85lebaront2 Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 Bradley, I hope you and yours are all safe! 🙏 Gary's daughter, my sister and Danny are all right around Charleston. I didn't really consider -where- you are in Georgia. So it looks like you are right between the powder blue (10.54) and deep violet (14.60) areas? Jim, my Grandson is in that area also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted August 11 Share Posted August 11 It was 102F today but still I noticed that as I was driving on the highway, at highway speeds the AC lost its effectiveness a lot... it became better at lower speeds... (The old belt was squealing like mad above 2K rpmp and I know I need a new belt but that's probably a different issue.) The dentside AC blower box, evaporator assembly sits under the hood and I know fresh air intake for the evaporator is under cabin... I know the fresh air intake opens when in AC setting... but still... Question is.... is it normal for AC on these trucks to not be very cold on the hottest days ?? On 80 degree days, I get vent temps as low as 45F... but when its 95 or higher especially after running a while I can't seem to go below 70F. The AC belt that was on there was the wrong one. It had a 63" belt (Gates 9630) and no wonder the AC compressor was pushed all the way out on adjustment and still loose... Autozone had the Duralast 17620 that put the compressor where it needed to be and fixed the squealing noise at very low idle speed. TBD if the high RPM highway noise also goes away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 Bradley, I hope you and yours are all safe! 🙏 Gary's daughter, my sister and Danny are all right around Charleston. I didn't really consider -where- you are in Georgia. So it looks like you are right between the powder blue (10.54) and deep violet (14.60) areas? I'm doing, anyway. And yes between the blue and purple. Zip code 30410 if Gary want to put me on the map. Truck is untouched. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 12 Author Share Posted August 12 I'm doing, anyway. And yes between the blue and purple. Zip code 30410 if Gary want to put me on the map. Truck is untouched. You are now on the map, Bradley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 I'm doing, anyway. And yes between the blue and purple. Zip code 30410 if Gary want to put me on the map. Truck is untouched. Glad to hear from you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ifitaintbroke Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 Glad to hear from you! Glad to be back. I'll post some on my other projects, when I have time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 There should never be a check valve in the vacuum advance, just a restriction to provide some hysteresis so the timing doesn't jump around. Gary has a point about even some new modules don't have functional ignition retard. I believe he showed with his oscilloscope that applying power created a 1ms delay, which worked out to 4ish degrees of crank rotation. A bound up advance plate would make sense, but I can't see that changing one fully charged battery for another making a bit of difference. Except that the time spent with the hood open, screwing around with cables and hold down allows the starter a chance to cool off. Stopping the heat from the headers in the first place is going to do more for the life of the starter than anything else. I found a cure for my “heat soak” problem, but only works on my bronco. All I have been doing is before turning off the engine, I’m turning off the frame mount fuel pump (I have a switch near the steering column for it) allowing the fuel in the bowl to partially empty. And of course turn on the pump and let it run a couple of seconds before cranking. It has completely cured the heat soak problem. If I can mimic this function on my stock hot fuel handling system on Big Blue 2WD that would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 I found a cure for my “heat soak” problem, but only works on my bronco. All I have been doing is before turning off the engine, I’m turning off the frame mount fuel pump (I have a switch near the steering column for it) allowing the fuel in the bowl to partially empty. And of course turn on the pump and let it run a couple of seconds before cranking. It has completely cured the heat soak problem. If I can mimic this function on my stock hot fuel handling system on Big Blue 2WD that would be great. Easy enough Kick the inertia switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 Easy enough Kick the inertia switch. Great idea 💡 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted August 12 Share Posted August 12 Great idea 💡 this seems very similar in theory to modern trucks having the fpr cycle for two seconds or so to repressurize the fuel rail before starting the engine. with a carburetor being vented atmospherically, fuel vaporizes and dries out just sitting still. add summer heat in Texas. add heat from a 460 sized 200 plus degree heater and low carb fuel is certainty. with an electric pump a very simple mod is quite easy. adding a discrete "momentary contact" switch to bypass the key switch to run the tank pump a few seconds on demand does this same thing. the factory wants to only operate by the key for a few reasons, so they triggered it by the ecu via the fpr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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