Danny G Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 Dang man. Glad you got out relatively unscathed. Sounds like the yard needs to revamp their electrification plan..... pretty soon they will be recycling EVs and those suckers don't go easy on unwanted volts An ESD event/zap can destroy batteries/electronics... there is built in ESD protection but after an accident, on a salvage vehicle I wouldn't trust anything The all metal door handle and door of that F-250 took that 7000 volts like a champ. Idk if it's 7KVDC per wire or for the system. If it's the wire I took 21K. Not sure the amperage on those but it was enough to give me a sunburn on my hand where it exited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 Dang man. Glad you got out relatively unscathed. Sounds like the yard needs to revamp their electrification plan..... pretty soon they will be recycling EVs and those suckers don't go easy on unwanted volts An ESD event/zap can destroy batteries/electronics... there is built in ESD protection but after an accident, on a salvage vehicle I wouldn't trust anything My baby brother's department refuses to impound any EV's because of state mandate on separation. Hitting a charged fence when sweaty is a sure fire way to wake you up and pay attention! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 Ok waiting on a hospital bed but feel more coherent. I pulled the PD box from the blue 1995 F250 but that truck looked like it was in a flood. I went to grab the cowl but I couldn't convince the wipers to come off. it has the 460 motor looks like. The seats were no good. I wanted to grab the visors but the ER visit cut that short. That sent me to the White 1997 F-250 the windshield was out and I grabbed the cowl from this one. No pictures yet. It's not in as good shape as the blue one but I'll her it out. I also bent it a bit when I rushed to close my tailgate. I left the dang cowl seal on the ground when I left. I grabbed this distribution box as well and discarded the rust water flooded one of the blue F-250. The seats were no go, wet and smelled like reefer. Took pictures of the vin and door tag for posterity. Rest in pieces F-250. The door In was holding when I backed into that zappy fence. Fun fact the plugs in the footwell on this 1997 are not metal with screws they are rubber. Here is the part number. This one tore on me. Disappointed in the 1984 as it didn't have much to give up. It was already raided. I have to go back because the Driver A Pillar Non-Headliner trim was not cracked. I took the radio bezel adapter that was in there. Why not. It had a different style coolant reservoir. This is the same.atyle you can buy brand new from Dennis Carpenter. Also why not, here's the jack. It has a rubber neck. Not sure if it's stock. I may go get it and start a Ford jack collection. The seats were the big interest on this one unfortunately it was a welded in custom set up. For posterity, Rest in pieces 1984 F150: I took that quickly as I was heading out, struggling to breathe but got the tag lol. Only '87-'91 cowls fit. There's a body line change between aeronose and obs.... Not the part number, but the engineering number. You can cross in the MPC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 Okay, did some more looking this morning to see whats up with this thing. I took it out for a quick spin after checking the cap and rotor, those look good but the distributor shaft has a LOT of side to side and up and down wiggle to it and the rotor can wiggle all over the place because of it and I don't remember it being like that when it was new. Today is much cooler and more humid and it starts randomly misfiring at 2500 under load and gets worse the higher it revs. I checked the DS II module (OLD) and its becoming gooey underneath so I changed the module to my good spare for a test and the problem got a bit better. Thinking its either that distributor, wires or sparkplugs at this point. I don't remember it doing this the couple of times I initially ran it to 3000 and 3500 once when I first got it running, so something is failing. I took my dad for a ride to see what he thinks, and the way it acts up is like when ignition points are floating/bouncing on a points and condenser system. I'll put my old cap and wires back on tomorrow to see if that fixes it. If the distributor shaft has slop you know where the problem is. I don't ever use anything but V-power copper plugs. They always work fine, don't cost much and don't have the bad reputation platinum and iridium plugs do. But I'm not trying to malign them, I have no empirical data. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 If the distributor shaft has slop you know where the problem is. I don't ever use anything but V-power copper plugs. They always work fine, don't cost much and don't have the bad reputation platinum and iridium plugs do. But I'm not trying to malign them, I have no empirical data. Here's a short clip I got this morning of the distributor shaft. I think it's junk, what do you think? I've used the NGK G power plugs on quite a few modern EFI vehicles with great success but this is my first time using them on a carbureted application with an older electronic ignition. You'd think if it were the plugs it wouldn't idle dead smooth and have great response revving it in park, but who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 Here's a short clip I got this morning of the distributor shaft. I think it's junk, what do you think? I've used the NGK G power plugs on quite a few modern EFI vehicles with great success but this is my first time using them on a carbureted application with an older electronic ignition. You'd think if it were the plugs it wouldn't idle dead smooth and have great response revving it in park, but who knows. I'd say it needs a new bushing at the least. Pull it and take a look at the gear too! Something isn't right in there. 🙄 Like I said, I don't have any experience with precious metal plugs in these old V-8's I'm not trying to say they're the problem, but I like to eliminate possibilities. I KNOW the V-powers work and come correctly gapped. They're all I use these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 I'd say it needs a new bushing at the least. Pull it and take a look at the gear too! Something isn't right in there. 🙄 Like I said, I don't have any experience with precious metal plugs in these old V-8's I'm not trying to say they're the problem, but I like to eliminate possibilities. I KNOW the V-powers work and come correctly gapped. They're all I use these days. Gear was fine when I put it in. The actual distributor shaft felt good, but the centrifugal advance part that slips over the main shaft sure is wasted. This was a NEW cardone distributor from about 2016, not sure I want to buy another one of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 Gear was fine when I put it in. The actual distributor shaft felt good, but the centrifugal advance part that slips over the main shaft sure is wasted. This was a NEW cardone distributor from about 2016, not sure I want to buy another one of those. Ah, okay I'm looking at my phone without glasses. So you're jiggling around the plate, and not the reluctor? How many miles would you estimate got put on that distributor in the past 8 years? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 Ah, okay I'm looking at my phone without glasses. So you're jiggling around the plate, and not the reluctor? How many miles would you estimate got put on that distributor in the past 8 years? I was jiggling around the advance slot piece that the reluctor presses onto and the rotor pushes onto. It all wiggles badly, but the main shaft that goes through the distributor body and out to the gear felt good. When the rotor is installed and I wiggle it, the end of the rotor moves around a ton. Just odd how it was never a problem with the old engine. I think hat distributor has about 18,000 miles on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 I was jiggling around the advance slot piece that the reluctor presses onto and the rotor pushes onto. It all wiggles badly, but the main shaft that goes through the distributor body and out to the gear felt good. When the rotor is installed and I wiggle it, the end of the rotor moves around a ton. Just odd how it was never a problem with the old engine. I think hat distributor has about 18,000 miles on it. I think the air gap is constantly changing and there may be a shaft speed where there is a harmonic, or where centrifugal force (from an out of balance rotor???) may cause spark to scatter or be lost. Is there any sign that the reluctor has actually touched the pickup? You might try covering the pickup surface with permanent marker. If something actually touches, that's going to trigger spark, as surely as rapping the distributor with a screwdriver handle will cause a spark. There's a whole section on testing and limits for DS-II. I'd posted it back on FTE a few times, but don't have that computer anymore.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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