FordFETruck Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Does anyone know how to remove the plastic piece that I’m touching in that picture ? The horn ring is off… but can’t figure out what needs to come off next. Everything from there seems permanent but somehow it was assembled The one on my Bronco is cracked and i’d like to replace it with the bullnose spare that I have… Got the carb cheater setup installed today minus the oxygen sensor, had to order the pigtail extension for it but tested everything else. I noticed this engine breaks up past 3500 RPM and pops out the exhaust when it does it, it sounds like its hitting a rev limiter. At first I thought it was the rev limiter on the carb cheater so I changed the setting and even unplugged the carb cheater and drove it and it's not it. I did notice if I hold first gear and let it rev up with minimal throttle it doesn't really do it but as soon as the secondaries open up it breaks up. It'll rev through it but its not happy about it. I noticed the AFR was in the 13.5 range when it did this with secondaries opening. Too lean? I had to downjet the secondaries quite a bit with the old engine and the second to last drive with the old engine I ran it to 5000 and it didn't do this. Same distributor, coil, DS II module, only thing different are sparkplugs, wires, cap and rotor but all are high quality parts and it runs perfectly below 3500. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Got the carb cheater setup installed today minus the oxygen sensor, had to order the pigtail extension for it but tested everything else. I noticed this engine breaks up past 3500 RPM and pops out the exhaust when it does it, it sounds like its hitting a rev limiter. At first I thought it was the rev limiter on the carb cheater so I changed the setting and even unplugged the carb cheater and drove it and it's not it. I did notice if I hold first gear and let it rev up with minimal throttle it doesn't really do it but as soon as the secondaries open up it breaks up. It'll rev through it but its not happy about it. I noticed the AFR was in the 13.5 range when it did this with secondaries opening. Too lean? I had to downjet the secondaries quite a bit with the old engine and the second to last drive with the old engine I ran it to 5000 and it didn't do this. Same distributor, coil, DS II module, only thing different are sparkplugs, wires, cap and rotor but all are high quality parts and it runs perfectly below 3500. Any ideas? I'm not sure since the carb cheater is now a new variable but if the secondaries open too soon it is not going to be smooth. the secondaries rely on the primaries being rich enough to allow for a good transition sans accelerator pump. I need to do a bit more research on this carb cheater. currently deciding which way to go with one of my own as it runs beautifully yet lacks grunt to avoid downshifting on even modest hills. highway acceleration is a bit lacking also. secondary opening helps but still sounds hollow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 I'm not sure since the carb cheater is now a new variable but if the secondaries open too soon it is not going to be smooth. the secondaries rely on the primaries being rich enough to allow for a good transition sans accelerator pump. I need to do a bit more research on this carb cheater. currently deciding which way to go with one of my own as it runs beautifully yet lacks grunt to avoid downshifting on even modest hills. highway acceleration is a bit lacking also. secondary opening helps but still sounds hollow Don't think it's the carb cheater as it behaved the same with it turns completely off. I suppose I should check the fuel pressure it's a new pump and has an adjustable regulator installed in the system, might be low as the old pump out out a ton of pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Don't think it's the carb cheater as it behaved the same with it turns completely off. I suppose I should check the fuel pressure it's a new pump and has an adjustable regulator installed in the system, might be low as the old pump out out a ton of pressure. Would you starve for fuel under mild acceleration? Maybe you have different vacuum with this cam and the secondaries are causing a bog? Do you have a quick change cap and selection of springs? (assuming Holley) Still sounds like ignition. Is the distributor shaft loose? Is the cam gear good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Would you starve for fuel under mild acceleration? Maybe you have different vacuum with this cam and the secondaries are causing a bog? Do you have a quick change cap and selection of springs? (assuming Holley) Still sounds like ignition. Is the distributor shaft loose? Is the cam gear good? Mild acceleration is great, actually everything is great until about 3500 RPM then it starts acting up. Distributor is in great shape, it doesn't have many miles on it and there was absolutely nothing wrong with it when I took it out of the old engine. Vacuum is the same as the old engine, 18-20" at idle. Pretty sure I have a brown spring in the secondaries. I am 5 jet sizes lean from stock on the secondaries, that old engine just couldn't handle the fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 All these trucks ever got were single stage enamels. At some point metallics got a clear coat, over that. Rust-oleum used to be acid primer (hence, oleum!) and they still make a darkish chromate green looking self etching primer. It also used to be made with fish oil, which would wick into almost everywhere. I just use the bonus size industrial enamel rattle bombs for stuff like this. I didn't realize that. I've seen some really nice rattle can jobs done win Rust-Oleum single stage. I did my trailer in Metallic blue with 2k clear but then the fenders in single stage white. The finish came out pretty amazing. The 86 cab interior was all single stage Rust-Oleum white automotive paint. That dull gloss was nice honestly. I'm going to do a test spot directly on the Ford primer and see how well it holds up. If it works well I'll just use the primer on the rusted/bare metal spots then hit with the safety red. The floor pan is going to get Duplicolor truck bed liner after it's cleaned up. That's supposed to prevent rust where the undercoating doesn't per the website. Should make a nice base layer for deadener and carpet. My new AC evap core came in from Rock Auto. Typically FedEx cares less delivery. Has a dent in the top plate down to the plate below and bottom plate is bent up a bit. I don't really want to go through the hassle to exchange it, but I also don't want to have a leaky core in 3 weeks. Am I just worrying too much over nothing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Mild acceleration is great, actually everything is great until about 3500 RPM then it starts acting up. Distributor is in great shape, it doesn't have many miles on it and there was absolutely nothing wrong with it when I took it out of the old engine. Vacuum is the same as the old engine, 18-20" at idle. Pretty sure I have a brown spring in the secondaries. I am 5 jet sizes lean from stock on the secondaries, that old engine just couldn't handle the fuel. But "it feels like a rev limiter"? Have you ohmed the distributor pickup and coil? Obviously there's no tired valve springs in your new engine, and float doesn't feel the same as spark dropping out. I don't really see 13.5:1 being low under mild acceleration, but I don't know your engine like you do. You should see how crazy lean a stock 4180 can get and H.O.'s seem fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 My new AC evap core came in from Rock Auto. Typically FedEx cares less delivery. Has a dent in the top plate down to the plate below and bottom plate is bent up a bit. I don't really want to go through the hassle to exchange it, but I also don't want to have a leaky core in 3 weeks. Am I just worrying too much over nothing? I'd run it. None of that looks like the core is compromised at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 But "it feels like a rev limiter"? Have you ohmed the distributor pickup and coil? Obviously there's no tired valve springs in your new engine, and float doesn't feel the same as spark dropping out. I don't really see 13.5:1 being low under mild acceleration, but I don't know your engine like you do. You should see how crazy lean a stock 4180 can get and H.O.'s seem fine. Yeah how it sounds and acts sounds like when you hit a rev limiter, it starts popping and snorting although it will keep revving through it but not very well. I gave up on it for a bit, took a rest and got some food. I'll OHM the coil and pickup in a bit. The old engine WOT was around 12-12.5:1. I thought about possible valve float but the springs that came with those heads are a bit stiffer than what the cam calls for, so I highly doubt that's it. I did 1 full turn on the lifter preload and wasn't nowhere even near the max travel for the plungers in the lifters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Yeah how it sounds and acts sounds like when you hit a rev limiter, it starts popping and snorting although it will keep revving through it but not very well. I gave up on it for a bit, took a rest and got some food. I'll OHM the coil and pickup in a bit. The old engine WOT was around 12-12.5:1. I thought about possible valve float but the springs that came with those heads are a bit stiffer than what the cam calls for, so I highly doubt that's it. I did 1 full turn on the lifter preload and wasn't nowhere even near the max travel for the plungers in the lifters. is there a thick film ignition module in the mix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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