viven44 Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 The HFH system underwent a couple of changes. In the beginning I think the power switched at the actual switch, so there wasn't a selector relay. The six port valve changed too. Beginning in '85 ALL trucks got the bigger tank bing, because the 5.0 EFI pump/sender assembly had to fit in the tank. In '87 the filler necks changed, and fuel went down the center with a annular/circumferential vent helping deal with filling "click off" These tanks have no vent support ring. Yep I recall now... they tweaked around how the pumps were being controlled Just looked at the 85 vs 86 EVTM Until 85, they had a separate tank selector relay and used a 4 pin in-cab switch to control that relay. You can still find this 4 pin switch I believe... In 86, they got rid of the tank selector relay, and used a 6 pin in-cab switch to send power to the pumps directly. I recall now that this switch is impossible to find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Yep I recall now... they tweaked around how the pumps were being controlled Just looked at the 85 vs 86 EVTM Until 85, they had a separate tank selector relay and used a 4 pin in-cab switch to control that relay. You can still find this 4 pin switch I believe... In 86, they got rid of the tank selector relay, and used a 6 pin in-cab switch to send power to the pumps directly. I recall now that this switch is impossible to find. Imagine how much fun it is for me, with my 1 year wonder mechanical pump setup? 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Yep I recall now... they tweaked around how the pumps were being controlled Just looked at the 85 vs 86 EVTM Until 85, they had a separate tank selector relay and used a 4 pin in-cab switch to control that relay. You can still find this 4 pin switch I believe... In 86, they got rid of the tank selector relay, and used a 6 pin in-cab switch to send power to the pumps directly. I recall now that this switch is impossible to find. This is what I drew up when I was working it. Gives me a baseline to remember what was there and to create a new wire diagram for the new harnesses/relay/fuse box. Pin 3 on that 4 terminal has a black and the burned up wire in it. May be pink and black hash like the other. Have to keep in mind all this wiring has been hacked up and modified/tapped/bypassed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 This is what I drew up when I was working it. Gives me a baseline to remember what was there and to create a new wire diagram for the new harnesses/relay/fuse box. Pin 3 on that 4 terminal has a black and the burned up wire in it. May be pink and black hash like the other. Have to keep in mind all this wiring has been hacked up and modified/tapped/bypassed. Well... Murphy showed up today. This morning I got up with plan to clean the firewall and then start installing the sound deadeners and insulation. Goal being to keep the truck as close to operational during this whole process lol. Well. It appears that all the paint here is just over spray I cleaned it with waterless wash to get the grime off then I went to use an alcohol pad and it came off so easy I was having a harder time playing a scratch off lottery ticket at SeaTac airport Friday. So now I'm left with pretty grey primer. My dilemma is should I just touch up any rust spots and put the sound deadener directly on the primer? Or do I need to at least hit it with some single stage rattle can automotive paint like Rust-Oleum makes? None of this will be visible it's going under layers of butyl mastic and foam, but I was always taught Primer protects metal, paint protects primer, clear coat protects paint. My wife was like wow that shiny grey paint looks good lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 Well... Murphy showed up today. This morning I got up with plan to clean the firewall and then start installing the sound deadeners and insulation. Goal being to keep the truck as close to operational during this whole process lol. Well. It appears that all the paint here is just over spray I cleaned it with waterless wash to get the grime off then I went to use an alcohol pad and it came off so easy I was having a harder time playing a scratch off lottery ticket at SeaTac airport Friday. So now I'm left with pretty grey primer. My dilemma is should I just touch up any rust spots and put the sound deadener directly on the primer? Or do I need to at least hit it with some single stage rattle can automotive paint like Rust-Oleum makes? None of this will be visible it's going under layers of butyl mastic and foam, but I was always taught Primer protects metal, paint protects primer, clear coat protects paint. My wife was like wow that shiny grey paint looks good lol. If it were me (and I know it isn't) I would hit it with a heavy wet coat of Rust-oleum red (your choice, I use OSHA Safety Red) and hope it wicks in and around any seams and bare spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 If it were me (and I know it isn't) I would hit it with a heavy wet coat of Rust-oleum red (your choice, I use OSHA Safety Red) and hope it wicks in and around any seams and bare spots. Funny you mentioned that specific paint because I have a new can of this in the house 😂 I bought it like 2 weeks ago along with some Hunter green to do some yard tool painting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 If it were me (and I know it isn't) I would hit it with a heavy wet coat of Rust-oleum red (your choice, I use OSHA Safety Red) and hope it wicks in and around any seams and bare spots. I think I'm going to borrow a sealant removal wheel from work tomorrow and just peel back all this old seam seal as well. The couple of spot where they dropped seam seal seem to have rust under them in spots. I know some paints like Rust-Oleum don't play well with certain primers etc. Anywhere in other projects I have previously used corroseal or say Eastwood's rust encapsulator/frame coat then primed with Rust-Oleum auto primer and Rust-Oleum single stage (mostly areas that are not for show) the rust started staining through the paint. Granted now a days all I use on rust (if it doesn't fit in the ultrasonic Simple Green bath) is Phosphoric Acid /metal prep. Then wipe it down and give it a buff with a grey scotch pad before priming. I have some Rust-Oleum 2k primer and some Rust-Oleum flat grey automotive primer. I am going to reseal all the joints with either seam seal or polysulfide seal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 I think I'm going to borrow a sealant removal wheel from work tomorrow and just peel back all this old seam seal as well. The couple of spot where they dropped seam seal seem to have rust under them in spots. I know some paints like Rust-Oleum don't play well with certain primers etc. Anywhere in other projects I have previously used corroseal or say Eastwood's rust encapsulator/frame coat then primed with Rust-Oleum auto primer and Rust-Oleum single stage (mostly areas that are not for show) the rust started staining through the paint. Granted now a days all I use on rust (if it doesn't fit in the ultrasonic Simple Green bath) is Phosphoric Acid /metal prep. Then wipe it down and give it a buff with a grey scotch pad before priming. I have some Rust-Oleum 2k primer and some Rust-Oleum flat grey automotive primer. I am going to reseal all the joints with either seam seal or polysulfide seal All these trucks ever got were single stage enamels. At some point metallics got a clear coat, over that. Rust-oleum used to be acid primer (hence, oleum!) and they still make a darkish chromate green looking self etching primer. It also used to be made with fish oil, which would wick into almost everywhere. I just use the bonus size industrial enamel rattle bombs for stuff like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 All these trucks ever got were single stage enamels. At some point metallics got a clear coat, over that. Rust-oleum used to be acid primer (hence, oleum!) and they still make a darkish chromate green looking self etching primer. It also used to be made with fish oil, which would wick into almost everywhere. I just use the bonus size industrial enamel rattle bombs for stuff like this. I didn't realize that. I've seen some really nice rattle can jobs done win Rust-Oleum single stage. I did my trailer in Metallic blue with 2k clear but then the fenders in single stage white. The finish came out pretty amazing. The 86 cab interior was all single stage Rust-Oleum white automotive paint. That dull gloss was nice honestly. I'm going to do a test spot directly on the Ford primer and see how well it holds up. If it works well I'll just use the primer on the rusted/bare metal spots then hit with the safety red. The floor pan is going to get Duplicolor truck bed liner after it's cleaned up. That's supposed to prevent rust where the undercoating doesn't per the website. Should make a nice base layer for deadener and carpet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 All these trucks ever got were single stage enamels. At some point metallics got a clear coat, over that. Rust-oleum used to be acid primer (hence, oleum!) and they still make a darkish chromate green looking self etching primer. It also used to be made with fish oil, which would wick into almost everywhere. I just use the bonus size industrial enamel rattle bombs for stuff like this. I didn't realize that. I've seen some really nice rattle can jobs done win Rust-Oleum single stage. I did my trailer in Metallic blue with 2k clear but then the fenders in single stage white. The finish came out pretty amazing. The 86 cab interior was all single stage Rust-Oleum white automotive paint. That dull gloss was nice honestly. I'm going to do a test spot directly on the Ford primer and see how well it holds up. If it works well I'll just use the primer on the rusted/bare metal spots then hit with the safety red. The floor pan is going to get Duplicolor truck bed liner after it's cleaned up. That's supposed to prevent rust where the undercoating doesn't per the website. Should make a nice base layer for deadener and carpet. Does anyone know how to remove the plastic piece that I’m touching in that picture ? The horn ring is off… but can’t figure out what needs to come off next. Everything from there seems permanent but somehow it was assembled The one on my Bronco is cracked and i’d like to replace it with the bullnose spare that I have… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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