FordFETruck Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 Yeah, I've been following the progression of this device for a while, from it's earliest days. I want to get one for the 390 truck. I did get about half the A/C hoses routed and figured out, just got to finalize a couple things before cutting. Once cut, I'm commited to where ever they land.... The comp and dryer aren't actually mounted yet, but tose won't take long. If all goes well, I can finalize the hose lenght and routing, along with clocking/marking the fittings in order to take them to be crimped. I've been watching that guys videos for probably 10 or 11 years. I was one of the first people to put up a video about the Summit racing 4 barrel carburetors, he saw it and started buying them and doing videos with them as well. On another note, I took the truck to work and back today. Came home on the freeway which was its first time on the freeway with the new engine and transmission. The transmission before the rebuild was definitely slipping at higher speeds because I lost about 150-200 RPM cruising at 60 MPH after the rebuild, with a high stall converter even. The only clutches that had any wear in that trans were the forward clutches. It also makes sense why now when its warmed up and I come to a stop I don't feel this slack like thud bang noise and feeling when I hit the gas to take off. I bet the forward clutch was bleeding off at hot idle and re-engaging when I stepped on the gas with the increased line pressure. Engine ran like a champ on the highway, the whole truck was smoother and quieter. I guess not having a bent connecting rod helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 11 Author Share Posted July 11 I've been watching that guys videos for probably 10 or 11 years. I was one of the first people to put up a video about the Summit racing 4 barrel carburetors, he saw it and started buying them and doing videos with them as well. On another note, I took the truck to work and back today. Came home on the freeway which was its first time on the freeway with the new engine and transmission. The transmission before the rebuild was definitely slipping at higher speeds because I lost about 150-200 RPM cruising at 60 MPH after the rebuild, with a high stall converter even. The only clutches that had any wear in that trans were the forward clutches. It also makes sense why now when its warmed up and I come to a stop I don't feel this slack like thud bang noise and feeling when I hit the gas to take off. I bet the forward clutch was bleeding off at hot idle and re-engaging when I stepped on the gas with the increased line pressure. Engine ran like a champ on the highway, the whole truck was smoother and quieter. I guess not having a bent connecting rod helps Makes sense on both the thud and the smoothness of the engine. Well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 Makes sense on both the thud and the smoothness of the engine. Well done! Thanks Gary! Sure feels good to have that ticking time bomb off my back. I also noticed the exhaust smells much cleaner than the old engine ever did even though the idle AFR is pretty rich and I need to adjust it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 11 Author Share Posted July 11 Thanks Gary! Sure feels good to have that ticking time bomb off my back. I also noticed the exhaust smells much cleaner than the old engine ever did even though the idle AFR is pretty rich and I need to adjust it. As for what I did to my truck today, I drove Big Blue and suddenly realized that the voltmeter, the one that Rocketman converted from an ammeter, was working! I originally thought that I'd not gotten the connector fully clicked into the back of the cluster, but then I realized that what I'd done was to let the needle touch the bottom peg while the paint I'd just put on the needle was wet. It was stuck. And with my grandtwins coming in a week I didn't want to tear the dash apart, so I drove it hoping that the needle would break loose. And it did! Also, I noticed that the new LRC regulator is working properly. It used to be that the alternator belt chirped on startup but it doesn't now. Plus I can watch the voltmeter and see the voltage start climbing a couple of seconds after the startup. The meter is set for 12.8v to be in the center and 14.4v to be the top of the scale. After the start the needle is right on the center mark and a couple of seconds later it smoothly goes up to the top mark when the engine is cold. And after the engine gets up to temp the regulator starts cutting the voltage back until it gets to 13.6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 As for what I did to my truck today, I drove Big Blue and suddenly realized that the voltmeter, the one that Rocketman converted from an ammeter, was working! I originally thought that I'd not gotten the connector fully clicked into the back of the cluster, but then I realized that what I'd done was to let the needle touch the bottom peg while the paint I'd just put on the needle was wet. It was stuck. And with my grandtwins coming in a week I didn't want to tear the dash apart, so I drove it hoping that the needle would break loose. And it did! Also, I noticed that the new LRC regulator is working properly. It used to be that the alternator belt chirped on startup but it doesn't now. Plus I can watch the voltmeter and see the voltage start climbing a couple of seconds after the startup. The meter is set for 12.8v to be in the center and 14.4v to be the top of the scale. After the start the needle is right on the center mark and a couple of seconds later it smoothly goes up to the top mark when the engine is cold. And after the engine gets up to temp the regulator starts cutting the voltage back until it gets to 13.6. We can both attest that LRC is a good thing! Will the whole family be back? Or are Holly & TJ doing their own thing? What's the next step with "that French truck"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 11 Author Share Posted July 11 We can both attest that LRC is a good thing! Will the whole family be back? Or are Holly & TJ doing their own thing? What's the next step with "that French truck"? Yes, LRC is a good thing. Holly & the twins are coming a week from today. Don't know what TJ is doing, but perhaps he will work on Lil' Blue? The plan on the French truck, aka Ugly Green, is that the wheels and tires I ordered today will get put on by Ian and I. Then we'll push the truck backwards out of the car port into the 11' space between the fence and the shop and use Big Blue's winch to pull it to the front of the shop. We will push it into the shop by hand and pull the 216.5 out and drop the 235 in. Then we will roll it out of the shop, stick a hose in the radiator, connect Big Blue's aux battery to the starter and ignition, and crank it over. Oh, and drop a hose from the fuel pump into a 5 gallon can. Which reminds me, maybe I should buy new radiator hoses for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 As for what I did to my truck today, I drove Big Blue and suddenly realized that the voltmeter, the one that Rocketman converted from an ammeter, was working! I originally thought that I'd not gotten the connector fully clicked into the back of the cluster, but then I realized that what I'd done was to let the needle touch the bottom peg while the paint I'd just put on the needle was wet. It was stuck. And with my grandtwins coming in a week I didn't want to tear the dash apart, so I drove it hoping that the needle would break loose. And it did! Also, I noticed that the new LRC regulator is working properly. It used to be that the alternator belt chirped on startup but it doesn't now. Plus I can watch the voltmeter and see the voltage start climbing a couple of seconds after the startup. The meter is set for 12.8v to be in the center and 14.4v to be the top of the scale. After the start the needle is right on the center mark and a couple of seconds later it smoothly goes up to the top mark when the engine is cold. And after the engine gets up to temp the regulator starts cutting the voltage back until it gets to 13.6. Speaking of instrument clusters. The gauges in my truck are becoming a bit erratic especially with the headlights on and the engine block to firewall ground is good and clean. Any recommendations for a ICVR? Gary, didn't you make some of your own a while back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 Speaking of instrument clusters. The gauges in my truck are becoming a bit erratic especially with the headlights on and the engine block to firewall ground is good and clean. Any recommendations for a ICVR? Gary, didn't you make some of your own a while back? Gary used a Swad-J and a 9V battery connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 12 Author Share Posted July 12 Gary used a Swad-J and a 9V battery connector. Yes, as explained on the page at Documentation/Electrical/ICVR. But there's a link on that page to Dennis Carpenter where he's selling a plug-in replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 12 Share Posted July 12 Yes, as explained on the page at Documentation/Electrical/ICVR. But there's a link on that page to Dennis Carpenter where he's selling a plug-in replacement. Dennis passed away a while back.... I'm pretty sure I posted a link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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