WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[viven44]

Once you go to EFI the factory intake is aluminum. As Jim says, good gaskets and I will add, proper torque and sequence.

I didn’t know the factory intake on the EFI 460s was aluminum but that makes sense

[Gary Lewis]

I didn’t know the factory intake on the EFI 460s was aluminum but that makes sense

Here's Big Blue's after powder coating:

[viven44]

One thing I noticed was with cast iron heads and intake, the bolts only require 1 maybe 2 re torques and they never seem to budge ever again. I've had to re torque the intake and exhaust 5-6 times with aluminum. If you guys think the 460 intake is heavy, try fitting this one

That 390 intake is infamous !! I learned about that monstrosity in this episode. If you watch the 1-2 minute mark

[Gary Lewis]

That 390 intake is infamous !!

I don't know about that. I installed a 4bbl one by myself on the 390 in my '72 F250. That was when you could sit IN the engine compartment. And I was ~25, so 1/3 my current age and probably 3 times stronger.

But I had no leaks of any kind. Looking back on it I'm amazed.

[FordFETruck]

That 390 intake is infamous !!

I don't know about that. I installed a 4bbl one by myself on the 390 in my '72 F250. That was when you could sit IN the engine compartment. And I was ~25, so 1/3 my current age and probably 3 times stronger.

But I had no leaks of any kind. Looking back on it I'm amazed.

I had to lift that intake on and off the engine probably 5 times fitting and measuring, took it to the machine shop, had .047" milled off total and re fit it, cleaned it, installed it a final time on the engine stand. I bet the machine shop just LOVED putting that thing in their mill or whatever they used to machine it. Probably why it was $250 to have it milled

[mat in tn]

Mat, I had a similar issue with the C6 in my 1977 F150 that I had a Camper Special 390 in. First time I really got on it, it floated the valves, it was built by an AAMCO shop in payment for a K4C025 M-B transmissiom I built for them. Core was apparently from a high perfofmance 390 or 428. They put a heavier weight governor in it, and no over rev shifts, but occasionaly it would not downshift at a stop. A bottle of Trans-Medic solved that.

today I drove the f250 to the farm with the riding mower, but I delivered an aod to the shop first and picked up the trailer with the roller frame on it to store at the farm till ready. (shop landlord is all about cleaning up right now) so I am working with him. anyway, the truck drove ok but weak. runs great without trailer but felt like dragging brakes with it. not normal. here is the thing. while connecting the modulator vacuum lines back up, I noticed a vacuum tree port that has been uncapped for some time, I guess. I capped it then re tuned the carb idle mixture screws. as I expect that I have tuned it to a vacuum leak. at this time, I was able to lower the base idle screw also. starts and runs great! just no power. this tells me that the 2150 is very lean through the venturi that I was covering with added idle mixture.

Bill, do you have any tips for me to tweak a little more power out of this carb. I'm really not wanting this tugboat to be a build.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I had to lift that intake on and off the engine probably 5 times fitting and measuring, took it to the machine shop, had .047" milled off total and re fit it, cleaned it, installed it a final time on the engine stand. I bet the machine shop just LOVED putting that thing in their mill or whatever they used to machine it. Probably why it was $250 to have it milled

There are no crank journals or anything to line up an intake with, and you have to mill exactly the same off both sides, so Pythagoras sticks his ugly head in there too.

Basically a pita to fixture and mill, even with a Storm or other block & head machine.

[ArdWrknTrk]

today I drove the f250 to the farm with the riding mower, but I delivered an aod to the shop first and picked up the trailer with the roller frame on it to store at the farm till ready. (shop landlord is all about cleaning up right now) so I am working with him. anyway, the truck drove ok but weak. runs great without trailer but felt like dragging brakes with it. not normal. here is the thing. while connecting the modulator vacuum lines back up, I noticed a vacuum tree port that has been uncapped for some time, I guess. I capped it then re tuned the carb idle mixture screws. as I expect that I have tuned it to a vacuum leak. at this time, I was able to lower the base idle screw also. starts and runs great! just no power. this tells me that the 2150 is very lean through the venturi that I was covering with added idle mixture.

Bill, do you have any tips for me to tweak a little more power out of this carb. I'm really not wanting this tugboat to be a build.

We're tuning for a massive vacuum leak on every vehicle with a PCV system, anyhow....💡

But certainly the ability of the carb to get a proper booster signal and flow fuel is going to be overwhelmed at some point.

You did well, recognizing the symptoms and finding the cause, rather than trying to tune around it.

[mat in tn]

We're tuning for a massive vacuum leak on every vehicle with a PCV system, anyhow....💡

But certainly the ability of the carb to get a proper booster signal and flow fuel is going to be overwhelmed at some point.

You did well, recognizing the symptoms and finding the cause, rather than trying to tune around it.

with pcv, the pcv valve "should" close in low vacuum situations. at least restrict down almost closed. this is a rather small carb considering the engine size but I'm not sure this would have carried a camper this way.

[viven44]

I wish it was ready enough. Good enough for short distance/city driving. Its at a point where I could possibly drive it around 500 miles/year.

There is still the 9" rearend. Abused possibly from all that mudding.

1) Big ol clunk going into reverse. I can tell there is excessive backlash (pinion-ring possibly?)

2) Original tapered bearing seal is leaking slightly.

3) I can tell one of the axles (passenger rear) is slightly bent. I could see a wobble when I put the rear on jackstand and had it idling in gear.

I need to pull the axles and 3rd member, check ring pinion pattern. Adjust backlash.

I have ordered new axles, set20 bearing/seal, and 3rd member shim kit.. I have both a crush sleeve and solid spacers. Haven't decided which I'm going with.

This is more of what I did over the weekend but first time today I drove on the highway afterwards.

I replaced the rear axles on my 9" rear end with new US Gear ones (they were very reasonably priced) and pressed the new SET20 bearings on.

As mentioned before I decided to replace the axles because the old ones had a wobble on the driver side that I was able to observe with the rear end of the vehicle on a jackstand. The wobble is like the kind you would observe on a tire with a flat spot. I must add the bearings had slop as well, and the seal was leaking so it was just overdue.

The new axles / bearings have definitely made a difference for highway. It is very smooth now, no play in the bearings, and hopefully no leaks. Wanted to share this in case anyone was experiencing mild vibrations at highway speeds on a 9" setup.