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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Are you getting the modulator with the black stripe or the green stripe ? Supposedly trucks are to use the black strip modulator... but in my experience I haven't observed any difference trying out both. I found that the "rod" inside the modulator stuck out further with a green modulator.... green is what I ended up using on my bronco recently as it is more readily available...

My truck calls for the purple stripe modulator. The last one I put on was supposed to be a purple stripe part number but what showed up didn't have a stripe, it shifted way more aggressively than the previous purple stripe did, I had to back the adjustment way out.

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My truck calls for the purple stripe modulator. The last one I put on was supposed to be a purple stripe part number but what showed up didn't have a stripe, it shifted way more aggressively than the previous purple stripe did, I had to back the adjustment way out.

from what little explanations I was able to find I gleaned the green was the better choice. but then remembered that I have another c6 in stock so I'm going to try the one from it first. I might even be able to see a color on it.

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from what little explanations I was able to find I gleaned the green was the better choice. but then remembered that I have another c6 in stock so I'm going to try the one from it first. I might even be able to see a color on it.

I have been happy with the green one. I turned in the screw a good 2 turns in as well. It has firmed up the 1-2 shifts and 2-3 shifts and delayed it to over 2K rpm for me. I don't know if its coincidence, but the 2-1 downshifts are also very consistent.

This is what I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C8PA3C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

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I have been happy with the green one. I turned in the screw a good 2 turns in as well. It has firmed up the 1-2 shifts and 2-3 shifts and delayed it to over 2K rpm for me. I don't know if its coincidence, but the 2-1 downshifts are also very consistent.

This is what I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C8PA3C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I swapped in the modulator from the spare in the shop and it shifts great. and it does not leak. however, it does not always go back to first at a stop. a good lean on the throttle and it hits first noticeably. maybe an adjustment is in order.

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I have been happy with the green one. I turned in the screw a good 2 turns in as well. It has firmed up the 1-2 shifts and 2-3 shifts and delayed it to over 2K rpm for me. I don't know if its coincidence, but the 2-1 downshifts are also very consistent.

This is what I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C8PA3C?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I swapped in the modulator from the spare in the shop and it shifts great. and it does not leak. however, it does not always go back to first at a stop. a good lean on the throttle and it hits first noticeably. maybe an adjustment is in order. and I did notice a bit of a green stripe on the original.

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I swapped in the modulator from the spare in the shop and it shifts great. and it does not leak. however, it does not always go back to first at a stop. a good lean on the throttle and it hits first noticeably. maybe an adjustment is in order. and I did notice a bit of a green stripe on the original.

Mat, I had a similar issue with the C6 in my 1977 F150 that I had a Camper Special 390 in. First time I really got on it, it floated the valves, it was built by an AAMCO shop in payment for a K4C025 M-B transmissiom I built for them. Core was apparently from a high perfofmance 390 or 428. They put a heavier weight governor in it, and no over rev shifts, but occasionaly it would not downshift at a stop. A bottle of Trans-Medic solved that.

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Mat, I had a similar issue with the C6 in my 1977 F150 that I had a Camper Special 390 in. First time I really got on it, it floated the valves, it was built by an AAMCO shop in payment for a K4C025 M-B transmissiom I built for them. Core was apparently from a high perfofmance 390 or 428. They put a heavier weight governor in it, and no over rev shifts, but occasionaly it would not downshift at a stop. A bottle of Trans-Medic solved that.

My C6 does the same thing but usually only in colder weather when the trans is cold.

I opened the hood last night to get the belt numbers so I can order new belts and noticed it has consumed the coolant in the reservoir twice lately and it's not leaking or getting into the oil. Might be why I keep being weird smoke after sitting for a few days. I decided to order a different set of aluminum heads to put on the new engine and I'll fix up the Edelbrocks and put them back on the old engine when I go through it. I get the feeling the engine has a head gasket issue along with worn rings. Hopefully another couple weeks I can get started on putting the new engine in and rebuilding the transmission.

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My C6 does the same thing but usually only in colder weather when the trans is cold.

I opened the hood last night to get the belt numbers so I can order new belts and noticed it has consumed the coolant in the reservoir twice lately and it's not leaking or getting into the oil. Might be why I keep being weird smoke after sitting for a few days. I decided to order a different set of aluminum heads to put on the new engine and I'll fix up the Edelbrocks and put them back on the old engine when I go through it. I get the feeling the engine has a head gasket issue along with worn rings. Hopefully another couple weeks I can get started on putting the new engine in and rebuilding the transmission.

Might want to check your freeze (core) plugs, especially the one near the driver side exhaust. Those have a tendency to rot out from the outside due to being close to a heat source (corrosion is faster with heat).

I had a mysterious coolant loss on a 302 and it turned out to be that core plug that 'peed' when things were really hot and pressurized. I caught the truck 'peeing' one day after I parked it after driving a while... :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

I lost that same plug on a 351W after things got hot... but the loss was much more evident on the 351W.. it was pouring out on the driveway.

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Might want to check your freeze (core) plugs, especially the one near the driver side exhaust. Those have a tendency to rot out from the outside due to being close to a heat source (corrosion is faster with heat).

I had a mysterious coolant loss on a 302 and it turned out to be that core plug that 'peed' when things were really hot and pressurized. I caught the truck 'peeing' one day after I parked it after driving a while... :nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig:

I lost that same plug on a 351W after things got hot... but the loss was much more evident on the 351W.. it was pouring out on the driveway.

I pulled the engine in 2017 and replaced the freeze plugs, guarantee you they're not leaking. Pretty sure it burning it.

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I pulled the engine in 2017 and replaced the freeze plugs, guarantee you they're not leaking. Pretty sure it burning it.

Gotcha. Yes I agree with you in that case.

Do you mean burning through the head gasket or through the intake ? I assume there will be compression loss if its head gasket and over heating, but if the leak is small then maybe not.

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