BigBrother-84 Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 So there I was....realizing that body shop skills have an overlap with present wrapping skills. Well, there are some similarities: You’ll find a nice present when you’ll unwrap your truck. Getting ready to do some sanding and keeping the interior from getting covered. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n152475/20240427_110000.jpg Progress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 I also decided when I do the engine, I'm going to do the trans at the same time since it's almost 40 years old and has 253,000 miles on it. That’s what we call good stuff. 💪⚙️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted April 27 Share Posted April 27 I also decided when I do the engine, I'm going to do the trans at the same time since it's almost 40 years old and has 253,000 miles on it. That’s what we call good stuff. 💪⚙️ 11 years ago I put a shift kit and a new intermediate servo piston in it and adjusted the band. The old servo piston was the N code molded rubber type. The two sealing lips were totally worn off and the rest of it was as hard as plastic. It also had a broken 2-3? Accumulator spring causing soft shifts. I'm impressed it has never skipped a beat as I'm sure the rest of the seals are hard and worn as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 11 years ago I put a shift kit and a new intermediate servo piston in it and adjusted the band. The old servo piston was the N code molded rubber type. The two sealing lips were totally worn off and the rest of it was as hard as plastic. It also had a broken 2-3? Accumulator spring causing soft shifts. I'm impressed it has never skipped a beat as I'm sure the rest of the seals are hard and worn as well. Did the rear brakes on my 78 Bronco with the 9" rear end. I took out the semi-float to inspect... and put it back together. I was wondering how that bearing was to be loaded. Just about any axle (mostly heavy duty), or anything that involves a bearing so far I've taken apart needs the bearings to be loaded properly with an axle nut.... but I didn't notice any means to do that on the 9".. just 4 bolts to hold the semi-float axle in... "What am I missing?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 mixed results today. my trucks aod swap last fall did well yet a couple weeks ago it acted up. so, I pulled it this week to do a full evaluation of the trans. it worked when I did the swap, so I had not done a full reman at the time. first discovery was a failed bearing then the second, a cooked direct clutch. which led me to what else but the tv cable. carb end was off. I did not look for that first so it may have come off during trans removal. anyway, I chose this time for upgrades as well. all completed I reinstalled it and worked late and dialed tv cable pressures in before test drive. success. yet here is where I screwed up. my D.A. did not tighten the u joint straps! yup. threw the drive shaft in 100 yards of home. made a hell of a racket. then called for a tow. I'm realizing that I'm pushing myself as much as I did before I retired. I did not need it immediately, yet I think the kid in me wanted the win too much. or the producer in me wanted more production. either way I screwed up. it feels awkward to tell on myself yet cathartic at the same time. even bad experience is educating even if it makes you doubt yourself a bit. Sorry to hear that... when stuff like that happens. I just tell myself "can't win all the time!" and "nobody is perfect". After a little bit of self-doubt, a few "wins" usually takes care of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 .... "What am I missing?" Nothing. The 4 bolts are it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 .... "What am I missing?" Nothing. The 4 bolts are it. OK thanks. I got those 4 bolts torqued to about 45 ft-lbs... still not sure why I don't need to do the usual "torque to 'x' ft lbs while rotating axle and then loosen by ~1/3 turn procedure like a Dana 44 or Dana 60/70".... Don't understand how the bearing loading is controlled. On both sides I have a little bit of in-and-out play... really small but definitely present (both before and after messing with it)..... (Using tapered roller bearings by the way). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 OK thanks. I got those 4 bolts torqued to about 45 ft-lbs... still not sure why I don't need to do the usual "torque to 'x' ft lbs while rotating axle and then loosen by ~1/3 turn procedure like a Dana 44 or Dana 60/70".... Don't understand how the bearing loading is controlled. On both sides I have a little bit of in-and-out play... really small but definitely present (both before and after messing with it)..... (Using tapered roller bearings by the way). Here is a discussion from a few months ago where Pete Whitstone went through the same questions. He figured out that the bearing preload is set by the bearing races. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 Here is a discussion from a few months ago where Pete Whitstone went through the same questions. He figured out that the bearing preload is set by the bearing races. You can get laminated shims and just peel them off until you get the pre-load you want/need. 💡😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 You can get laminated shims and just peel them off until you get the pre-load you want/need. 💡😉 and the bearing is pressed into place on the axle then a locking ring is pressed against the bearing. any end play that you may detect should be minimal and within the bearing itself. early bearings are non tapered rollers where the later are captured taper rollers. when removing and then reinstalling these be sure to replace the metal gaskets and clean their sealing surfaces too. the used ones might do fine but when are you going to find out otherwise? after the oils in, and then there is the Saturday spent doing it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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