ArdWrknTrk Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 I am not sure what it will need. Do you have the stock bullnose column? If I recall correctly the column or wheel looked an OBS one. Either way, if those columns were designed to work with a rag joint, then by replacing it with solid intermediate shaft its possibly the innards may see more wear or may transmit road noise/vibrations. Just a thought. I don't have any specific ideas unfortunately. I put a layer F150 shaft with U-joints at both ends. It has a cruciform shaft w/ polymer bushings (I suspect acetal) It doesn't make any weird noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 I put a layer F150 shaft with U-joints at both ends. It has a cruciform shaft w/ polymer bushings (I suspect acetal) It doesn't make any weird noise. The steering column is a Bullnose one, although not original to Big Blue 'cause he had a tilt column I wanted out of there so I could hoist myself in. I didn't eliminate the telescoping shaft. But I don't think the issue is due to that or the Borgeson. I think it has to do with slack in the steering column itself. Sitting still I can pull the steering wheel up ~1/16". And it is that slack that appears to be allowing movement when driving that has rubber or plastic sliding against metal, making the noise. I say "appears" because I'm obviously not sure, but when driving if I hold the wheel up or down, so making sure there is no up/down movement, the noise goes away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxFord33 Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Ok, now for what I did with my truck yesterday. Steve/FoxFord33 and I took Big Blue and the trailer to Stillwater to retrieve a Mercury Mountaineer he bought for parts. We got a late start and an even later return, 11 PM, but we made it. I'll let Steve tell y'all why it took so long - if he wants to. Big Blue wagged the trailer just fine, but we had three problems relating to Big Blue that I'll be working on: Front Bumper: The gentleman Steve bought the Mecury from didn't have a key, so we had to drg it onto the trailer with the winch - all four tires sliding. It was a big strain for the winch and something shifted in the bumper/winch mount as we did it. So I have to check that out and fix it, whatever it is. Chuckling Noise: Lately I've been having a chuckling noise on rough roads that sounds like plastic rubbing again metal. And last night we had plenty of rough roads. But I think I've sorta found the source of the noise - the steering column. If I pull up, push down, or otherwise put force on the steering wheel I can pretty well stop the noise. And if I put my fingers at the base of the wheel where it goes into the metal collar of the column I can feel movement between them that coincides with the noise. So either the wheel itself or something in the column is apparently making that noise. Clutch Safety Bypass: I got that thing installed just before Steve said "let's go" and I'll swear it worked in the shop. But when I tried to start it in neutral last night w/o pushing in the clutch it wouldn't do it. So I have to figure out why. Yes, I underestimated the time needed to wrestle a vehicle with all 4 heels dug-in. I tried to pop the ignition cylinder out, but to no avail: I have only ever removed them with the key, never without. The guy who I bought it from offered to use the bucket on his tractor to push and lift, but it wouldn't start. So after the winch bumper scared us, we blocked the tires and I scrambled under to disconnect the drive shaft from the rear diff. There are 4 bolts which have a 12-point head, and thankfully Gary had the right wrench in his box. Meanwhile, Gary helped our host charge his tractor in hopes of using that, but it never would start. Eventually, I turned the bolts out and popped the driveshaft loose, at which point the winch made light work of it again. By that time, it was past dark-thirty, and we hit the road back. It was so late when we got back to town, we just left the thing on the trailer overnight, but it's in my driveway now (to my wife's great chagrin)! Thanks again to Gary for the equipment and expertise! Also, I'm glad it worked as a shakedown for Big Blue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 Yes, I underestimated the time needed to wrestle a vehicle with all 4 heels dug-in. I tried to pop the ignition cylinder out, but to no avail: I have only ever removed them with the key, never without. The guy who I bought it from offered to use the bucket on his tractor to push and lift, but it wouldn't start. So after the winch bumper scared us, we blocked the tires and I scrambled under to disconnect the drive shaft from the rear diff. There are 4 bolts which have a 12-point head, and thankfully Gary had the right wrench in his box. Meanwhile, Gary helped our host charge his tractor in hopes of using that, but it never would start. Eventually, I turned the bolts out and popped the driveshaft loose, at which point the winch made light work of it again. By that time, it was past dark-thirty, and we hit the road back. It was so late when we got back to town, we just left the thing on the trailer overnight, but it's in my driveway now (to my wife's great chagrin)! Thanks again to Gary for the equipment and expertise! Also, I'm glad it worked as a shakedown for Big Blue. We had a good trip. It did take a while longer than expected, but we made it. And it was a good shakedown cruise, but now I have things to fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essmaker Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 We had a good trip. It did take a while longer than expected, but we made it. And it was a good shakedown cruise, but now I have things to fix. With a bit of motivation after work, I had my son meet me at the barn to help mount the front bumper. The new carriage bolts and nuts (set from LMC) are so tight that I needed him to keep them pressed tight to the bumper while I used the air ratchet from behind. Two tightened up and two just spun the edges off the carriage bolts...not even half threaded. So, off it will come this week and I'm going to tack weld those ba$tards to the bumper from the back so they can't spin while drawing down the nuts. Hopefully without heating it enough to damage the chrome. 10 minute job turned into a bad mood, a couple capt Morgan and cokes and welder plans. Argh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 With a bit of motivation after work, I had my son meet me at the barn to help mount the front bumper. The new carriage bolts and nuts (set from LMC) are so tight that I needed him to keep them pressed tight to the bumper while I used the air ratchet from behind. Two tightened up and two just spun the edges off the carriage bolts...not even half threaded. So, off it will come this week and I'm going to tack weld those ba$tards to the bumper from the back so they can't spin while drawing down the nuts. Hopefully without heating it enough to damage the chrome. 10 minute job turned into a bad mood, a couple capt Morgan and cokes and welder plans. Argh Bummer! But at least you have a plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 With a bit of motivation after work, I had my son meet me at the barn to help mount the front bumper. The new carriage bolts and nuts (set from LMC) are so tight that I needed him to keep them pressed tight to the bumper while I used the air ratchet from behind. Two tightened up and two just spun the edges off the carriage bolts...not even half threaded. So, off it will come this week and I'm going to tack weld those ba$tards to the bumper from the back so they can't spin while drawing down the nuts. Hopefully without heating it enough to damage the chrome. 10 minute job turned into a bad mood, a couple capt Morgan and cokes and welder plans. Argh Is the square on the LMC bolts way too small? Do your bolts have chrome caps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Is the square on the LMC bolts way too small? Do your bolts have chrome caps? these can be troublesome. I have cut many off. not usually new ones though. I have a habit of threading nuts and bolts together and storing them that way as it helps me keep track of quantities. but as a bonus it does provide the chance to test fit also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 these can be troublesome. I have cut many off. not usually new ones though. I have a habit of threading nuts and bolts together and storing them that way as it helps me keep track of quantities. but as a bonus it does provide the chance to test fit also. If they're stainless they will gall up solid long before they get tight enough, if you don't use moly grease or something like PST on the threads. DAMHIK... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 If they're stainless they will gall up solid long before they get tight enough, if you don't use moly grease or something like PST on the threads. DAMHIK... Drove the truck to work and back today, I was on vacation last week and didn't drive it after making a Lowes run after doing the front-end work. I need to center the steering wheel since it's a little off to the left but it sure is a lot smoother driving down the highway than it used to be. The truck sat for 7 days, man that thing blew all kinds of weird smoke for about 3 minutes. That problem is getting worse, and I need to do something about it sometime soon, I could smell oil this time for the first time. For the past few years if it sits for more than a few days it has this really weird bright blue exhaust that starts 30 seconds to a minute after starting and usually goes away completely by the end of my street and it does not linger in the air like oil smoke usually does, it goes away like its condensation steam but it also only runs on 7 cylinders for about the first 10-30 seconds until I kick the high idle down or rev the engine a bit then it runs fine on 8 cylinders. Never have been able to find any vacuum leaks, doesn't seem to be the choke setting as I've messed with that with no change, can't find any issues with the ignition system and everything is fresh. I think this engine is getting a bit tired. The cylinders all had a bit of a ring ridge and no crosshatch left when I put my Edelbrock heads on back in 2016, so no real surprise there. I'm not sure what happened to this engine but about 4 years ago it developed some blow by when warm just out of nowhere one day, usually runs on 7 cylinders after cold start and runs on 8 either by itself after a minute at the most or if I rev it or kick the high idle down a bit, rough idle most of the time and random misfires at idle not associated to carb or ignition. It runs excellent going down the road. Before all of this happened the engine always idled really smoothly. I've been trying to search for a decent deal for a short block but not coming up with much. Anyone have any experience with the Power Torque short or long block engines from Oreilly's? After my last engine build costing twice of what I wanted it to, I'd rather not try to find another block then take it to the machine shop. The 94-96 351W roller block is about $1800 from Oreilly's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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