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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Did quite a bit today. Replaced that rear fuel tank vent valve, the vent hose, the vent hoses at the T/Y connection along the passenger side frame rail. Mounted my new LT265/75/R16 spare tire and had to modify the carrier slightly. The big plastic wing nut that holds the tire to the carrier bar the threads weren't quite long enough with the wider tire for some reason so I found a long bolt the same thread pitch and made it work. I somewhat have to use a wrench now to get the wing nut loose since its not a square carriage bolt, but I actually found it easier than reaching up top and loosening it by hand and I carry lots of tools so not a big deal. Also put new rear shocks on as well.

Also, PSA to anyone who ever worked at Draw Tite, make a trailer hitch that the bolting flange doesn't stick over past the frame rail lip to the inside of the frame for no reason, so you don't have to drop the trailer hitch to take the gas tank out. That's the third time I've had that heavy chunk of steel on and off over the years.

That IS a lot of work! Well done! :nabble_anim_claps:

And I'm with you on the hitch. That's a big chunk of metal and it sure has to come off to get to the tank.

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Did quite a bit today. Replaced that rear fuel tank vent valve, the vent hose, the vent hoses at the T/Y connection along the passenger side frame rail. Mounted my new LT265/75/R16 spare tire and had to modify the carrier slightly. The big plastic wing nut that holds the tire to the carrier bar the threads weren't quite long enough with the wider tire for some reason so I found a long bolt the same thread pitch and made it work. I somewhat have to use a wrench now to get the wing nut loose since its not a square carriage bolt, but I actually found it easier than reaching up top and loosening it by hand and I carry lots of tools so not a big deal. Also put new rear shocks on as well.

Also, PSA to anyone who ever worked at Draw Tite, make a trailer hitch that the bolting flange doesn't stick over past the frame rail lip to the inside of the frame for no reason, so you don't have to drop the trailer hitch to take the gas tank out. That's the third time I've had that heavy chunk of steel on and off over the years.

I would have cut the flange back the first time... :nabble_anim_crazy:

I've got a U-Haul hitch.

Don't know who makes them for them....

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I would have cut the flange back the first time... :nabble_anim_crazy:

I've got a U-Haul hitch.

Don't know who makes them for them....

I'd have cut it this time but didn't feel like making a bunch of sparks with the smell of gas fumes present. Definitely getting cut next time. I think I might put a new vent vale in the midship tank as well, the rear one crumbled apart really easily prying it out.

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I'd have cut it this time but didn't feel like making a bunch of sparks with the smell of gas fumes present. Definitely getting cut next time. I think I might put a new vent vale in the midship tank as well, the rear one crumbled apart really easily prying it out.

I ran mine in tygon fuel line for a small 2stroke (like a weedwacker or chainsaw

Since I don't have any charcoal canister I followed the fill hose and used a transmission vent from a Lexus.

It just hangs up behind the filler cubby.

 

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I ran mine in tygon fuel line for a small 2stroke (like a weedwacker or chainsaw

Since I don't have any charcoal canister I followed the fill hose and used a transmission vent from a Lexus.

It just hangs up behind the filler cubby.

The line I used was some sort of double walled small engine fuel line in 5MM ID I got off Amazon. It fit perfectly and seems very heavy duty for a small engine fuel line. I've still got it going up into the engine bay via the factory setup but it just dead ends to atmosphere where the rubber hose would hook up to the charcoal canister. Never have smelled any fuel vapors with it like that and the tanks have always vented fine.

I thought about using Tygon but I've done lots of small engine repair over the years and always found the Tygon became hard as a rock when it's not supposed to, so I decided to try this.

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The line I used was some sort of double walled small engine fuel line in 5MM ID I got off Amazon. It fit perfectly and seems very heavy duty for a small engine fuel line. I've still got it going up into the engine bay via the factory setup but it just dead ends to atmosphere where the rubber hose would hook up to the charcoal canister. Never have smelled any fuel vapors with it like that and the tanks have always vented fine.

I thought about using Tygon but I've done lots of small engine repair over the years and always found the Tygon became hard as a rock when it's not supposed to, so I decided to try this.

Interesting!

I suppose any plastic saturated in fuel and vapors will eventually either get hard, or soft as gum, like the blue nylon fuel lines do.

The fact that a puny little steel line can last 40 years is testament to its durability.

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Interesting!

I suppose any plastic saturated in fuel and vapors will eventually either get hard, or soft as gum, like the blue nylon fuel lines do.

The fact that a puny little steel line can last 40 years is testament to its durability.

Yeah I always found it odd that Tygon fuel line, their claim to fame is that it does not get hard but every 2 cycle application I ever used it on, it became hard as a rock in short order. Not sure what to think of that. It got especially hard when it was submerged in fuel. The steel line along the frame is still pretty good on my truck.

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Yeah I always found it odd that Tygon fuel line, their claim to fame is that it does not get hard but every 2 cycle application I ever used it on, it became hard as a rock in short order. Not sure what to think of that. It got especially hard when it was submerged in fuel. The steel line along the frame is still pretty good on my truck.

Started working on the new vinyl floor for the cab. I got the insulation in and then started on fitting the new vinyl. Not as quick and easy as I hoped. Still working on it.

Switched gears to replacing the seat upholstery. I have a new set from LMC.

Disappointed is my main feeling right now. The original had j-hooks to secure it to the frame.

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The new set is secured using hog rings....which means I now get to drill a ton of holes in the frame to secure it. I'm sure it will turn out fine, just an expected step.

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20240310_120258.jpg.b3ac7cae37142addd2855f57bc5ee8b6.jpg

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Started working on the new vinyl floor for the cab. I got the insulation in and then started on fitting the new vinyl. Not as quick and easy as I hoped. Still working on it.

Switched gears to replacing the seat upholstery. I have a new set from LMC.

Disappointed is my main feeling right now. The original had j-hooks to secure it to the frame.

The new set is secured using hog rings....which means I now get to drill a ton of holes in the frame to secure it. I'm sure it will turn out fine, just an expected step.

I pop riveted a small bar across the seat so I had somewhere to attach...

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I pop riveted a small bar across the seat so I had somewhere to attach...

Bad mood day I guess. After putting aside the false idea of a replacement from LMC...and working through the options on how to work their hog rings into this...

1/4" self tappers to the rescue. As good using their aftermarket way with a tremendous amount of time saved.

I have to work out a wrinkle, but otherwise a far better solution to their not direct replacement.

20240310_190529.jpg.0fa24cf7945dd78351a0ca507e5cea34.jpg

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