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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Matt good it was not worst than what it was.

I believe if you did not have the control of where the air flows all the way to the left, off, the blower will still be powered on slow and why the resister heated up.

Dave ----

absolutely! that is a great point. you must turn the "system" off completely. not just slowing the fan down which actually makes matters worse as it uses the larger resister in the bank, making sort of a cigar lighter if you will.

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absolutely! that is a great point. you must turn the "system" off completely. not just slowing the fan down which actually makes matters worse as it uses the larger resister in the bank, making sort of a cigar lighter if you will.

Man! The thought of a fire in the blower plenum terrifies me. 🔥

Glad you were conscious of the danger and able to put it out in time!

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Man! The thought of a fire in the blower plenum terrifies me. 🔥

Glad you were conscious of the danger and able to put it out in time!

Yipes! That can be a huge problem! Glad you caught it in time.

And I know exactly the smell you had. My thought was "someone's burning leaves" and then I realized there was no one within a mile. :nabble_smiley_oh:

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Yipes! That can be a huge problem! Glad you caught it in time.

And I know exactly the smell you had. My thought was "someone's burning leaves" and then I realized there was no one within a mile. :nabble_smiley_oh:

it happens. those with the pinhole cowl don't often get the enjoyment but those with the old style get the leaves often enough. and who really thinks to clean out the duct boxes in the "a pillars"?

i replaced the axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushings in the camper special today and the bump noises are now gone. i put an oil pressure gauge instead of the sender so i could verify oil pressure and sure enough, the longer it runs the less pressure it has. the one odd tip that the factory gauge cannot read is when you hold throttle up a little and pressure is at its highest available, the pressure slightly spikes before going down after letting off the throttle. often caused by the crank walking around in the bearings. it makes no bad noises and runs fairly well but that just tells me that i caught it before damage is done. new bearings and gaskets along with timing set are ordered. the pump produces 55psi sustained pressure at idle upon start up so i hope to keep it but will inspect of course.

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it happens. those with the pinhole cowl don't often get the enjoyment but those with the old style get the leaves often enough. and who really thinks to clean out the duct boxes in the "a pillars"?

i replaced the axle pivot bushings and radius arm bushings in the camper special today and the bump noises are now gone. i put an oil pressure gauge instead of the sender so i could verify oil pressure and sure enough, the longer it runs the less pressure it has. the one odd tip that the factory gauge cannot read is when you hold throttle up a little and pressure is at its highest available, the pressure slightly spikes before going down after letting off the throttle. often caused by the crank walking around in the bearings. it makes no bad noises and runs fairly well but that just tells me that i caught it before damage is done. new bearings and gaskets along with timing set are ordered. the pump produces 55psi sustained pressure at idle upon start up so i hope to keep it but will inspect of course.

Is there a difference in the tilt and non tilt wheel sleeve/cover, don't remember which it was on, I was intent on other stuff that needed that removed, it was off, I needed one so I got it. Seems to be too long to go all the way under the cluster.

BF

sleeve.jpg.a12dad85f52235240212c39363f99a02.jpg

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Is there a difference in the tilt and non tilt wheel sleeve/cover, don't remember which it was on, I was intent on other stuff that needed that removed, it was off, I needed one so I got it. Seems to be too long to go all the way under the cluster.

BF

Yes, there's a difference. I don't remember which way it goes, but one is longer than the other.

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Is there a difference in the tilt and non tilt wheel sleeve/cover, don't remember which it was on, I was intent on other stuff that needed that removed, it was off, I needed one so I got it. Seems to be too long to go all the way under the cluster.

BF

For what it's worth, I put a non-tilt sleeve on my non-tilt column and I fought with it big time. You can't put it on with the cluster bezel in place, and I think I dropped the column just to gain enough room to muscle it on.

But that looks like the one I put on my truck, so if the tilt version is different, that's probably not what you want. Any engineering numbers stamped on it?

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For what it's worth, I put a non-tilt sleeve on my non-tilt column and I fought with it big time. You can't put it on with the cluster bezel in place, and I think I dropped the column just to gain enough room to muscle it on.

But that looks like the one I put on my truck, so if the tilt version is different, that's probably not what you want. Any engineering numbers stamped on it?

the tilt column needs the shorter version.

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the tilt column needs the shorter version.

Sorry about not getting back sooner, didn't get notification.

Length is 8 1/4", C924A CMI...under that # EOTA 3530 CWC. (EOTA would be 1980?)

I was thinking about cutting some off where it goes into/under the cluster.

Thanks, Bill

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Sorry about not getting back sooner, didn't get notification.

Length is 8 1/4", C924A CMI...under that # EOTA 3530 CWC. (EOTA would be 1980?)

I was thinking about cutting some off where it goes into/under the cluster.

Thanks, Bill

E0 means the part was originally designed for the big 1980 model year change.

Heck, I have some C8VE (1968 Lincoln Engine) parts on my 460 from the factory in 1987!

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