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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Connector confirmed.

Even if they're actually used, still way cheaper than $30-$40 elsewhere:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165397066224

The master cylinder is off a 1992 F150... $40 shipped, same as RA for the new raybestos. Given the cost of gas these days, I'd spend that much (if not more) just driving to the JY and back.

Been working on this.. and when all is said and done, there will be a writeup on it.

In the mean time, the used master cylinder is a fail. The level sensor was faulty (which I was and probably still will rebuild, but that's for the writeup) and the plungers were seized. I eventually freed up, but I cannot get fluid to flow from the reservoir to the front brake circuit. I can get air to flow backwards (blow through the front port into the reservoir) but it refuses to bench/vacuum bleed. The rear circuit works just fine... so at least the residual pressure valve can be transferred.

Seems to be a rust related issue... lots of rust in the front port. Poor storage?

Went ahead and ordered a Raybestos new MC... it (probably) has a new level sensor too, but that will at least allow for me to bleed things and have a working setup.

FWIW the rear reservoir on the old one was full of black junk... which to me confirms that it ate a seal.

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Been working on this.. and when all is said and done, there will be a writeup on it.

In the mean time, the used master cylinder is a fail. The level sensor was faulty (which I was and probably still will rebuild, but that's for the writeup) and the plungers were seized. I eventually freed up, but I cannot get fluid to flow from the reservoir to the front brake circuit. I can get air to flow backwards (blow through the front port into the reservoir) but it refuses to bench/vacuum bleed. The rear circuit works just fine... so at least the residual pressure valve can be transferred.

Seems to be a rust related issue... lots of rust in the front port. Poor storage?

Went ahead and ordered a Raybestos new MC... it (probably) has a new level sensor too, but that will at least allow for me to bleed things and have a working setup.

FWIW the rear reservoir on the old one was full of black junk... which to me confirms that it ate a seal.

I think you are making progress, but two steps forward and one back is no fun. :nabble_smiley_cry:

Is the new MC the old cast iron style or new aluminum?

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Aluminum

Bonded in a new floor pan, bent up a new channel for the weatherstrip/wiring, and fixed/sealed an old PTO-engagement-knob hole with a license plate (I always wanted to do that, for reasons).

The PTO hole actually had stress cracks all around it, so I ended up cutting a big section out to get around all the cracks.

20220612_163502.jpg.cf580d73ec2677976b719708ba6cdeee.jpg

20220612_193202.jpg.75dda09249595244afbbb98f0401020e.jpg

Very professional job, obviously. I also learned how flimsy license plates are. Won't do that again.

Its way better than the ankle vent and the gaping hole in the transmission tunnel, though, and I got to see that my front body mount in that area still looked brand new inside.

edit: I have no idea why the pics are oriented so strangely.

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I have no idea why the pics are oriented so strangely.

This happens with iPhone picts, at least. Maybe other phone brands, not sure.

Simply 1) edit your pict, rotate it (any direction, no matter), close it, 2) re-edit the picture and rotate it correctly, close it again.

That’s it, it will appear correctly on the thread. Don’t ask me why…

:nabble_anim_confused:

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Changed my movable pole shoe starter for a permanent magnet unit.

MONUMENTAL DIFFERANCE in current draw, and starter performance! I have done this many times on race cars, but this is the first time putting a "mini-torque" starter on a truck.

I STRONGLY recommend anyone do this modification. It is cheap and easy, requires very little modification to the wiring, and increases the reliability of the starting system about 1000%

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Changed my movable pole shoe starter for a permanent magnet unit.

MONUMENTAL DIFFERANCE in current draw, and starter performance! I have done this many times on race cars, but this is the first time putting a "mini-torque" starter on a truck.

I STRONGLY recommend anyone do this modification. It is cheap and easy, requires very little modification to the wiring, and increases the reliability of the starting system about 1000%

Snapchat-197979944.thumb.jpg.93240a682af43ae26cd7d8566158598e.jpgSnapchat-966627534.thumb.jpg.ebf3a05c501f7dc9070ecc1c2a7a006f.jpg20220618_163849.jpg.e8d2f5b41e37a5b85bf9c9dcf6ddad8b.jpg20220618_164459.jpg.d3562b5107eb6397db871b1ad148d92b.jpg20220618_165357.jpg.2882406808871bccc66460890ffba7f8.jpgc="20220618_164226.jpg" border="0"/>

Busy day, went for a cruise to check out the recently-last-week opened newly built covered bridge on a nice cool Saturday after some absolutely wild stormy weather this week. I also got around to finally building a cab light harness from scratch as I havent had time to hit up the junkyards for one, so I'll be adding them to my truck soon. I took the time to even add factory style plugs to the sockets, soldered everything and used glue heat shrink. If anyone is in need of a harness I was thinking about making/selling them since they don't seem to be readily available. The only thing I couldn't do was find a plug and since there are a couple styles I figured I'll manage to get power there when I get them on.

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Busy day, went for a cruise to check out the recently-last-week opened newly built covered bridge

Wow! Here we have so few sensibility for history, citizens have to fight to force the government to spent some money to save and preserve the last covered bridges that are still surviving.

:nabble_anim_claps:

 

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