WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Gary Lewis]

From what I'm reading, if it's leaking between chambers like that, that's a bad piston or internal seal in the master cylinder... which sucks because it was replaced with a NEW unit nearly three years ago.

Who makes decent master cylinders these days? The one I have now is an AC Delco (what I could get on RA at the time)... as is the booster (AC Delco reman, also what I could get, wasn't happy that nothing was painted hence why both are covered in rust)

If it was me I'd go with the later model master that has an aluminum body, plastic reservoir, and a single cap that doesn't leak.

[ratdude747]

If it was me I'd go with the later model master that has an aluminum body, plastic reservoir, and a single cap that doesn't leak.

And it's a direct fit without having to change the rest of the system?

[Gary Lewis]

And it's a direct fit without having to change the rest of the system?

Yes, with the exception that you need the residual pressure valve - at least that's what I think it is called. It adapts the threads in the master cylinder to your brake line. And you have to reverse the lines, which is really easy.

[ratdude747]

Yes, with the exception that you need the residual pressure valve - at least that's what I think it is called. It adapts the threads in the master cylinder to your brake line. And you have to reverse the lines, which is really easy.

Cool.

If I go that route, I found somebody on eBay with the reservoir switch connector for $13... I'll add it to the brake warning light circuit.

Edit- Not going that route unless I hit a JY... those valves are EXPENSIVE.

It's part number F8UZ-2C161-AA (or so I found with a bit of googling)... $65+ a pop.

What I may do is for now go with a drop-in replacement (Raybestos New, very affordable!) and treat a future upgrade as something to pull at a JY as an entire unit (with the level switch pigtail) to rebuild (if needed) and rehab later. And that'll be for another thread/writeup if and when it happens.

[Gary Lewis]

Cool.

If I go that route, I found somebody on eBay with the reservoir switch connector for $13... I'll add it to the brake warning light circuit.

Edit- Not going that route unless I hit a JY... those valves are EXPENSIVE.

It's part number F8UZ-2C161-AA (or so I found with a bit of googling)... $65+ a pop.

What I may do is for now go with a drop-in replacement (Raybestos New, very affordable!) and treat a future upgrade as something to pull at a JY as an entire unit (with the level switch pigtail) to rebuild (if needed) and rehab later. And that'll be for another thread/writeup if and when it happens.

Do some searching on here as others have done the swap and have the name and part numbers for that valve/connector. And some have bought the master cylinder with that valve. Direct swap.

[ratdude747]

Do some searching on here as others have done the swap and have the name and part numbers for that valve/connector. And some have bought the master cylinder with that valve. Direct swap.

You sniped my edit.

See the post... I have a short term and long term plan.

Another edit: Cancelled the rockauto order... found a used master cylinder (no connector) used for cheap (enough) and has the residual pressure valve on it.

[scbill]

Do some searching on here as others have done the swap and have the name and part numbers for that valve/connector. And some have bought the master cylinder with that valve. Direct swap.

I ripped a piece of plywood and made a square cut so to make a gauge to mark the depth of the donor MC, butted the long piece on the booster, slid the short piece to the rod ,marked it, also made reference marks to set rod on my truck. It took less than 1/2 hour to do the swap, including bleeding, which I did by loosening the MC lines.

 

[Gary Lewis]

You sniped my edit.

See the post... I have a short term and long term plan.

Another edit: Cancelled the rockauto order... found a used master cylinder (no connector) used for cheap (enough) and has the residual pressure valve on it.

Someone on here bought an MC with that valve on it from the parts store, and it wasn't terribly expensive.

But I'd head to a salvage and put a used one on before going with the old-style MC. I say that because I don't like bleeding systems, especially with the old-style MC's. So I'd rather put a used one on and bleed once rather than having to bleed twice. And since I have a cap for placing pressure on the new-style MC's, bleeding them is MUCH easier.

[ratdude747]

Someone on here bought an MC with that valve on it from the parts store, and it wasn't terribly expensive.

But I'd head to a salvage and put a used one on before going with the old-style MC. I say that because I don't like bleeding systems, especially with the old-style MC's. So I'd rather put a used one on and bleed once rather than having to bleed twice. And since I have a cap for placing pressure on the new-style MC's, bleeding them is MUCH easier.

Already done via eBay. Verifying that the connector I found is right and once that's done I'll order it too. These connectors are a bit of a bastard in my experience on Rangers... both Ranger's have had to have the plugs wiggled due to issues (brake light, ABS faults, etc.).

[ratdude747]

Already done via eBay. Verifying that the connector I found is right and once that's done I'll order it too. These connectors are a bit of a bastard in my experience on Rangers... both Ranger's have had to have the plugs wiggled due to issues (brake light, ABS faults, etc.).

Connector confirmed.

Even if they're actually used, still way cheaper than $30-$40 elsewhere:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/165397066224

The master cylinder is off a 1992 F150... $40 shipped, same as RA for the new raybestos. Given the cost of gas these days, I'd spend that much (if not more) just driving to the JY and back.