WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Machspeed]

I hear you.

But compression doesn't rely on a harness.

If you have a noid light you can see the injector pulses.

Now you know you don't get spark.

Unplug the SPOUT.

If you get spark then, it's the ECU.

If you still don't get spark it is the coil or PIP.

There's not much else...

Spent a good part of the day replacing my wore out shocks. I knew they were bad, but they were wayyy bad. Replacing them wore me out too! I started with the rear and ran the bolt through the top mount. However, I underestimated the amount of force to compress the shock to get it in the lower mount. I measured the distance needed, and ultimately put the sucker on my press and secured it with a cargo strap. I again put the shock in the top mount and swung it over to the lower mount to install but it would not go in. Apparently, the mount was collapsed slightly from the installation of the old shocks. Took my impact gun to open that space up. After crawling out from under that thing a dozen times or so, I finally got both rear shocks mounted.

Went to the front driver's side and easily removed the front shock. Didn't even pull the wheel. Install went easy as well. The passenger side was a different story. No problem removing the lower mount but that top nut just would not budge. This too after soaking in PB Blaster for several days. Removed the wheel/tire and took a dremel with a cut-off wheel to that top nut. That took awhile, as the space in there is limiting and I had to make several cuts. Also, I kept breaking the little cut off wheels. Eventually got enough cuts on it that I was able to break it apart with a chisel and hammer. Install went easy.

Here's the old shocks or what's left of them. Truck sits higher now and while its a little stiffer, the road feel is really nice.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Spent a good part of the day replacing my wore out shocks. I knew they were bad, but they were wayyy bad. Replacing them wore me out too! I started with the rear and ran the bolt through the top mount. However, I underestimated the amount of force to compress the shock to get it in the lower mount. I measured the distance needed, and ultimately put the sucker on my press and secured it with a cargo strap. I again put the shock in the top mount and swung it over to the lower mount to install but it would not go in. Apparently, the mount was collapsed slightly from the installation of the old shocks. Took my impact gun to open that space up. After crawling out from under that thing a dozen times or so, I finally got both rear shocks mounted.

Went to the front driver's side and easily removed the front shock. Didn't even pull the wheel. Install went easy as well. The passenger side was a different story. No problem removing the lower mount but that top nut just would not budge. This too after soaking in PB Blaster for several days. Removed the wheel/tire and took a dremel with a cut-off wheel to that top nut. That took awhile, as the space in there is limiting and I had to make several cuts. Also, I kept breaking the little cut off wheels. Eventually got enough cuts on it that I was able to break it apart with a chisel and hammer. Install went easy.

Here's the old shocks or what's left of them. Truck sits higher now and while its a little stiffer, the road feel is really nice.

Glad you got them replaced. Did you happen to use anti-seize on the nuts? I'm slathering everything under there with it, like the bumper bolts, so I can get them off later.

[red1980F150]

Glad you got them replaced. Did you happen to use anti-seize on the nuts? I'm slathering everything under there with it, like the bumper bolts, so I can get them off later.

When I got my bullnose I thought "at least I won't have to fix any more window motors"... as I did with my aeronose, because Elaine has manual windows.

Alas, the regulator broke so I still ended up working on the windows! Either a bearing or the gear in the crank. In any case, I got that done. Only took about an hour, and that was with me using a rivet gun that was too small and forcing it to work.

I got the window regulator for $35 on Rockauto. It seems to be a little lighter/thinner than the stock regulator but it's working well for now. Anyone else have a manual window regulator go out? It surprised me, but it's a moving part that's 40 years old so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised.

[rcarlisle]

When I got my bullnose I thought "at least I won't have to fix any more window motors"... as I did with my aeronose, because Elaine has manual windows.

Alas, the regulator broke so I still ended up working on the windows! Either a bearing or the gear in the crank. In any case, I got that done. Only took about an hour, and that was with me using a rivet gun that was too small and forcing it to work.

I got the window regulator for $35 on Rockauto. It seems to be a little lighter/thinner than the stock regulator but it's working well for now. Anyone else have a manual window regulator go out? It surprised me, but it's a moving part that's 40 years old so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised.

I just got my new regulator today. One in truck still works, but takes a lot of start/stops. I want to do that, sound deadener, barrier, and new armrests. Passenger door gets all that except the regulator too. Maybe this weekend; maybe not. Going to be 93 or more for the next few days.

[Gary Lewis]

I just got my new regulator today. One in truck still works, but takes a lot of start/stops. I want to do that, sound deadener, barrier, and new armrests. Passenger door gets all that except the regulator too. Maybe this weekend; maybe not. Going to be 93 or more for the next few days.

I've not had a manual window regulator go completely out, but I've had the bearings be loose so the handle wobbles. They live in a rough environment so I guess it isn't surprising that they fail. Hopefully the new one will last.

[rcarlisle]

I've not had a manual window regulator go completely out, but I've had the bearings be loose so the handle wobbles. They live in a rough environment so I guess it isn't surprising that they fail. Hopefully the new one will last.

I forgot to take photos of course. But just know in this photo are a window regulator, sound deadener in the door, vapor barrier, and a new armrest. I have no idea the issue with the old one, but the new one works smoothly.

[Gary Lewis]

I forgot to take photos of course. But just know in this photo are a window regulator, sound deadener in the door, vapor barrier, and a new armrest. I have no idea the issue with the old one, but the new one works smoothly.

Looks good, Randy.

[salans7]

Looks good, Randy.

Friday on my way home from work, I noticed that my CII power steering pump on the Ranger was MUCH more talkative than usual. Got it home and found that the fluid level had dropped quite a bit, but no leaks to be found. I guess there was still a bubble in there somewhere and she finally let go. I recently put in a new rack and pinion and replaced the teflon seal and O-rings for the feed line as they were twenty years old and leaking. I used Ford's bleeding procedure right out of the shop manual, but I guess I didn't do it long enough. Either way, she's topped off and ready to go.

[Gary Lewis]

Friday on my way home from work, I noticed that my CII power steering pump on the Ranger was MUCH more talkative than usual. Got it home and found that the fluid level had dropped quite a bit, but no leaks to be found. I guess there was still a bubble in there somewhere and she finally let go. I recently put in a new rack and pinion and replaced the teflon seal and O-rings for the feed line as they were twenty years old and leaking. I used Ford's bleeding procedure right out of the shop manual, but I guess I didn't do it long enough. Either way, she's topped off and ready to go.

And it is quiet now, right?

[salans7]

And it is quiet now, right?

No.

It's back to the normal CII whine.