ArdWrknTrk Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 Well, that fireplug on the 2G was about to live up to it is name! 😳 There's a REASON we all switch to the 3G with a full sized charging cable on its own lug. But is that excite wire in the regulator harness just glommed with solder??? Man! That's janky. I'm going to replace that plug for now and then convert to 3G shortly before winter using everything I salvaged from my 95. I am wondering if there is super high resistance in those circuits taking away from the ignition system. I tested power at the coil and have 10 volts at it. It tried to fire a few times fiddling around with this harness. I am thinking when resistance drops the power at the coil increases and the spark quality improves. It wouldn't start, but thats more than I've gotten in a while. I am amazed the charging system worked in this thing and cannot beleive they weren't changed when they replaced the alternator before I bought it. If someone changed the alternator and used that plug they should be tarred. Repost from FTE You have the infamous 2G alternator? I would suggest changing the charging plug pigtail as outlined in Ford TSB 96214. "At any time the charging system or battery is serviced" "Ford TSB 96214, applies to F150 through F350, model years 1986 through 1994 (The TSB also applies to numerous other car and truck models) ISSUE: When a generator fails, there are a few failure modes that may cause heat to be produced at the wiring harness-to-generator connector. This excess heat may damage the female terminals on the wiring harness, resulting in increased resistance. The increased resistance produces more heat. When the generator is replaced, the resistance produced by a damaged connector may damage the new generator and could result in a repeat repair, including installation of another generator. High resistance (caused by a damaged connector) will not go away until the damaged connector is replaced. ACTION: Visually inspect the harness-to-generator connector for damage (heat, corrosion, distortion and cracking) before installing a new generator. Install the Generator Wiring Harness Connector Kit (E5AZ-14305-AA) if the harness-to-generator connector is damaged. The Generator Wiring Harness Connector Kit (E5AZ-14305-AA) contains the following: ^ One (1) Red Wire Butt Connector ^ Two (2) Yellow Wire Butt Connectors ^ One (1) Wire Connector Assembly ^ One (1) Instruction Sheet (I.S. 6849) " These pigtails can be found at almost any parts store. Here are a few examples... Borg-Warner PT-780 Standard Motor Products S-542 Power Plug 4628011 KEM Parts 350-220 Pico 5711 Dorman 85123 Motormite 08622 NAPA VRA400 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 If someone changed the alternator and used that plug they should be tarred. Repost from FTE You have the infamous 2G alternator? I would suggest changing the charging plug pigtail as outlined in Ford TSB 96214. "At any time the charging system or battery is serviced" "Ford TSB 96214, applies to F150 through F350, model years 1986 through 1994 (The TSB also applies to numerous other car and truck models) ISSUE: When a generator fails, there are a few failure modes that may cause heat to be produced at the wiring harness-to-generator connector. This excess heat may damage the female terminals on the wiring harness, resulting in increased resistance. The increased resistance produces more heat. When the generator is replaced, the resistance produced by a damaged connector may damage the new generator and could result in a repeat repair, including installation of another generator. High resistance (caused by a damaged connector) will not go away until the damaged connector is replaced. ACTION: Visually inspect the harness-to-generator connector for damage (heat, corrosion, distortion and cracking) before installing a new generator. Install the Generator Wiring Harness Connector Kit (E5AZ-14305-AA) if the harness-to-generator connector is damaged. The Generator Wiring Harness Connector Kit (E5AZ-14305-AA) contains the following: ^ One (1) Red Wire Butt Connector ^ Two (2) Yellow Wire Butt Connectors ^ One (1) Wire Connector Assembly ^ One (1) Instruction Sheet (I.S. 6849) " These pigtails can be found at almost any parts store. Here are a few examples... Borg-Warner PT-780 Standard Motor Products S-542 Power Plug 4628011 KEM Parts 350-220 Pico 5711 Dorman 85123 Motormite 08622 NAPA VRA400 But it looks like you need a new regulator pigtail too. 👀 Is yours oval or D shaped on the yellow/green/black plug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 But it looks like you need a new regulator pigtail too. 👀 Is yours oval or D shaped on the yellow/green/black plug? Yes I am definitely changing both, along with the EEC relay that I rigged together better than the green corrosion it had just for testing purposes. When it comes to wiring Im not one to usually do janky stuff. I beleive it is D shaped. The guy said he changed the alternator since it was having charging issues. I am amazed it worked since he left the plugs and pulled that stunt. Also, both plugs have broke locking clips on them. I actually only found the melted plug because it was loose. I'd known the wiring there was sketch but hadn't had a chance to pull it apart. This is the first thing I have found that I might have a lead one why the dang thing just quit after it got shut off. Everything else appears to be within spec.  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 Yes I am definitely changing both, along with the EEC relay that I rigged together better than the green corrosion it had just for testing purposes. When it comes to wiring Im not one to usually do janky stuff. I beleive it is D shaped. The guy said he changed the alternator since it was having charging issues. I am amazed it worked since he left the plugs and pulled that stunt. Also, both plugs have broke locking clips on them. I actually only found the melted plug because it was loose. I'd known the wiring there was sketch but hadn't had a chance to pull it apart. This is the first thing I have found that I might have a lead one why the dang thing just quit after it got shut off. Everything else appears to be within spec. 2G, 3G, 4G all take the same regulator plug. Repair connector .com has both plugs for $17 https://www.repairconnector.com/products/Ford-Alternator-Int-Regulator-Repair-Connector-Set.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 2G, 3G, 4G all take the same regulator plug. Repair connector .com has both plugs for $17 https://www.repairconnector.com/products/Ford-Alternator-Int-Regulator-Repair-Connector-Set.html I just ordered connectors for both alternator plugs, the EEC relay, headlight relay harness and a new thermal flasher to get rid of the garbage capacitor style electronic one in the truck now. Couple days when it all comes in I will repair it and see if we finally get this thing to fire after pulling my hair out. If this works I will really have overlooked it. I've been up and down on everything else. I will be really happy when I get everything from my 95 swapped over. That truck was incredibly reliable due to the modifications I made there that I am eager to get on this one, for peace of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 I just ordered connectors for both alternator plugs, the EEC relay, headlight relay harness and a new thermal flasher to get rid of the garbage capacitor style electronic one in the truck now. Couple days when it all comes in I will repair it and see if we finally get this thing to fire after pulling my hair out. If this works I will really have overlooked it. I've been up and down on everything else. I will be really happy when I get everything from my 95 swapped over. That truck was incredibly reliable due to the modifications I made there that I am eager to get on this one, for peace of mind. Amazing that anything worked Angelo. Wow! Good find! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 Amazing that anything worked Angelo. Wow! Good find! I guess these last few years as a GM and Ford technician working on brand new cars electrical systems is paying off lol! I'm just hoping the fusible links are ok, and not cracked. The harness seems very dry and wore out. I really cannot wait to rip this all out for a 3G conversion, but right now I need to get it running. Can anyone provide me with a wiring diagram of how this alternator harness is connected to the truck? I cannot seem to find anything on the 'net and I would like to see just how Ford wired it and where it goes to. I did notice when testing for spark it became very erratic and weak, to the point of no spark for a while before I started playing with the connections at the alternator. The way it ran and drove you could have fooled me that there was anything wrong with it. Also, God Bless this Ford starter...Will report back after repair... Edit I just realized if the alternator harness to the solenoid is on the outside of the post with the rest of the engine harness behind it I might be losing a good chunk of continuity. Hmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 Amazing that anything worked Angelo. Wow! Good find! I guess these last few years as a GM and Ford technician working on brand new cars electrical systems is paying off lol! I'm just hoping the fusible links are ok, and not cracked. The harness seems very dry and wore out. I really cannot wait to rip this all out for a 3G conversion, but right now I need to get it running. Can anyone provide me with a wiring diagram of how this alternator harness is connected to the truck? I cannot seem to find anything on the 'net and I would like to see just how Ford wired it and where it goes to. I did notice when testing for spark it became very erratic and weak, to the point of no spark for a while before I started playing with the connections at the alternator. The way it ran and drove you could have fooled me that there was anything wrong with it. Also, God Bless this Ford starter...Will report back after repair... Edit I just realized if the alternator harness to the solenoid is on the outside of the post with the rest of the engine harness behind it I might be losing a good chunk of continuity. Hmm. Have you looked in the EVTM in the documents section? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 Have you looked in the EVTM in the documents section? I did for a few minutes and didn't see anything but haven't had time to sit down and really dig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted August 13, 2021 Share Posted August 13, 2021 I did for a few minutes and didn't see anything but haven't had time to sit down and really dig. Just ordered up more hipo brilliant white LEDs for the instrument clusters in the other 2 trucks. They make such a difference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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