Gary Lewis Posted April 10, 2021 Author Share Posted April 10, 2021 Well I got the oil pan, I didnt get it for $100 but for $129 after tax but thats better than $180 after tax. Now I just have to wait till it gets in to see how hard it is to strip the grey paint off the oil pan both inside and outside. I dont trust having paint on the inside of the oil pan and I dont know why Ford would paint the inside of the pan as well knowing the paint can flake off. Most, if not all, of my oil pans have been painted inside and out. And none of them have flaked off. I'd want it painted to keep it from rusting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 Most, if not all, of my oil pans have been painted inside and out. And none of them have flaked off. I'd want it painted to keep it from rusting. Really? I guess I could strip the paint on just the outside to bare metal so I dont get an excessive build up let alone a chemical reaction to the 2K engine primer and engine paint I will be using. If you dont think there would be a problem leaving the grey paint on the inside I have no problem doing it as it would save me time as I can simply wirebrush the exterior of the pain to bare metal. The lip I am not too concerned with as I got the pan rail stiffeners from Ford Racing as I have the Felpro one piece rubber gasket I will be using. Im tempted to paint the pain first leaving the rail stiffeners black along with the ARP bolts. Not like youd see that unless you crawl under the truck. But everything else I am tempted into painting after assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 10, 2021 Author Share Posted April 10, 2021 Most, if not all, of my oil pans have been painted inside and out. And none of them have flaked off. I'd want it painted to keep it from rusting. Really? I guess I could strip the paint on just the outside to bare metal so I dont get an excessive build up let alone a chemical reaction to the 2K engine primer and engine paint I will be using. If you dont think there would be a problem leaving the grey paint on the inside I have no problem doing it as it would save me time as I can simply wirebrush the exterior of the pain to bare metal. The lip I am not too concerned with as I got the pan rail stiffeners from Ford Racing as I have the Felpro one piece rubber gasket I will be using. Im tempted to paint the pain first leaving the rail stiffeners black along with the ARP bolts. Not like youd see that unless you crawl under the truck. But everything else I am tempted into painting after assembly. I really would want it painted - or powder coated as I did. That's because there will be moisture in the pan at times, and a bare pan might rust. I think the gray paint will be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 I really would want it painted - or powder coated as I did. That's because there will be moisture in the pan at times, and a bare pan might rust. I think the gray paint will be fine. Ill let it be then and just keep an eye on it then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Found a NOS oil pan guy is a little outrageous for the price hes wanting of $175 between oil pan and shipping then that doesnt include the tax that would be charged at checkout as well. Sent him a offer of $55 for the oil pan which would bring his $45 shipping to a grand total of $100 which I think is well over enough for a NOS oil pan when one can buy Dorman replacement stock oil pans for $40 - $45 with free shipping. Hopefully he takes it cause I would prefer a NOS OE pan over a dorman but not so much so that I will willingly allow myself to be ripped off. Damn, Spectra Premium doesn't have a pan for it? The ones for the 460s are late 90s design with the push in dipstick tube and come from Ford Racing with one piece gasket, pickup, main cap bolt with pickup stud, dipstick tube and dipstick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Damn, Spectra Premium doesn't have a pan for it? The ones for the 460s are late 90s design with the push in dipstick tube and come from Ford Racing with one piece gasket, pickup, main cap bolt with pickup stud, dipstick tube and dipstick. Bill, Ford offers a rear sump kit for the 302, with pickup and dipstick. It's $180 Amazon Prime. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Racing-M6675A58-Rear-Quart/dp/B000CESEZM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Damn, Spectra Premium doesn't have a pan for it? The ones for the 460s are late 90s design with the push in dipstick tube and come from Ford Racing with one piece gasket, pickup, main cap bolt with pickup stud, dipstick tube and dipstick. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n93923/DSCN1265.jpg I didnt see a Spectra Premium listing for a oil pan all I could find for my specific truck application was the following. Liland Global IFP01A ATP 103023 Pioneer 501037 Dorman 264-002 And a bunch of no name listings from ebay that are most likely chinese copies. If there is a spectra brand I didnt see it and if I had seen it I would have went with it. I use spectra at work and I havent seen any fitment issues with them before and my 85/86 fuel tank for my EFI conversion is going to be a spectra premium brand tank as well. Sender how ever is going to be a NOS unit as I know my current aftermarket replacement sender isnt exact like original on resistance so gauge reads proper at full and empty but inbetween its not accurate. But there is nothing I can do now how ever, I already got the guy to come down on his price by $50 and paid for the NOS oil pan. Only thing is the timing cover that I have left, I dont know if I want to trust the dorman unit I picked up for $50 or get the Ford Racing one for $150. I personally have had luck with dorman in the past but everyone else I knows speaks of horror with dorman products same as cardone, ive had luck with them but everyone else swears they are junk with all kinds of problems. Considering how much money I have in this engine build already I really dont want to go with a product that may give me trouble down the line and require engine disassembly or out right removal of said engine to fix a problem. Its why I got a hardened oil pump driveshaft since the OE ones were known to be a weak link. Its also the reason why I went with Scorpion roller rockers as they have a life time warranty on them and many people that had to have a problem resolved Scorpion sent them a whole new set out after they sent their set in for warranty with no problems. So I am kind of tempted to get the Ford Racing timing cover and then just unload the Dorman unit some how to get my money back on that or maybe use that on my 351W as that is a front mount dipstick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Bill, Ford offers a rear sump kit for the 302, with pickup and dipstick. It's $180 Amazon Prime. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Racing-M6675A58-Rear-Quart/dp/B000CESEZM Would a foxbody mustang oil pan fit in our trucks? It was a question I had when I was going to get the shortblock Plus from blueprint they only have it with a foxbody mustang oil pan but no one could state if the oil pan would clear the frame on a truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Bill, Ford offers a rear sump kit for the 302, with pickup and dipstick. It's $180 Amazon Prime. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Racing-M6675A58-Rear-Quart/dp/B000CESEZM Would a foxbody mustang oil pan fit in our trucks? It was a question I had when I was going to get the shortblock Plus from blueprint they only have it with a foxbody mustang oil pan but no one could state if the oil pan would clear the frame on a truck. In the Q&A Mike says it fits his '83 F-150, so I don't see why it wouldn't fit any 1989 & up F-series chassis using a Windsor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 In the Q&A Mike says it fits his '83 F-150, so I don't see why it wouldn't fit any 1989 & up F-series chassis using a Windsor. Thats good to know then. I was curious about it at the time, but seeing as I already talked the guy down $50 on his price and committed to buying and actually already paid for the NOS oil pan its something that I cant change now. But it would have made life easier on me putting a windage tray in but I skipped the windage tray cause I kept hearing that main studs wont fit with the OE truck pan as youll have to use bolts on the rear main as the pan kicks towards the sump fairly quickly in an attempt to act as a baffle to keep the pickup submerged at angles. Youd think they would make a windage tray kit that uses OE style bolts with a stud coming up off the head of the bolt. They use one for the oil pump pickup tube and the windage tray isnt anything to write home about structurally no different than the oil pump pickup. Its also like ARP, I would love to get the timing cover/water pump bolt kit they sell but I dont see any OE style bolts with the stud on the top I have to double check my truck but I believe there is one or two like that for the dealer A/C bracket to bolt to via a nut. The other thing I am kind of throwing around in my head lately is on the painting. Initially I had planned on assembling the motor as much as possible and using Eastwood 2K engine primer and 2K dark ford corporate blue on everything from aluminum intake to my ARP aluminum heads down to the oil pan. But now I am wondering if I should omit the intake manifold and pick up some 2K engine paint in an aluminum color to preserve the bare look of the aluminum intake. Im also wondering how I could grind the intake down to remove the 289 off the intake runner as I really dont like how the 289/302 Performer Intake still says Performer 289. Would have got the one that said Performer 302 but it lacks the extra boss for drilling into the water jacket for an extra temp sensor which I need for my Sniper Stealth, then the vacuum port in the back of the intake is right where the OE throttle bracket will go which means I cant hook up my OE vacuum tree to provide vacuum for my OE systems like the brake booster and the vacuum modulator on the transmission. Was kind of forced into running the Performer I got which sucks, I know I can grind the 289 off and in fact i could grind the Performer name off as well but not sure how I could duplicate the cast aluminum texture where I grind to blend it all in but I have time to think on this as I am still waiting on my engine stand to come in as my current engine stand is still being used for my other project and I still havent got my short block from Creb Engineering I dont know whats going on but I dont want to bother him with constant emails so I am waiting till the 30 day time frame is up to contact him and see whats going on with my build. I know its quite possible he is back logged waiting on parts, lots of parts are out of stock right now when you go looking on jegs or summit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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