Gsmblue Posted April 6, 2021 Share Posted April 6, 2021 First round of parts purchased for Elyza (F350): Horn PIAA 330Hz/400Hz Valve cover gaskets Front window and door seals Door pockets Passanger front fender emblems. Espy in shop getting engine torn down. Is that door glass you purchased? If so, can I ask where you acquired it from and are you pleased with it. Also, who is the maker of the door seals you purchased from? Thanks! Sorry, not glass, just the rubber seals and felt runners from bronco graveyard. As I am here: The PIAA super bass horns are fun. Not too loud or deep. Definitely better than the factory stock single note beeper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Got the shift indicator in today, also the gauge regulator, and speedo w/ trip reset. I need to know what the in/out voltage on the regulator is supposed to be. 95% full fuel, 50 psi oil@ 500rpm as per mechanical gauge. The regulator is wired as per instructions on Gary's writeup. I'm thinking the amp,and oil are the only properly working gauges. Fuel,oil,temp were at zero before. FWIW, temp sender ohms changes with engine heat change. Bill The ammeter has nothing to do with the ICVR. The regulator should be set wherever a test resistor puts the gauge inn the right place. I believe Gary has his SWAD-J set around 5.25V. But you should check his analysis. The other three senders (or four, with dual tanks) should read 10-70 ohms. So it could be you're senders are flakey, or it could be your gauges are out of adjustment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 The ammeter has nothing to do with the ICVR. The regulator should be set wherever a test resistor puts the gauge inn the right place. I believe Gary has his SWAD-J set around 5.25V. But you should check his analysis. The other three senders (or four, with dual tanks) should read 10-70 ohms. So it could be you're senders are flakey, or it could be your gauges are out of adjustment Jim, I think I remember seeing an article on how to test, and calibrate F100 gauges but don't remember where. If anyone has a link, please post. 5.25v sounds like what I remember reading, I'm reading 10.xx on both in/out terminals. I will do a google and see if I can find the article. Also, when I had the tank off, I checked the resistance on the float, don't remember what the values were but it changed when moving the float. Thanks, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Jim, I think I remember seeing an article on how to test, and calibrate F100 gauges but don't remember where. If anyone has a link, please post. 5.25v sounds like what I remember reading, I'm reading 10.xx on both in/out terminals. I will do a google and see if I can find the article. Also, when I had the tank off, I checked the resistance on the float, don't remember what the values were but it changed when moving the float. Thanks, Bill Bill, you really need a load (resistor) to pull the regulator down. Just like the coil wire, it will not drop without a greater load than a meter provides. Look for Gary's EVTM replacement thread on FTE. He had all the info and resistor values there. You can also look in the EVTM's on this site. The diagnostic steps are laid out A, B, C,... there at the back of whatever section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted April 7, 2021 Share Posted April 7, 2021 Jim, I think I remember seeing an article on how to test, and calibrate F100 gauges but don't remember where. If anyone has a link, please post. 5.25v sounds like what I remember reading, I'm reading 10.xx on both in/out terminals. I will do a google and see if I can find the article. Also, when I had the tank off, I checked the resistance on the float, don't remember what the values were but it changed when moving the float. Thanks, Bill On the topic of gauges... Here's a "What have done to my truck to ruin my lunch hour" one. Took an extended lunch break since my wife and I were scheduled to get vaccinated. Picked her up, got our shots, went to the wendy's drive thru to get lunch (she insisted, I'm not huge on Wendy's personally)... darn thing stalls, out of gas (confirmed by an empty fuel filter, and by how long it took to get fuel to the carb after refilling). Had to push it to a parking spot. Luckily, I lived close by and my boss gave us a ride home and me a ride to gas can the truck. Apparently, my fuel gauge is no longer "isn't needing filled until the needle is below E"... stalled right on E. After loading part of a 5 gallon can (I was impatient), I drove it to the nearest gas station and it took another 17.8 gallons. She was OUT. Should have done better math and known that despite several highway miles on the tank, around town I only get 9-12MPG (probably due to all the drive thru's I go to?)... 190 miles on the trip odometer, and that's 10% low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted April 8, 2021 Share Posted April 8, 2021 Nothing directly on my truck but I have been doing a bunch of looking. Been looking at flexplates for my truck as I didnt want to reuse my old one, when I drained my converter to do a fluid change few years back I had to tighten up the converter nuts a couple were some what loose. I also noticed the face side of the ring gear was worn quite a bit, its the original flexplate from when the truck was new. Problem is I cant find a good aftermarket brand that is overly built for my application. Based off the parts and illustration guide it looks like mine should be the 164-tooth flex plate for my C6/302 combination and it has to be 50oz imbalance. There is only one part number for the '81 and up C6 flex plate which is E1TZ-6375-C which a search online brought up the ATP Z-193 flexplate with that part number as its interchange, its a 14.23" OD flex plate 164-tooth and 50oz imbalance with a 11 1/2" torque converter hole spread. I did some more searching and I found TCI has a 164 tooth 50oz flexplate under the number 529620 but that had 2 1/2 stars on Summit with 7 reviews. Two of the 1 star reviews cite bad vibrations and the third 1 star review cited it didnt fit their converter that it was out of spec by 1/16". There is one 2 star review that it was welded poorly and the counter weight wasnt welded flat and had a gap on one end of it and it was so horribly welded it wouldnt clear the starter or the block plate. The final bad review was a 3 star that stated they werent happy at all as the flexplate had to be modified to work. For me the bad vibrations is troubling and they arent the oldest reviews those were made in 2018 and the newest review is from 2019. The three newest reviews are bad reviews. Even on Google its still 3 1/2 stars with 27 reviews with the newest one posted 8 months ago where the guy went through two of them firs tone was 0.040" run out second was 0.025" run out he ended up tossing both of them and using a stock style flexplate. the ATP one on google has no reviews outside of summit with 2 reviews at 2 1/2 stars. One was a 4 star review stating good fit the other was a 1 star review stating his didnt come with a counter weight it appeared to have been drilled out. So for me I am still on the hunt for a good quality flexplate otherwise I might just take a chance on the Pioneer brand HD flexplate on Rockauto number FRA214HD which is a 50oz imbalance with 164 teeth for $64.79. I just hate to use such a cheap flexplate when I will be running a Hughes XTM tow converter. Im also still looking at dampners as well, I still am leaning towards the Dayco Street Performance balancer that is laser etched in 10* ATDC to 50* BTDC with another mark at 90* BTDC. But I did find a 50 oz imbalance TCI Rattler but no confirmation on if it will work with the alignment pointers on our trucks, the PB1084ST will work as its for a 11 o'clock timing pointer. Couldnt find any information on the pointer location on the Rattler. Im also looking at the welding rods that gets shown on fb and youtube from time to time that uses a simple propane torch that will weld up metal where the repair is stronger than the surrounding metal. Im thinking about getting some of this and using this to fix my split aircleaner housing and get by till I can source something better that is reasonably priced. Im also thinking about trying it for some improvised baffling on my fuel tank, at least if this works there will be no risk of burning a hole through the tank itself and I wouldnt have to go inside just use a magnet to hold the baffling in place and heat the exterior of the tank with the torch and apply the welding rod through the opening. Last thing I been looking at today is I found a dealership that has brand new the factory tow hooks for our trucks that bolt to the frame, they have both of them but with shipping and tax it comes out to $131.55 and I dont know if I want to spend that much or just wait on ebay for a set to be posted again with the hopes of it being cheaper. Aside from that, trying to get a engine stand from jegs, first one fedex lost the same day they picked it up in Ohio, I was credited back by Jegs after they looked into it and I re ordered it fedex picked it up early today and its scheduled to be delivered to me tomorrow which I just dont see cause there is no scan today saying it has left Ohio. I hope this one doesnt get lost cause I am running out of time, my engine I dont know if Creb Engineering got started on it yet or not but 20 to 30 days is what he is shooting for to get the engine builds out and for me which tomorrow April 8th would be 20 days from my payment and 30 days would be April 18. My engine build is fixing to get quite interesting and I will be updating my EFI thread I started I am going to roll in the engine build to that thread as well since my plan is to build the EFI hardline on the engine stand. I did find out how ever that he balances all engines he builds, so this short block will have a OE crank that is either OE size or resized if it needs it, magnafluxed OE rods that are reconditioned with Seal Power hyper flat top pistons. So if he balances it like I am informed the short block should be a smooth running build for me. Im just running out of time with so much to still do. I still have to order my Eastwood AN flaring turret and die set for my Eastwood bench flare tool so I can flare the annealed stainless steel 3/8" hardline to -6 AN flare for my connections. I also still have to get the OE 3/8 stainless steel supply line from inline tube for a long bed truck so I can chop it up and tweak it to fit in place of my OE 5/16" supply line. Still need to source the NOS 85/86 fuel tank sending unit. Gotta send out my headers to get them ceramic coated still and ship the distributor out to get it recurved. Still looking at Y pipes and I am just leaning towards getting one of the OE style replacement Y pipes with cat and just chop the cat off and straight pipe it. Maybe even go with 3" single pipe instead of 2 1/2", lots of reading Ive done many strongly suggest on our trucks and broncos to keep the down pipes OE 2 1/4" then after the merge enlarge from 2 1/2" to 3". Hopefully I can get back on track so I can stop stressing over all that I still need to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 8, 2021 Author Share Posted April 8, 2021 Jim, I think I remember seeing an article on how to test, and calibrate F100 gauges but don't remember where. If anyone has a link, please post. 5.25v sounds like what I remember reading, I'm reading 10.xx on both in/out terminals. I will do a google and see if I can find the article. Also, when I had the tank off, I checked the resistance on the float, don't remember what the values were but it changed when moving the float. Thanks, Bill Testing is explained at Documentation/Electrical/Gauges. The ICVR is explained at Documentation/Electrical/ICVR. But note that in the latter there's a link to FTE where I posted my testing of the right voltage across several gauges. However, if you fill your tank fully you could adjust your ICVR to read Full on your gas gauge and assume the temp and oil pressure gauges are happy as well. There are no numbers on them, so it isn't critical. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted April 8, 2021 Share Posted April 8, 2021 Testing is explained at Documentation/Electrical/Gauges. The ICVR is explained at Documentation/Electrical/ICVR. But note that in the latter there's a link to FTE where I posted my testing of the right voltage across several gauges. However, if you fill your tank fully you could adjust your ICVR to read Full on your gas gauge and assume the temp and oil pressure gauges are happy as well. There are no numbers on them, so it isn't critical. Gary, I did the DE-SWAD unit, also replaced the speedo with a trip odometer unit, the in volt is 10.5, out will not go below 9.44v. I checked the other gauges I have, all were 13/14 ohm, that tells me that part is ok,(this is on another cluster I have) I'm gonna leave it alone for a while, wait til I'm in a better mood for tediousness. Don't know where the oil should read @ 50psi, as you can see, it reads @ the high line, the fuel is 1/4 full reading on a 95% full tank, maybe the sending unit, the temp doe's not move at all, gotta get away from it for a while. Thanks for the info/advise from all. On a good note, the weather has been fabulous here for the last few days...YEEEEHAW scbill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 Sorry, not glass, just the rubber seals and felt runners from bronco graveyard. As I am here: The PIAA super bass horns are fun. Not too loud or deep. Definitely better than the factory stock single note beeper. Glad to hear you like the PIAA horns. Have been looking at them every now and then. So your truck had the single horn originally? These are 85115? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 10, 2021 Author Share Posted April 10, 2021 Gary, I did the DE-SWAD unit, also replaced the speedo with a trip odometer unit, the in volt is 10.5, out will not go below 9.44v. I checked the other gauges I have, all were 13/14 ohm, that tells me that part is ok,(this is on another cluster I have) I'm gonna leave it alone for a while, wait til I'm in a better mood for tediousness. Don't know where the oil should read @ 50psi, as you can see, it reads @ the high line, the fuel is 1/4 full reading on a 95% full tank, maybe the sending unit, the temp doe's not move at all, gotta get away from it for a while. Thanks for the info/advise from all. On a good note, the weather has been fabulous here for the last few days...YEEEEHAW scbill You either have a bad regulator or have wired it incorrectly. Do you have it grounded? You have to get the output voltage down to about 5.4 or your gauges will read very high - which is what you are seeing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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