Rusty_S85 Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 $51USD unfortunately. And Iām in Canada http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/face-with-open-mouth-vomiting-23x23_orig.png $51 isnt too bad for Greene, I paid nearly $200 for two NOS tail lights for my flareside. I got this one off ebay for $35 but its a Ford replacement style that actually has a T10 wedge bulb for the side marker light and I couldnt find the driver side like it so hence I was forced to spend $200 and buy the two NOS ones from Greene to have a matched pair. If I can find the driverside one with the T10 side marker bulb I will swap those on my truck as I never did like how the rear side markers got light from the 1157 bulb meaning they would get brighter when you step on the brake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HrdAngln Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 Finish rebuilding the steering coloum and putting it back in. Started off as a ignition switch going bad and a bad actauter rod, ended up pulling the whole thing and rebuilding the whole coloum Did you have to pull the steering wheel to do the ignition switch? I am trying to do mine right now and after 15 minutes of yoga moves under the dash, its not clear what my next step is... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 Finish rebuilding the steering coloum and putting it back in. Started off as a ignition switch going bad and a bad actauter rod, ended up pulling the whole thing and rebuilding the whole coloum Did you have to pull the steering wheel to do the ignition switch? I am trying to do mine right now and after 15 minutes of yoga moves under the dash, its not clear what my next step is... The wheel doesn't have to come off to change the ignition switch as it is well down on top of the steering column. Have you seen the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition? Click on the Ignition Switch tab and you'll see an illustration that shows where it is and how to replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 The wheel doesn't have to come off to change the ignition switch as it is well down on top of the steering column. Have you seen the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition? Click on the Ignition Switch tab and you'll see an illustration that shows where it is and how to replace it. Spent some time today removing the 4x4 rear sway bar link brackets from my sections of junk frame. It didn't take me long to realize that my 4x2 frame doesn't have holes for the brackets. Apparently sway bar links mount differently on 4x2 trucks and Broncos. The more I start trying to add F250/F350 4x4 stuff to this truck the more I realize that *almost* NONE of the holes in a F250/F350 4x4 frame are there on a 4x2 frame, with exception to things they share in common. The single exception I've found is that the 4x2 frames have the holes for the F250/F350 4x4 brake line brackets. Luckily all frames seem to have the holes for the auxiliary spring brackets, so I cut my scrap pieces of frame in a way that will allow me to use them as a template for drilling the holes for the sway bar link brackets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 Spent some time today removing the 4x4 rear sway bar link brackets from my sections of junk frame. It didn't take me long to realize that my 4x2 frame doesn't have holes for the brackets. Apparently sway bar links mount differently on 4x2 trucks and Broncos. The more I start trying to add F250/F350 4x4 stuff to this truck the more I realize that *almost* NONE of the holes in a F250/F350 4x4 frame are there on a 4x2 frame, with exception to things they share in common. The single exception I've found is that the 4x2 frames have the holes for the F250/F350 4x4 brake line brackets. Luckily all frames seem to have the holes for the auxiliary spring brackets, so I cut my scrap pieces of frame in a way that will allow me to use them as a template for drilling the holes for the sway bar link brackets. Talking about the side vs bottom attaching points? Smart thinking with making a template using other matching holes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 It didn't take me long to realize that my 4x2 frame doesn't have holes for the brackets. Apparently sway bar links mount differently on 4x2 trucks and Broncos. I thought that the Bronco's and 4x2 F150's used the same rear swaybar end links, no? I know that the 4x4 and 4x2 F150's are different, but I thought for some reason that because of the Bronco's short wheelbase, they utilized the same end links as the 4x2 trucks. Maybe the holes are in different locations? There was a guy on FTE not too long ago removed a rear swaybar assembly from a Bronco and installed it on a 4x2 F150. It looked like it was hanging lower, but I couldn't really tell tbh.Ā Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 It didn't take me long to realize that my 4x2 frame doesn't have holes for the brackets. Apparently sway bar links mount differently on 4x2 trucks and Broncos. I thought that the Bronco's and 4x2 F150's used the same rear swaybar end links, no? I know that the 4x4 and 4x2 F150's are different, but I thought for some reason that because of the Bronco's short wheelbase, they utilized the same end links as the 4x2 trucks. Maybe the holes are in different locations? There was a guy on FTE not too long ago removed a rear swaybar assembly from a Bronco and installed it on a 4x2 F150. It looked like it was hanging lower, but I couldn't really tell tbh. You're correct, my post is a little confusing but that's what I meant, the 4x2 and Bronco sway bars mount differently than the 4x4 F-Series trucks. I put a Bronco sway bar and links on my F150 after I 4x4 swapped it and had no clue that Bronco sway bar links are not correct for a 4x4 F150. It worked fine though and didn't require any special brackets. Ā Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 It didn't take me long to realize that my 4x2 frame doesn't have holes for the brackets. Apparently sway bar links mount differently on 4x2 trucks and Broncos. I thought that the Bronco's and 4x2 F150's used the same rear swaybar end links, no? I know that the 4x4 and 4x2 F150's are different, but I thought for some reason that because of the Bronco's short wheelbase, they utilized the same end links as the 4x2 trucks. Maybe the holes are in different locations? There was a guy on FTE not too long ago removed a rear swaybar assembly from a Bronco and installed it on a 4x2 F150. It looked like it was hanging lower, but I couldn't really tell tbh. You're correct, my post is a little confusing but that's what I meant, the 4x2 and Bronco sway bars mount differently than the 4x4 F-Series trucks. I put a Bronco sway bar and links on my F150 after I 4x4 swapped it and had no clue that Bronco sway bar links are not correct for a 4x4 F150. It worked fine though and didn't require any special brackets. Lunch break and time to change frozen socks on another snow day here in Connecticut. I got some starter gears and bearings. A new accelerator pump piston. But find the bore looks fine. The carb is FULL of garbage though. Glad I changed the filter when I put the Holley on! I also looked over the MeterMatch instructions and made up a harness. My gauge hardly works anyhow, and I can connect the two wires of it together for now. I determined these are the three I need. Okay, time for dry socks and back out to winter wonderland. š Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 Lunch break and time to change frozen socks on another snow day here in Connecticut. I got some starter gears and bearings. A new accelerator pump piston. But find the bore looks fine. The carb is FULL of garbage though. Glad I changed the filter when I put the Holley on! I also looked over the MeterMatch instructions and made up a harness. My gauge hardly works anyhow, and I can connect the two wires of it together for now. I determined these are the three I need. Okay, time for dry socks and back out to winter wonderland. š Yep, that's exactly where I cut in to put my Meter Match. Man, that carb looks UGLY! I'll bet the accelerator pump's check ball wasn't sealing. But the bore is still good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 Yep, that's exactly where I cut in to put my Meter Match. Man, that carb looks UGLY! I'll bet the accelerator pump's check ball wasn't sealing. But the bore is still good? It seems so. I poked around with a little pen light. But the last thing I want today is to be in the snow covered in scunge and carb cleaner. Once I tap the cluster and tape it back up I'll go in the tack room and replace the drives in those starters. Hopefully I'll find a place to pull my engine and replace the ring gear before it's completely shot (or I chew up these three again) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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