WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[JG2020]

Josh, I'm surprised you don't just swap a electric choke cap.Do you like manual choke?Or do you see it as an anti-theft system?

I like the idea of a manual choke. I guess I could I could try an electric choke cap also.  I’ll look online and check them out. Amazing how a closed choke makes such a difference starting the truck.  The manual choke looks like a pain to install also. 

 

On Tue, Oct 27, 2020 at 1:39 PM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter-1-Barrel-Ford-Truck-Electric-Choke-Thermostat-TH1013_p_452.html

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/YF-Choke-System_ep_1854.html

If the heat hose is disconnected remember to cap the carburetor, otherwise it will be pulling cold air over the spring.

 

[JG2020]

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter-1-Barrel-Ford-Truck-Electric-Choke-Thermostat-TH1013_p_452.html

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/YF-Choke-System_ep_1854.html

If the heat hose is disconnected remember to cap the carburetor, otherwise it will be pulling cold air over the spring.

Thanks very much Jim!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks very much Jim!

You're welcome!

Mike's has a bunch of great videos on rebuilding and adjusting carburetors.

They seem to always have what I need for Holley's and Edelbrocks, I don't know so much about YF's.

Do note that the choke tightens counterclockwise...

[scbill]

You're welcome!

Mike's has a bunch of great videos on rebuilding and adjusting carburetors.

They seem to always have what I need for Holley's and Edelbrocks, I don't know so much about YF's.

Do note that the choke tightens counterclockwise...

Thanks for info on 1 bbl, now, if I can fine if the base of the AOD carb will work on the non AOD carb.

Bill

[Nothing Special]

That sounds like a battle Bob, but it seems you've won the war!

Any commentary on the universals?

Cause?

Brand?

Things to avoid, or do to help?

I'm looking at having to replace mine before I really need 4wd this season.

Passenger side is just a rusty cross rattling around in the caps.

Nothing even resembling a bearing.

The war's not quite over, but I think the major battles have been won, so I'm optimistic.

I don't know the brand of the U-joints. I've heard Spicer are best, so I'm hoping to find some. Also these were greaseable. I've heard that most people think the lubed-for-life versions are better. And in confession, I forgot that these were greaseable, so I never greased them after installation. I don't know how much greasing would've helped, but I'm sure I didn't do them any favors.

Things to avoid? Don't lose your temper and beat on the yokes indiscriminately with the big hammer. I probably am going to have to do some clean-up to get the new caps and retaining rings to fit.

Things that help? A few:

• Soak the retaining rings in penetrating oil before you try to remove them (I'm talking about the "external" style I have that go inside the bore of the yoke so they're really internal retaining rings but they go outside of the caps so people call them external). Days would probably be best, but anything you can do will probably help (for me it was under an hour, and it allowed me to be "successful" on 6 of 8).

• Take a small, flat-faced punch and rap on the retaining rings, pounding them toward the cap.

  They can't go anywhere that direction, but it might loosen them up.

• Try first to pull them out with a pair of pliers. 2 of mine did come out that way (with a little more rapping in the tight places). But when that doesn't work...

• Use the small punch to try to knock each "tab" in, to pull the ring out of the groove. Chances are that the ring will break somewhere, getting a small piece out. But then do the same on the other "tab".

• You'll probably be left with a section still stuck in after you've broken the two ends off. Use the punch to try to drive that around the circle. On 4 of mine that eventually made that section pop out, meaning that the entire retaining ring was out.

• Heat the thin section of the yoke and then soak the cap with penetrating oil before removing the caps. Again, more time is probably better, but any is better than none.

• It's probably better to use a hydraulic press to push the caps out. But I supported one yoke on a vice and beat on the other with a big hammer. It took a LOT more beating than I expected to get them out (especially with how much anti-seize I used only 4 years ago). But they did all come out.

• On the caps where the retaining rings wouldn't come out, use a cutoff wheel to cut through the cross. Then use a bigger flat-faced punch to push the cap in through the center of the yoke. Then use a punch to try to knock the retaining ring in to the center.

I fought through this same process 4 years ago. It went a lot faster this time because I knew what to do. But it still was no fun.

Today I got the driver's side U-joint installed. I took the axle shafts and U-joint to work where I could use an arbor press instead of a big hammer. Yeah, the hammer works, but it's so hard to keep everything where it belongs (especially all those little needles). It goes so much smoother and easier with a press!

But not faster. I didn't pack up everything, so I only got the one U-joint in. If I was working with a hammer at home I'd have gone right into the other. Oh well, I'll bring it to work tomorrow.

I did have one hiccup. First I put both caps into the outer stub, holding the cross in place of course. But when you press the caps in far enough to get the retaining rings in you end up with it too tight. No problem, we'll get that later.

So then I put the caps in the inner axle. Same thing again where it's too tight after getting the retaining rings in.

So this is where the big hammer still comes into play. Hold the assembly by the end of the outer stub and give a firm whack to each side of that yoke. Halfway there, it moves freely on that axis now! Then hold the inner axle and give each side of that yoke a whack. First one goes fine, second is followed by a PING! as the retaining ring flies across the room . I guess that one wasn't seated very well.

So I pressed the cap back in (too tight again of course) and tried to clean out the groove better. Put the ring back in (at least I found it on the other side of the room!) and whack it again. The ring didn't fly out this time, but it definitely wasn't seated.

Third time (I hope) was the charm. It's in, everything moves freely and the retaining ring is still in the groove. But I'm a little concerned that the edge of that groove might be damaged and the ring might not hold well. So I'll have to keep an eye on it to see if it gets thrown. If it does I'm afraid I'll need to replace that axle shaft. But I'll cross that bridge if I come to it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Today I got the driver's side U-joint installed. I took the axle shafts and U-joint to work where I could use an arbor press instead of a big hammer. Yeah, the hammer works, but it's so hard to keep everything where it belongs (especially all those little needles). It goes so much smoother and easier with a press!

But not faster. I didn't pack up everything, so I only got the one U-joint in. If I was working with a hammer at home I'd have gone right into the other. Oh well, I'll bring it to work tomorrow.

I did have one hiccup. First I put both caps into the outer stub, holding the cross in place of course. But when you press the caps in far enough to get the retaining rings in you end up with it too tight. No problem, we'll get that later.

So then I put the caps in the inner axle. Same thing again where it's too tight after getting the retaining rings in.

So this is where the big hammer still comes into play. Hold the assembly by the end of the outer stub and give a firm whack to each side of that yoke. Halfway there, it moves freely on that axis now! Then hold the inner axle and give each side of that yoke a whack. First one goes fine, second is followed by a PING! as the retaining ring flies across the room . I guess that one wasn't seated very well.

So I pressed the cap back in (too tight again of course) and tried to clean out the groove better. Put the ring back in (at least I found it on the other side of the room!) and whack it again. The ring didn't fly out this time, but it definitely wasn't seated.

Third time (I hope) was the charm. It's in, everything moves freely and the retaining ring is still in the groove. But I'm a little concerned that the edge of that groove might be damaged and the ring might not hold well. So I'll have to keep an eye on it to see if it gets thrown. If it does I'm afraid I'll need to replace that axle shaft. But I'll cross that bridge if I come to it.

Progress is good!

At least you found that lock ring trying to escape.

With my luck it would roll across the floor and go right down the drain while I watch, stunned and still holding the axle.

I always run a dental pick around in the grooves and try to flush or blow them out.

I will probably be using a bench vise and some sockets to press mine in.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Today I got the driver's side U-joint installed. I took the axle shafts and U-joint to work where I could use an arbor press instead of a big hammer. Yeah, the hammer works, but it's so hard to keep everything where it belongs (especially all those little needles). It goes so much smoother and easier with a press!

But not faster. I didn't pack up everything, so I only got the one U-joint in. If I was working with a hammer at home I'd have gone right into the other. Oh well, I'll bring it to work tomorrow.

I did have one hiccup. First I put both caps into the outer stub, holding the cross in place of course. But when you press the caps in far enough to get the retaining rings in you end up with it too tight. No problem, we'll get that later.

So then I put the caps in the inner axle. Same thing again where it's too tight after getting the retaining rings in.

So this is where the big hammer still comes into play. Hold the assembly by the end of the outer stub and give a firm whack to each side of that yoke. Halfway there, it moves freely on that axis now! Then hold the inner axle and give each side of that yoke a whack. First one goes fine, second is followed by a PING! as the retaining ring flies across the room . I guess that one wasn't seated very well.

So I pressed the cap back in (too tight again of course) and tried to clean out the groove better. Put the ring back in (at least I found it on the other side of the room!) and whack it again. The ring didn't fly out this time, but it definitely wasn't seated.

Third time (I hope) was the charm. It's in, everything moves freely and the retaining ring is still in the groove. But I'm a little concerned that the edge of that groove might be damaged and the ring might not hold well. So I'll have to keep an eye on it to see if it gets thrown. If it does I'm afraid I'll need to replace that axle shaft. But I'll cross that bridge if I come to it.

I would laugh, out loud even, but it isn't funny. Been there, done that, went looking for the ring.

But the trick of hitting the yoke is a must. If not, things are tight/stiff. I try to use the dead blow hammer and hit the "corner". That seems to open the yoke up nicely.

Anyway, progress! I hope that retainer stays in - until you want it out.

 

[Nothing Special]

Progress is good!

At least you found that lock ring trying to escape.

With my luck it would roll across the floor and go right down the drain while I watch, stunned and still holding the axle.

I always run a dental pick around in the grooves and try to flush or blow them out.

I will probably be using a bench vise and some sockets to press mine in.

Yes it is!

I didn't have a dental pick, but I did have a very small flat-bladed screwdriver. I did try to clean out the groove with that before the first two times (as well as the three grooves that did hold their retaining rings). The third time I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel. That'll even clean out steel so I knew I needed to be careful.

Fingers crossed now!

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Progress is good!

At least you found that lock ring trying to escape.

With my luck it would roll across the floor and go right down the drain while I watch, stunned and still holding the axle.

I always run a dental pick around in the grooves and try to flush or blow them out.

I will probably be using a bench vise and some sockets to press mine in.

Yes it is!

I didn't have a dental pick, but I did have a very small flat-bladed screwdriver. I did try to clean out the groove with that before the first two times (as well as the three grooves that did hold their retaining rings). The third time I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel. That'll even clean out steel so I knew I needed to be careful.

Fingers crossed now!

It's very satisfying to watch the last one jump into place and know that that part is over.

When I had my transfer case apart in July and had to remove a bunch of really tight snap rings to get back at the sloppy selector quadrant I thought I was going to cry.

I hope the rest goes smoother!