WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Haven't you already tested for parasitic losses with the cab doors closed?

If you're having these types of trouble you really ought to disconnect the battery (you can get a switch for this)

Much cheaper than killing your battery. And you ARE killing your battery by letting it go/stay dead.

Changing the switch is very simple.

A couple of plugs and nuts is all.

Probably a ten minute job.

[JG2020]

Haven't you already tested for parasitic losses with the cab doors closed?If you're having these types of trouble you really ought to disconnect the battery (you can get a switch for this)Much cheaper than killing your battery. And you ARE killing your battery by letting it go/stay dead.

No, I have not checked for that yet. I actually found a battery disconnect I had purchased for a camper van the other day. I'll get that hooked up. Good idea 

 

On Tue, Sep 15, 2020, 8:52 AM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

 

 

[Gary Lewis]

I think my battery discharge issue is tied to my ignition switch. I have not driven this truck that much but today I had to move it for the street cleaner. The switch gets stuck in the start position unless I manually move it back. There are no idents or anything, it just rotates. While I was driving I was losing power and the radio was going off until I fiddled with it. I can't imagine it's a fun replacement? Or maybe I should consider a dash mount ignition and just leave the steering wheel unlocked.

So I am thinking it is not fully disengaging when I turn the key off or it goes past into the ACC position. The radio goes off but this seems to make sense still. I made sure it was in the off position 2 days ago and the batt had a full charge this morning.

Smells like it's running rich as heck also. After I get the timing done I will have to look at the carb adjustment.

You are probably onto something there. But I sure wouldn't put a dash-mounted switch on as it isn't all that hard to replace the ignition switch. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Ignition Switch tab for a lot of info on it.

There are at least two components that are involved - the key tumbler and associated linkage, and the switch itself. As you'll find, the switch sits on the column down near the firewall. In good shape it has detents in it and you can feel. But if it has gotten gummy inside or if the linkage to it is dry or gummy it might well not go back to the Run position. Or even Off.

And your experience with the radio, and I'll bet the turn signals and other things, indicates it isn't coming back to Run, or that the switch is maladjusted or just bad.

[JG2020]

You are probably onto something there. But I sure wouldn't put a dash-mounted switch on as it isn't all that hard to replace the ignition switch. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Ignition Switch tab for a lot of info on it.

There are at least two components that are involved - the key tumbler and associated linkage, and the switch itself. As you'll find, the switch sits on the column down near the firewall. In good shape it has detents in it and you can feel. But if it has gotten gummy inside or if the linkage to it is dry or gummy it might well not go back to the Run position. Or even Off.

And your experience with the radio, and I'll bet the turn signals and other things, indicates it isn't coming back to Run, or that the switch is maladjusted or just bad.

Thanks Gary! I will look into all that. As the components are pretty cheap might be better off just replacing them and be done with it. But I will def troubleshoot first.

[JG2020]

Thanks Gary! I will look into all that. As the components are pretty cheap might be better off just replacing them and be done with it. But I will def troubleshoot first.

Laid under the truck for a while with sand paper. No scribe marks but I found these 2 notches and one is close to my tdc nail polish mark. So I am thinking maybe a pulley was replaced or something?

Hard to tell but the second notch is about 70 degrees from the one closest to my TDC nail polish mark.

[JG2020]

Laid under the truck for a while with sand paper. No scribe marks but I found these 2 notches and one is close to my tdc nail polish mark. So I am thinking maybe a pulley was replaced or something?

Hard to tell but the second notch is about 70 degrees from the one closest to my TDC nail polish mark.

Little more info. I checked the timing with a light and my pink nail polish mark is right on 10 BTDC.

BUT that is assuming my mark is correct and it's not the v notch I found today about an inch from my mark.

Thanks!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Little more info. I checked the timing with a light and my pink nail polish mark is right on 10 BTDC.

BUT that is assuming my mark is correct and it's not the v notch I found today about an inch from my mark.

Thanks!

How are you determining 10* btdc?

Are you using a dial back timing light, or going by the scale on the pointer?

In all my years I've never been able to determine TDC from the piston without using a dial test indicator.

(Yes, it's usually enough to get you in the ballpark, but if you managed to land a mark at 10, you should go buy a lottery ticket! )

[JG2020]

How are you determining 10* btdc?

Are you using a dial back timing light, or going by the scale on the pointer?

In all my years I've never been able to determine TDC from the piston without using a dial test indicator.

(Yes, it's usually enough to get you in the ballpark, but if you managed to land a mark at 10, you should go buy a lottery ticket! )

Ha ha! With my luck I am sure this would be my only chance at a lottery ticket.

I was going by the mark on the sawtooth gauge. I have a nice electronic timing light I just bought but not sure how to use it really for advance. Is it set the light at -10 or the like and then you read the timing mark @ the 0 mark?

I stared at it for awhile to make sure it was at 10. I need to take it for a longer ride and see how it feels.

Still no seatbelts ( or at least I still need the female receivers to match the stock retractors) so not really safe to hit the road for a half hour drive.

 

[salans7]

Ha ha! With my luck I am sure this would be my only chance at a lottery ticket.

I was going by the mark on the sawtooth gauge. I have a nice electronic timing light I just bought but not sure how to use it really for advance. Is it set the light at -10 or the like and then you read the timing mark @ the 0 mark?

I stared at it for awhile to make sure it was at 10. I need to take it for a longer ride and see how it feels.

Still no seatbelts ( or at least I still need the female receivers to match the stock retractors) so not really safe to hit the road for a half hour drive.

 

Called Green Sales and ordered E0TZ-19C827-A since mine is trashed. There are now 28 left for anybody who may desire to replace theirs or purchase a spare for backup. I probably should have bought two since they're cheap enough, but I'll let other people who need them have a chance to buy one.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ha ha! With my luck I am sure this would be my only chance at a lottery ticket.

I was going by the mark on the sawtooth gauge. I have a nice electronic timing light I just bought but not sure how to use it really for advance. Is it set the light at -10 or the like and then you read the timing mark @ the 0 mark?

I stared at it for awhile to make sure it was at 10. I need to take it for a longer ride and see how it feels.

Still no seatbelts ( or at least I still need the female receivers to match the stock retractors) so not really safe to hit the road for a half hour drive.

 

There were no seatbelts in the truck you pulled the seat from???