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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Thanks Gary! I love the look of that seat. Makes the vintage really shine.

The previous owner did the alternator so I am not sure of voltage regulator. I can replace that.

I did rev the motor while measuring the batt voltage with my multimeter . Never got above 13.6 .

I guess the battery could be bad but it's less than 2 years old.

I found it strange that after charging the battery with a battery charger it was still dead a day or so later. I figured there must be a drain somewhere.

Josh, one item, charge you battery fully, then before you start the truck the next day (or try if the battery is down) put your hand on the alternator, if it feels hot or even pretty warm compared to other underhood items it most likely has one or more bad diodes.

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Josh, one item, charge you battery fully, then before you start the truck the next day (or try if the battery is down) put your hand on the alternator, if it feels hot or even pretty warm compared to other underhood items it most likely has one or more bad diodes.

And if you have a multimeter you can disconnect the charge cable and use the diode function, checking between the charge cable stud and the case of the alternator.

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And if you have a multimeter you can disconnect the charge cable and use the diode function, checking between the charge cable stud and the case of the alternator.

This assumes I know how to use my multimeter :nabble_smiley_beam:

I will check this out today.

So if a diode is bad it could cause the drain on my battery ?

Thanks !

 

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This assumes I know how to use my multimeter :nabble_smiley_beam:

I will check this out today.

So if a diode is bad it could cause the drain on my battery ?

Thanks !

That little arrow hitting a wall symbol.....

If you don't know, test with the probe colours in both directions (I.e. red on stud, black to case, and then black to stud, red to case)

Yes!

There is a rectifier inside the alternator.

This board with three (or three banks of) diodes takes alternating current -alternator- and rectify it into D.C. the battery and power systems of the truck can use.

If any of the diodes starts to break down, the battery is constantly connected, and can discharge back through them.

This doesn't necessarily mean the alternator won't charge.

Because when the alternator is putting out voltage it is (by design) putting out more than the 12.7 or so volts the battery should have.

Think of it this way... when the alternator is turning there is more pressure there than in the trucks electrical system.

The diodes are essentially check valves, and should only let current flow one way.

But if one of those check valves fails current can flow back through the alternator, when the alternator is not pumping out current.

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That little arrow hitting a wall symbol.....If you don't know, test with the probe colours in both directions (I.e. red on stud, black to case, and then black to stud, red to case)Yes!There is a rectifier inside the alternator.This board with three (or three banks of) diodes takes alternating current -alternator- and rectify it into D.C. the battery and power systems of the truck can use.If any of the diodes starts to break down, the battery is constantly connected, and can discharge back through them.This doesn't necessarily mean the alternator won't charge.Because when the alternator is putting out voltage it is (by design) putting out more than the 12.7 or so volts the battery should have.Think of it this way... when the alternator is turning there is more pressure there than in the trucks electrical system.The diodes are essentially check valves, and should only let current flow one way.But if one of those check valves fails current can flow back through the alternator, when the alternator is not pumping out current.
Wow. Thanks for the detailed explanation. Cool stuff. 

 

 

I will report back. 

 

 

Thanks 👍

 

On Sat, Sep 12, 2020, 7:24 AM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

 

 

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Well, it's a basic analogy that most people can understand.

Now you know a bit more about what's going on inside there. :nabble_smiley_good:

I'm not going into detail like electron potential or AC ripple superimposed on the direct current output.

Do have a look at the fender mounted regulator, like Gary suggested. 💡

If it doesn't look as new as the alternator it would be a good ~$15 spent, just to be sure your charging system is the best it can be.

 

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Well, it's a basic analogy that most people can understand.

Now you know a bit more about what's going on inside there. :nabble_smiley_good:

I'm not going into detail like electron potential or AC ripple superimposed on the direct current output.

Do have a look at the fender mounted regulator, like Gary suggested. 💡

If it doesn't look as new as the alternator it would be a good ~$15 spent, just to be sure your charging system is the best it can be.

Thanks Jim, I love to learn more of the details on how these things actually work.

I will check the volt reg but for $15 or so I'll prob grab a new one.

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Thanks Jim, I love to learn more of the details on how these things actually work.

I will check the volt reg but for $15 or so I'll prob grab a new one.

That's just my guess.

I see them go for $10-20.

IF you decide to replace it, bring a small piece of sandpaper or emery cloth to clean any rust or paint off where it gets mounted to the fender.

It is important for the regulator to have a good ground. :nabble_smiley_wink:

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That's just my guess.

I see them go for $10-20.

IF you decide to replace it, bring a small piece of sandpaper or emery cloth to clean any rust or paint off where it gets mounted to the fender.

It is important for the regulator to have a good ground. :nabble_smiley_wink:

The instrument cluster is done and installed, the dash is now complete. We decided to use the original steering column being i found a very good condition leather wrapped wheel just like he came with on ebay.

here is a short video of the instrument cluster and i show you whats going on with the steering column. It is the tilt mechanism. When nick bent the steering wheel, it started doing this. its been doing it since 1989 so i really dont think its an issue, as i understand this is a common problem with these columns. But since we have to pull the wheel, if there is any fix that anybody knows of I'd appreciate it.

and yes, i know i need to tighten my alternator belt:-)

https://youtu.be/cYSpS-a2wlA

 

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The instrument cluster is done and installed, the dash is now complete. We decided to use the original steering column being i found a very good condition leather wrapped wheel just like he came with on ebay.

here is a short video of the instrument cluster and i show you whats going on with the steering column. It is the tilt mechanism. When nick bent the steering wheel, it started doing this. its been doing it since 1989 so i really dont think its an issue, as i understand this is a common problem with these columns. But since we have to pull the wheel, if there is any fix that anybody knows of I'd appreciate it.

and yes, i know i need to tighten my alternator belt:-)

https://youtu.be/cYSpS-a2wlA

As I mentioned before, check all the bolts, unfortunately you may have to take the tilt mechanism apart to fix it. I can look in my 1986 manual (if I can find the correct volume) and copy it for you.

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