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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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That says a lot about how bulletproof and easily maintained these engines are.

There's a reason we see them used for farm pumps, welders & generators, aircraft tugs and big fork lifts.

Yep, filled the radiator, replaced the vacuum lines, and changed the oil just for insurance and it's been good to go for the last five years or so. I have been very happy with every Ford strait six cylinder engine I have owned over the years.

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Yep, filled the radiator, replaced the vacuum lines, and changed the oil just for insurance and it's been good to go for the last five years or so. I have been very happy with every Ford strait six cylinder engine I have owned over the years.

Thanks everyone . Great info. I will def stick with the stock fan and setup. Thanks for the illustration also. It does not look too hard to fabricate something and now I see how that radiator overflow hose gets routed also.

I looked around for the bolts to attach the seat to the floor but looks like LMS is out.

Does anyone know the bolt type that I need ? Maybe home depot or a website has them. I would guess it needs to be a certain strength rating also.

Happy Friday!

Josh

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Josh, I'll take a picture of my fan shroud tomorrow but it's merely nothing more than a plastic shield. My truck has the 300 and came with a heat only HVAC box, no AC. If you can't find one, a perfectly functional substitute will be very easy to fabricate.
Thanks Frank! That would be great to see an actual pic. 

 

On Thu, Sep 10, 2020, 9:46 PM Frank Wyatt [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

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Thanks everyone . Great info. I will def stick with the stock fan and setup. Thanks for the illustration also. It does not look too hard to fabricate something and now I see how that radiator overflow hose gets routed also.

I looked around for the bolts to attach the seat to the floor but looks like LMS is out.

Does anyone know the bolt type that I need ? Maybe home depot or a website has them. I would guess it needs to be a certain strength rating also.

Happy Friday!

Josh

Gary just mentioned this the other day in big blue's thread.

I'm thinking 8x1.25x25mm of threaded shank, pilot point but ill go check in a bit.

You don't necessarily need the reduced head, but having the strong flange is much better than trying to fight with washers.

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Gary just mentioned this the other day in big blue's thread.

I'm thinking 8x1.25x25mm of threaded shank, pilot point but ill go check in a bit.

You don't necessarily need the reduced head, but having the strong flange is much better than trying to fight with washers.

They are M10 bolts with a small hex and good sized flange.

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I just pulled one of these off a 300/6 truck 2 days ago.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n74209/6231D9BD-8A63-46DF-B521-1D71BF4746B9.jpeg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n74209/62A155DC-7DE3-4688-B627-B8E42CE91874.jpeg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n74209/A47B401F-5F09-4E17-945A-F57EF34E4E22.jpeg

That is great, Cory. If you plan to keep the one you have, here is one on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-Ford-F250-Top-Radiator-Fan-Shroud-Fan-Guard-OEM-E4TA-8A611-BA-F-S/324198630690?epid=1133522095&hash=item4b7bbe8522:g:8EUAAOSwUJNe5sXL

 

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That is great, Cory. If you plan to keep the one you have, here is one on eBay:

Ya, I grabbed this one at my friend Chris's for my 1980 Flareside project. I'm trying to make everything look like a factory-ish install when it's done;)

Thank you! I will prob grab that ebay one. Going to try and find bolts for the seat today also.

 

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