WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Gary Lewis]

Sorry about the exposure.

The benchtop is pretty shiny 😎

Yes, I cut the pinch clamp off the lower universal and used a die grinder to open up the hole.

I now have to figure how to weld the spline clamp you sent onto the remaining nub, while not deforming the yoke and not cooking the staked in universals.

AND, getting it in a line with the upper universal so the steering wheel stays straight.

The upper joint in my shaft is incredibly sloppy.

It's no wonder I'm often overcorrecting.

But that should be no issue when I weld the through bolt sleeve to the top.

At least ill have more room to keep the joint cool, and don't have to worry about clamping force distorting the yoke.

Jim - Got it. Thanks for the explanation. And, good look. Keeping all of those variables under control won't be easy.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Got it. Thanks for the explanation. And, good look. Keeping all of those variables under control won't be easy.

I may go turn up the MIG right now.

It would be cool if I could go install this at first light.

 

[Frank Wyatt]

I got my new to me argent wagon wheels installed today and I also replaced the "P" bolt for my under bed spare tire carrier. I coated the threads of the bolt with anti-seize to avoid any corrosion problems in the future. I also replaced some degraded vacuum lines on my air cleaner.

I thought about painting them white but the argent sort of ties the bumpers and running boards together. The color grew on me as I thought more about it. I'm very satisfied with them as is.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I may go turn up the MIG right now.

It would be cool if I could go install this at first light.

Okay.

I went out and attacked the steering shaft.

First I had to get the steering box spline on square with the upper U-joint.

You can see the orange paint stick sitting on the rear yoke (parallel to the table)

And now sitting on the front yoke:

I did a lot of tacking and then hogging out the joint to insure good penetration.

At times it was a challenge to keep the toe wet because solid forgings and 120V MIG .

Other end....

I had to turn down the heat because this collar is a stamping.

Hopefully I'm done with this and my steering feels tighter.

Time for a shower.

[Rembrant]

Okay.

I went out and attacked the steering shaft.

First I had to get the steering box spline on square with the upper U-joint.

You can see the orange paint stick sitting on the rear yoke (parallel to the table)

And now sitting on the front yoke:

I did a lot of tacking and then hogging out the joint to insure good penetration.

At times it was a challenge to keep the toe wet because solid forgings and 120V MIG .

Other end....

I had to turn down the heat because this collar is a stamping.

Hopefully I'm done with this and my steering feels tighter.

Time for a shower.

Well done Jim!

I was thinking of doing this very thing at one point. I have a Bricknose steering shaft installed in my '84, and it seems to be working well...I welded a couple nuts on the shaft tube so I could install set-screws to remove any and all slop from the slip joint. However, plan-B was to buy the joints and weld up a new shaft.

Do you still have a collapsing shaft? (So you can install it)

Is your steering wheel still centered?

Where did you get the parts?

[Gary Lewis]

Okay.

I went out and attacked the steering shaft.

First I had to get the steering box spline on square with the upper U-joint.

You can see the orange paint stick sitting on the rear yoke (parallel to the table)

And now sitting on the front yoke:

I did a lot of tacking and then hogging out the joint to insure good penetration.

At times it was a challenge to keep the toe wet because solid forgings and 120V MIG .

Other end....

I had to turn down the heat because this collar is a stamping.

Hopefully I'm done with this and my steering feels tighter.

Time for a shower.

Yes, well done! I think we need a how-to 'cause the replacements are so expensive and this is a much less expensive solution.

[86 12 Brutus]

Yes, well done! I think we need a how-to 'cause the replacements are so expensive and this is a much less expensive solution.

Great job Jim, looks really good.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well done Jim!

I was thinking of doing this very thing at one point. I have a Bricknose steering shaft installed in my '84, and it seems to be working well...I welded a couple nuts on the shaft tube so I could install set-screws to remove any and all slop from the slip joint. However, plan-B was to buy the joints and weld up a new shaft.

Do you still have a collapsing shaft? (So you can install it)

Is your steering wheel still centered?

Where did you get the parts?

Thanks Cory!

Yes, I took pains to make sure I cut enough off the ends that my new shaft was near the middle of its extension range when the bolts were 17 13/16" C-C.

I bought the steering shaft on eBay.

The whole thing was ~$20 delivered.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283633273798

Now that I see what I was in for, I would have been okay just cutting my shaft up.

But I was apprehensive going in without a way out....

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks Cory!

Yes, I took pains to make sure I cut enough off the ends that my new shaft was near the middle of its extension range when the bolts were 17 13/16" C-C.

I bought the steering shaft on eBay.

The whole thing was ~$20 delivered.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283633273798

Now that I see what I was in for, I would have been okay just cutting my shaft up.

But I was apprehensive going in without a way out....

Here we can see how much smaller diameter the Bricknose joint is than the /'86 style

[grumpin]

Here we can see how much smaller diameter the Bricknose joint is than the /'86 style

Nice work Jim!

More produce! Farm to Families program. Loading up at the Gospel Mission.