ArdWrknTrk Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 John, When you did the inner fender wells did you leave some good sized holes at the top of the arch where they rot out? This allows you to get at where all that salty road debris gets perched and holds water, because then at least you can flush it out easily with a hose. I sealed off part of it so water could not penetrate the junction where the inner fender meets to the body or outer fender. That is the area where things typically begin to rot. I also primed everything beginning with weld through primer in the welded areas and epoxy primer. I then sprayed a rubberized sealant on top of all that. It will never rust there again. I hate rust!!! I've never found weld through + undercoat to be effective. The rust blisters outlining my arch repair panels attest to that. (But I don't have any rot at the wheel wells!) Ill post pics, if you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 I've never found weld through + undercoat to be effective. The rust blisters outlining my arch repair panels attest to that. (But I don't have any rot at the wheel wells!) Ill post pics, if you like. Gotta strip the pan back to stainless and paint the block blue...but it's almost done. 500 horsepower never looked so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 Gotta strip the pan back to stainless and paint the block blue...but it's almost done. 500 horsepower never looked so good. Well, it'll look better with a blue block and stainless pan! You have that expensive lump on a bitty tricycle stand Angelo? You know better than to trust that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 Well, it'll look better with a blue block and stainless pan! You have that expensive lump on a bitty tricycle stand Angelo? You know better than to trust that. Absolutely it will. Was curious with the all black...don't like it. It needs blue!!! I did paint the cast iron water pump aluminum so that will help the sex appeal! Yes I know, but my primary stand with 2 legs I have, I happened to bend a caster flange moving my lump of a 429 around....don't crucify me LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 Gotta strip the pan back to stainless and paint the block blue...but it's almost done. 500 horsepower never looked so good.Congratulations! Â Â You must have a stirring in your pants just thinking about driving it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 Congratulations! / / You must have a stirring in your pants just thinking about driving it. My desktop dyno program with all the correct parameters inputted as far as valve timing/cam specs and air flow chart for my TFS heads says 514 horsepower and 514 ft-lbs. We were shooting for 500hp with a fairly "mild" build so I'll be happier than a pig in poo-poo when this lump of iron wakes the dead! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 Congratulations! / / You must have a stirring in your pants just thinking about driving it. My desktop dyno program with all the correct parameters inputted as far as valve timing/cam specs and air flow chart for my TFS heads says 514 horsepower and 514 ft-lbs. We were shooting for 500hp with a fairly "mild" build so I'll be happier than a pig in poo-poo when this lump of iron wakes the dead! "Mild", so not only will it last, it's going to OUTlast the next ten sets of tires you put on the truck! I hope your suspension mods get it to hook, and you don't spend too much on driveshaft and universals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 "Mild", so not only will it last, it's going to OUTlast the next ten sets of tires you put on the truck! I hope your suspension mods get it to hook, and you don't spend too much on driveshaft and universals. What's the deal with the air gap and the thermostat? Something doesn't look right to me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 "Mild", so not only will it last, it's going to OUTlast the next ten sets of tires you put on the truck! I hope your suspension mods get it to hook, and you don't spend too much on driveshaft and universals. I went a bit overkill on it, but really I did it for reliability. The bottom end and heads are studded and has ARP rod bolts. I put Cometic MLS head gaskets on it, King A's and Clevite 77 bearings, did a roller cam conversion using 302/351W roller parts etc. There is an awful lot of non-Ford parts in this thingy-mabob. Didn't want to go into this to spend $$$ and have it come apart. I wanted to do it once and not again for a while. You don't want to know what the bill is so far LOL. I didn't do a thing to the suspension except replace the front shocks and put a set of Lakewood traction bars on it with some 325/50/15 Nitto drag radial tires LOL. I'm taking the driveshaft to have it balanced and I get a set of Moog non-greasable universals. I wanted Spicer, but ordered locally and no one had them. The last real big things I need to do is call up the local Competition Transmission place and have my torque converter made and decide wether or not I want to buy a used/rebuild Winston cup locker for the rear end or put a brand new TrueTrac in it. Either way, there is no reason this truck shouldn't rip! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 What's the deal with the air gap and the thermostat? Something doesn't look right to me? That Air Gap intake is for a 351 Cleveland. Being that this is a 400 block I started with, the deck height is 1" taller, so I had to have custom CNC built intake adapters made by Price Motorsports to bridge the gap between the manifold ports and the cylinder heads...no different than if you tried to use a 302 intake on a 351W. I'm waiting on them to ship out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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