WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I haven't installed the fuel injection yet. Im doing a bunch of wiring upgrades to my aftermarket wiring by making it all into one nice harness. I know I have a little noise in my CB that requires me to turn the squelch up a little higher than if the truck is off. That is why I was thinking of doing the wiring on that since I will have the fuel pump power wire coming out of the same auxiliary fuse box that the CB will be wired into.

The fuel injection I am kind of worried about it as the ECU is mounted on the passengerside of the throttlebody and my coil is situated on the passengerside intake manifold. That might cause me a problem but I don't think it will as Ive installed snipers with the front mounted ECU on fords with no problem before. Im just thinking ahead since I will be making a new harness and wraping all my OE and aftermarket harnesses with the woven mesh loom material to clean everything up

The easiest way to do a shield and not have any of the "ground loop" issues is to keep both ends, and both sets of equipment on the same ground plane. If they are all hooked up to the same fuse box that end is on the same ground plane. The potential changes on one side when you add more joints between that ground and the other. For example being grounded to a fender that's not bonded well to a cab firewall where the other end of the ground is. Basically putting both ends back to the same grounding block in instances where you cannot control the quality of the overall chassis ground eliminates the difference of potential.

Using a single drain wire, aka the floating shield/ Single Point Ground (SPG) is one way people get around that potential interference but this method will induce current. I think a lot of people do it before they verify that hooking both ends up will cause an issue to begin with. What do you call a run of metal grounded at 1 end? An antenna for all intents and purposes.

I am not sure how your CB is set up but you should have something like RG8X or if your fancy LR400 coax running from your antenna to your receiver. That cable is double shielded and grounded through the connectors to both the receiver and the antenna. The Antenna is then grounded to the truck body to provide a ground plane for the antenna and the receiver to the chassis ground on the other end forming your ground loop already.

Current is going to flow in the shield no matter what, that is what it is there for. The concern about ground loops is that current overwhelms the shields capability and then starts radiating the wire it's supposed to protect. Another method I think I may have mentioned before, or it was in my botched post is guard wires. A guard wire is a decent gauge wire that acts like a shield does, just easier to install. You run a few of these along the wire bundle and they catch and dissipate EMI. Typically I have seen these attached or in near proximity to the wires that are causing the EMI and slightly spaced off of the wires that are affected by EMI.

Another method of combating EMI, which you wont see in your vehicle, is twisted pair wiring. The wire twist is enough not to mess with the signal wire but helps negate EMI especially when paired with shielding in the jacket.

You will probably find just as many arguments for each side especially with IP/OP Data installers.

Think about your high speed internet/cable. That coax is grounded on both ends at the connector, to a ground in the box outside to a copper rod in the ground, this is your houses ground. The equipement end is grounded to the chassis of the equipment, which is grounded to the wall plug, through your breaker panel to the same copper rod outside. That coax also most likely runs past many high amp power wires, and along side romex in your walls.

I'm going to wire my truck entirely in Greenfield, so when the EMP from Armageddon comes, my harness will survive the blast even if the truck melts around it.

[Rusty_S85]

I haven't installed the fuel injection yet. Im doing a bunch of wiring upgrades to my aftermarket wiring by making it all into one nice harness. I know I have a little noise in my CB that requires me to turn the squelch up a little higher than if the truck is off. That is why I was thinking of doing the wiring on that since I will have the fuel pump power wire coming out of the same auxiliary fuse box that the CB will be wired into.

The fuel injection I am kind of worried about it as the ECU is mounted on the passengerside of the throttlebody and my coil is situated on the passengerside intake manifold. That might cause me a problem but I don't think it will as Ive installed snipers with the front mounted ECU on fords with no problem before. Im just thinking ahead since I will be making a new harness and wraping all my OE and aftermarket harnesses with the woven mesh loom material to clean everything up

The easiest way to do a shield and not have any of the "ground loop" issues is to keep both ends, and both sets of equipment on the same ground plane. If they are all hooked up to the same fuse box that end is on the same ground plane. The potential changes on one side when you add more joints between that ground and the other. For example being grounded to a fender that's not bonded well to a cab firewall where the other end of the ground is. Basically putting both ends back to the same grounding block in instances where you cannot control the quality of the overall chassis ground eliminates the difference of potential.

Using a single drain wire, aka the floating shield/ Single Point Ground (SPG) is one way people get around that potential interference but this method will induce current. I think a lot of people do it before they verify that hooking both ends up will cause an issue to begin with. What do you call a run of metal grounded at 1 end? An antenna for all intents and purposes.

I am not sure how your CB is set up but you should have something like RG8X or if your fancy LR400 coax running from your antenna to your receiver. That cable is double shielded and grounded through the connectors to both the receiver and the antenna. The Antenna is then grounded to the truck body to provide a ground plane for the antenna and the receiver to the chassis ground on the other end forming your ground loop already.

Current is going to flow in the shield no matter what, that is what it is there for. The concern about ground loops is that current overwhelms the shields capability and then starts radiating the wire it's supposed to protect. Another method I think I may have mentioned before, or it was in my botched post is guard wires. A guard wire is a decent gauge wire that acts like a shield does, just easier to install. You run a few of these along the wire bundle and they catch and dissipate EMI. Typically I have seen these attached or in near proximity to the wires that are causing the EMI and slightly spaced off of the wires that are affected by EMI.

Another method of combating EMI, which you wont see in your vehicle, is twisted pair wiring. The wire twist is enough not to mess with the signal wire but helps negate EMI especially when paired with shielding in the jacket.

You will probably find just as many arguments for each side especially with IP/OP Data installers.

Think about your high speed internet/cable. That coax is grounded on both ends at the connector, to a ground in the box outside to a copper rod in the ground, this is your houses ground. The equipement end is grounded to the chassis of the equipment, which is grounded to the wall plug, through your breaker panel to the same copper rod outside. That coax also most likely runs past many high amp power wires, and along side romex in your walls.

Well all of my auxiliary circuits are going to be grounded back to the battery directly or directly to the battery via a junction block.

I didn't do that with my current setup, the main battery hot is jumpered from a junction block but my fuse box is a spade style fuse box and not a hardwired one like my new one will be. The ground junction I never ran back to ground I just grounded the junction to the core support. But my idea is to either run a ground wire from the ground cable at the block to a junction then to the fuse box or get a ground cable with a pigtail to make a connection to a junction block to then provide a grounding point to the battery for my circuits such as relays, headlights, and fuel injection.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well all of my auxiliary circuits are going to be grounded back to the battery directly or directly to the battery via a junction block.

I didn't do that with my current setup, the main battery hot is jumpered from a junction block but my fuse box is a spade style fuse box and not a hardwired one like my new one will be. The ground junction I never ran back to ground I just grounded the junction to the core support. But my idea is to either run a ground wire from the ground cable at the block to a junction then to the fuse box or get a ground cable with a pigtail to make a connection to a junction block to then provide a grounding point to the battery for my circuits such as relays, headlights, and fuel injection.

Yesterday I took my cluster out to oil and reconnect my speedo cable.

I have to use mileage to track fuel, since my gauge has the wrong senders.

I ran out of gas a couple of days ago because the cable has been acting up.

While I had it out I welded up a few cracked mounting tabs and rewired my fog light switch to the marker light (Brown) wire that went to the (unplugged)warning buzzer.

Now my fog lights will only operate with the marker lamps on and the high beams off.

 

[Kyle_christina]

Yesterday I took my cluster out to oil and reconnect my speedo cable.

I have to use mileage to track fuel, since my gauge has the wrong senders.

I ran out of gas a couple of days ago because the cable has been acting up.

While I had it out I welded up a few cracked mounting tabs and rewired my fog light switch to the marker light (Brown) wire that went to the (unplugged)warning buzzer.

Now my fog lights will only operate with the marker lamps on and the high beams off.

Sometime ago i started rebuilding my engine harness (86 302 efi) and while doing so am upgrading to a maf setup from a 95 f150. Then i decided i needed to drain all the bad fuel out of the tanks and rebuild the wire harness all the way back to the tail lights.

[scbill]

Yesterday I took my cluster out to oil and reconnect my speedo cable.

I have to use mileage to track fuel, since my gauge has the wrong senders.

I ran out of gas a couple of days ago because the cable has been acting up.

While I had it out I welded up a few cracked mounting tabs and rewired my fog light switch to the marker light (Brown) wire that went to the (unplugged)warning buzzer.

Now my fog lights will only operate with the marker lamps on and the high beams off.

ArdWrknTrk.....I used these for an add on to a power outlet that I wanted to activate with the ignition switch. You can pick up anywhere on the fuseblock.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=auto+fuse+addon+&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=auto+fuse+addon+jumper

[ArdWrknTrk]

ArdWrknTrk.....I used these for an add on to a power outlet that I wanted to activate with the ignition switch. You can pick up anywhere on the fuseblock.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=auto+fuse+addon+&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=auto+fuse+addon+jumper

In the fuseblock I have constant power and key on power.

I wanted (and got) lights on power.

 

[Rembrant]

I filled my old Bullnose up today! Finally used up the first full tank of fuel this season. Obviously I haven't been driving it much, because I last filled it on March 21st, but today it took 12.68 gallons to fill, and it had traveled 203 miles. That's a clean 16 MPG. I'm pretty happy with that considering that included a lot of starts and warm-ups, a lot of driving around the city and a lot of 1:1 (4th gear).

I'm hoping it'll get back up around 18 or 18+ on the highway if I can get a run in with a lot of time in 5th.

Still, not bad for a little warmed up 302 that made 300HP on the dyno.

TGIF Bullnosers!

Two weeks later and I filled the old Bull up again last night and again hit just a hair below 16mpg. I guess that is where my "run around" mileage is. Its not highway mileage, but it's not stop and go crawling traffic either. I guess I'd call it mixed, so that's not bad. Now to get some highway driving in so I can get an idea where that will be.

[Gary Lewis]

I filled my old Bullnose up today! Finally used up the first full tank of fuel this season. Obviously I haven't been driving it much, because I last filled it on March 21st, but today it took 12.68 gallons to fill, and it had traveled 203 miles. That's a clean 16 MPG. I'm pretty happy with that considering that included a lot of starts and warm-ups, a lot of driving around the city and a lot of 1:1 (4th gear).

I'm hoping it'll get back up around 18 or 18+ on the highway if I can get a run in with a lot of time in 5th.

Still, not bad for a little warmed up 302 that made 300HP on the dyno.

TGIF Bullnosers!

Two weeks later and I filled the old Bull up again last night and again hit just a hair below 16mpg. I guess that is where my "run around" mileage is. Its not highway mileage, but it's not stop and go crawling traffic either. I guess I'd call it mixed, so that's not bad. Now to get some highway driving in so I can get an idea where that will be.

That's good MPG for "running around". I'll bet the highway #'s will be around 17.5.

[Rusty_S85]

I haven't installed the fuel injection yet. Im doing a bunch of wiring upgrades to my aftermarket wiring by making it all into one nice harness. I know I have a little noise in my CB that requires me to turn the squelch up a little higher than if the truck is off. That is why I was thinking of doing the wiring on that since I will have the fuel pump power wire coming out of the same auxiliary fuse box that the CB will be wired into.

The fuel injection I am kind of worried about it as the ECU is mounted on the passengerside of the throttlebody and my coil is situated on the passengerside intake manifold. That might cause me a problem but I don't think it will as Ive installed snipers with the front mounted ECU on fords with no problem before. Im just thinking ahead since I will be making a new harness and wraping all my OE and aftermarket harnesses with the woven mesh loom material to clean everything up

The easiest way to do a shield and not have any of the "ground loop" issues is to keep both ends, and both sets of equipment on the same ground plane. If they are all hooked up to the same fuse box that end is on the same ground plane. The potential changes on one side when you add more joints between that ground and the other. For example being grounded to a fender that's not bonded well to a cab firewall where the other end of the ground is. Basically putting both ends back to the same grounding block in instances where you cannot control the quality of the overall chassis ground eliminates the difference of potential.

Using a single drain wire, aka the floating shield/ Single Point Ground (SPG) is one way people get around that potential interference but this method will induce current. I think a lot of people do it before they verify that hooking both ends up will cause an issue to begin with. What do you call a run of metal grounded at 1 end? An antenna for all intents and purposes.

I am not sure how your CB is set up but you should have something like RG8X or if your fancy LR400 coax running from your antenna to your receiver. That cable is double shielded and grounded through the connectors to both the receiver and the antenna. The Antenna is then grounded to the truck body to provide a ground plane for the antenna and the receiver to the chassis ground on the other end forming your ground loop already.

Current is going to flow in the shield no matter what, that is what it is there for. The concern about ground loops is that current overwhelms the shields capability and then starts radiating the wire it's supposed to protect. Another method I think I may have mentioned before, or it was in my botched post is guard wires. A guard wire is a decent gauge wire that acts like a shield does, just easier to install. You run a few of these along the wire bundle and they catch and dissipate EMI. Typically I have seen these attached or in near proximity to the wires that are causing the EMI and slightly spaced off of the wires that are affected by EMI.

Another method of combating EMI, which you wont see in your vehicle, is twisted pair wiring. The wire twist is enough not to mess with the signal wire but helps negate EMI especially when paired with shielding in the jacket.

You will probably find just as many arguments for each side especially with IP/OP Data installers.

Think about your high speed internet/cable. That coax is grounded on both ends at the connector, to a ground in the box outside to a copper rod in the ground, this is your houses ground. The equipement end is grounded to the chassis of the equipment, which is grounded to the wall plug, through your breaker panel to the same copper rod outside. That coax also most likely runs past many high amp power wires, and along side romex in your walls.

Lots of the people on the fb group are saying the RFI problems with these snipers are due to bad grounds. many claim make sure the block, cab, and chassis are grounded good to the battery and you are fine.

I dont know how people dont have a good engine to battery ground considering the negative cable connects directly to the block so the starter has a proper ground. Everything else piggy backs from there.

I should be good though as I am going to be adding a grounding junction to add extra grounds straight to the battery.

[Gary Lewis]

Lots of the people on the fb group are saying the RFI problems with these snipers are due to bad grounds. many claim make sure the block, cab, and chassis are grounded good to the battery and you are fine.

I dont know how people dont have a good engine to battery ground considering the negative cable connects directly to the block so the starter has a proper ground. Everything else piggy backs from there.

I should be good though as I am going to be adding a grounding junction to add extra grounds straight to the battery.

People frequently leave the engine/firewall ground off. But, the Bullnose trucks had a poor ground plan, with the early ones having rear light grounds on the frame. In '84 IIRC they put the rear lights ground in the cab, but you are still dependent upon the engine/cab ground. In the years after the Bullnose era they beefed the grounds up significantly with grounds from the core support to the fenders and from the frame to the cab.

Have you seen what I did on Big Blue? You can check it out here, but the diagram I made looks like this: