WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Rusty_S85]

I haven't installed the fuel injection yet. Im doing a bunch of wiring upgrades to my aftermarket wiring by making it all into one nice harness. I know I have a little noise in my CB that requires me to turn the squelch up a little higher than if the truck is off. That is why I was thinking of doing the wiring on that since I will have the fuel pump power wire coming out of the same auxiliary fuse box that the CB will be wired into.

The fuel injection I am kind of worried about it as the ECU is mounted on the passengerside of the throttlebody and my coil is situated on the passengerside intake manifold. That might cause me a problem but I don't think it will as Ive installed snipers with the front mounted ECU on fords with no problem before. Im just thinking ahead since I will be making a new harness and wraping all my OE and aftermarket harnesses with the woven mesh loom material to clean everything up

Well I have been doing a lot of reading on the sniper and talking with other people that have been messing with them a lot deeper than I have and have found out that there are a lot more functionality than I had though.

For starters, the AC Kick function which I thought was to idle the engine up with AC on but is really just to kick the IAC open to idle the engine up momentarily to prevent a drop in RPM when the AC comes on does have the ability to be switched to a high idle functionality by activating the 1D table.

I haven't got confirmation on this but from how I understand it, I can possibly set up multiple triggers for this high idle or at least set up different specs.

For example I can have my 306 idle at 575 rpm (OE spec I will try) and with AC activated I can program the sniper to idle up to 650 rom (OE spec). Now if I can make multiple tables for the same function of a high idle function, I am thinking about doing some digging and see how much rpm did ford idle their stock engines up by through the temperature activated vacuum switch to help cool a overheating engine. I think that might be a cool little feature to have so if I am sitting in traffic for example could have the high idle to over ride the AC high idle and bump the idle speed from 650 rpm to say 750 rpm to try and drop temperatures which shouldn't cause a pull with the hughes XTM converter I will be running. Then I can have my AC setup to cut out at say 230 degrees. that way from 210 to 230 the idle speed will increase to try and cool the engine down then if it doesn't work the ac will switch off then. After all I would have the shut down anyways for the WOT kill for the compressor since I don't want to be trying to accelerate to pass someone while spinning a York compressor.

So it looks like I can get a lot of features out of the sniper, but it requires to use the computer program to access more advanced settings.

Only thing now is I am seriously contemplating if I want to run the OE 195/96 motorcraft thermostat I have for my truck. A 195* thermostat will result in 200 - 210 engine temps as a normal which would force me to elevate the temperature to higher numbers for a idle up function for over heating and a ac shut down for overheating.

Not sure I would want to run my 306 up to 240 or 250 before ac shut down happens and to 230 as the start of the idle up to cool engine down. I don't think my aluminum heads would like that. Maybe its best I just stick with a 180* thermostat like I currently have. Only draw back is my temp gauge never gets into normal in winter time with the 180* thermostat and in summer time the temp gauge barely hits the N in normal and ive swaped clusters to get a factory tach and both gauges read the same way and ive already changed sending units as well. Same with oil pressure, barely reads on the N in normal.

But none the less, I might need a bigger fuse/relay box cause if I want to put my AC compressor on a relay to take the load off my dealer AC switch, I wont have enough circuits cause I will need a relay for the AC shut down, then I will need an AC activation relay that will go through the shut down relay and then I will need a third relay for the AC kick function. Both holley wires are ground wires. the AC kick function needs to be grounded for the kick function or high idle function becomes active. the AC shut down relay applies ground so you need to run the AC clutch circuit through the relay through the center pin that is normally closed then run a key hot as a trigger to the ground wire from the sniper and when the requirements are met a ground is applied to said wire to close the relay thus breaking the 87A connection.

So this is three relays required right here just for AC functionality and to take the load off my AC switch. I then have two relays for high beam/low beam for my headlights, and a relay for my driving lights. That leaves me with one relay left that I need which is my fuel pump relay. I guess I could open a spot up by jumpering the high beam circuit to supply power to the driving lights as well opening up a relay spot but I don't like the thought of trying to run two 100w driving lights on the same relay as a pair of 65w high beams.

Guess I am back in the market for a fuse box unless I just forgo having a relay for my AC clutch and just let my AC switch take the load for the clutch.

I guess if I got the highliner headliner for our trucks and chop it up and try and remake it without those tacky speaker mounts I could mount any extra relays I need in the radio cubby in the highliner. That way if I decide to add roll bar and roll bar lights I can put the relays there and have the toggle switch mounted on the panel there to activate them. Then I wouldn't need more space in the relay box under the hood and could just stick with my plan as it is now.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Bummer! I hate it when I drop a fastener and can't find it. Happened yesterday for a while. Dropped one of the 8 x 1.25 mm bolts that go into the valve cover for the dip stick stay. Finally found it hiding in the frame, but it took a long time.

Good luck!

I got a new one.

Installed that and moved on to the bolt in the rocker.

Fought that for an hour and won!

Everywhere I take something apart I find more torn metal.

This truck has never been in an accident

I don't understand why it seems tweaked?

Was snowing Saturday afternoon.

I took it for a drive.

It has less squeaks and rattles now.

[Gary Lewis]

I got a new one.

Installed that and moved on to the bolt in the rocker.

Fought that for an hour and won!

Everywhere I take something apart I find more torn metal.

This truck has never been in an accident

I don't understand why it seems tweaked?

Was snowing Saturday afternoon.

I took it for a drive.

It has less squeaks and rattles now.

Rusty - The Sniper systems seems to have a LOT of functionality. Sounds very capable and fun to play with.

But I don't think I'd be too worried about running 330 watts of lighting off one relay. The standard Bosch relays are good for 40 amps, which at 12 volts is 480 watts, so you'd have plenty of reserve.

Jim - Glad you got it together. Gotta feel good getting to drive it. And I'll bet it has far fewer squeaks and rattles. It is lots more solid.

That "fought it for an hour and won" sure reminds me of the hydroboost plumbing I recently installed. One of the lines went in nicely on the first try, but needed to be tweaked a bit so it would clear other things, like the clutch line. So I pulled it, tweaked it, and put it back - under the flexible clutch line. But it would NOT thread in. I found another fitting the same size and it went in by hand. I pulled that one and ran a die over it - no dice. I used a thread file on it - no dice. I ran a tap into the hydroboost unit with grease on it to catch filings - and it went in by hand and produced no filings. But the fitting still would not go, in spite of me using a smaller wrench over the line to push down on the fitting while turning it.

Finally I ran the line over the clutch line and it screwed in by hand.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Rusty - The Sniper systems seems to have a LOT of functionality. Sounds very capable and fun to play with.

But I don't think I'd be too worried about running 330 watts of lighting off one relay. The standard Bosch relays are good for 40 amps, which at 12 volts is 480 watts, so you'd have plenty of reserve.

Jim - Glad you got it together. Gotta feel good getting to drive it. And I'll bet it has far fewer squeaks and rattles. It is lots more solid.

That "fought it for an hour and won" sure reminds me of the hydroboost plumbing I recently installed. One of the lines went in nicely on the first try, but needed to be tweaked a bit so it would clear other things, like the clutch line. So I pulled it, tweaked it, and put it back - under the flexible clutch line. But it would NOT thread in. I found another fitting the same size and it went in by hand. I pulled that one and ran a die over it - no dice. I used a thread file on it - no dice. I ran a tap into the hydroboost unit with grease on it to catch filings - and it went in by hand and produced no filings. But the fitting still would not go, in spite of me using a smaller wrench over the line to push down on the fitting while turning it.

Finally I ran the line over the clutch line and it screwed in by hand.

I try and try to explain to people that hydraulic fittings must go dead nuts straight in.

Don't force it and don't crossthread it.

But, still I get calls for help.:shrug

[Gary Lewis]

I try and try to explain to people that hydraulic fittings must go dead nuts straight in.

Don't force it and don't crossthread it.

But, still I get calls for help.:shrug

I knew all of that, and thought I had it absolutely straight in. I even pushed the tube down to where the o-ring land bottomed, which I thought would line it up. No dice. I pulled the speed control servo which allowed me to have a line of sight right down into it, but even then it wouldn't go.

But about 9" away it was just touching the plastic clutch line. I wanted it to go under the line 'cause I could then gently bend the hydroboost line away from the clutch line by squeezing the big U. But finally, in desperation, I moved it above the clutch line. Just that little bit of difference, maybe 3/4" at a distance of ~9", let it go in.

But I knew not to force it. I was only using a wrench because of the difficult angle I was at, and also to get to the fitting when I put another wrench on top of it to push down.

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty - The Sniper systems seems to have a LOT of functionality. Sounds very capable and fun to play with.

But I don't think I'd be too worried about running 330 watts of lighting off one relay. The standard Bosch relays are good for 40 amps, which at 12 volts is 480 watts, so you'd have plenty of reserve.

Jim - Glad you got it together. Gotta feel good getting to drive it. And I'll bet it has far fewer squeaks and rattles. It is lots more solid.

That "fought it for an hour and won" sure reminds me of the hydroboost plumbing I recently installed. One of the lines went in nicely on the first try, but needed to be tweaked a bit so it would clear other things, like the clutch line. So I pulled it, tweaked it, and put it back - under the flexible clutch line. But it would NOT thread in. I found another fitting the same size and it went in by hand. I pulled that one and ran a die over it - no dice. I used a thread file on it - no dice. I ran a tap into the hydroboost unit with grease on it to catch filings - and it went in by hand and produced no filings. But the fitting still would not go, in spite of me using a smaller wrench over the line to push down on the fitting while turning it.

Finally I ran the line over the clutch line and it screwed in by hand.

It does the more and more I dig into it the more I find out.

Its good to know I can idle the truck up with the AC coming on that is one big thing I want cause with my dealer AC I had to live with idle speed being stuck where I set it as I didn't have a kicker. So I naturally idled my truck up slightly. But now with a full aftermarket built engine I don't know if I can get a 575 rpm idle speed with a 650 rpm high idle for the AC. I will for sure try it and if the truck idles smooth there and doesn't surge or shake ill leave it there.

Only thing I will have to go through trial and error is see exactly how my engine runs temp wise with and without the AC from what the sniper sees. That way I can devise a temperature of when I want a high idle to come into effect to accelerate the water pump speed to help cool the engine down. Will also allow me to see where exactly I want to place the ac cut out at temp wise as well as I would want the engine to idle up first to try and cool down in traffic before it goes to the extreme and cut the AC off.

It also looks like online most people are running 180* thermostats even though OE fuel injection systems are setup to run at 195*. something I will have to think on.

As far as the relay goes, yep 40 amps relay should be good and considering I will be doing the 3G conversion with the 3G having a 14.8V setting which will lower the amperage consumption of the loads compared to 12V. Only thing is how do I want to go about it. If I add auxiliary lighting ontop of my driving lights I could in theory link roll bar lights to the same relay for my driving lights. Only thing is I wouldn't want my roll bar lights to be active all the time my highbeams are on. What I could do is wire a switch to deactivate the wire going out to the roll bar lights but then that switch would have to carry the load of the lights. Another option would be to just link my driving lights to my highbeam relay then that would free up one relay slot for use with roll bar lights long as I am smart and don't go overboard. I also need to keep in mind I am limited by how many watts I can run as I don't think I can connect a bigger than 10ga wire to my bussed fuse terminal I have to buss my fusebox portion that had individual terminals. I will be losing one of the 6 terminals as I will have to chop one out of the bussed circuit as it will be for the fuse for the fuel pump relay from the Holley sniper setup.

The bussed terminals do look like I might be able to partially crimp and then solder a larger than 10ga wire. Maybe an 8 ga which I don't even think exist as I didn't find any from the wiring depot where I buy my bulk wiring. Next size would have to be 6 ga which would be the same size as the alternator charge wire I will be using which I think might be too large to fit. I guess I would have to get some 6ga wire first and then go from there.

Only thing is I wouldn't have a relay though for my AC clutch which I have been thinking, the only load on the wire is for powering the clutch. I don't believe that is a large load such as trying to run 400 watts of light through one switch.

I do have a bunch of time how ever to play around with how I want to wire the fuse box up. I also need to think do I really plan on adding a roll bar with more lights. Question I keep asking myself is do I truly need more lights than the two 100w driving lights. I feel the only reason I would add more lights is cause I think having a roll bar without lights on the top of them looks odd

[Gary Lewis]

It does the more and more I dig into it the more I find out.

Its good to know I can idle the truck up with the AC coming on that is one big thing I want cause with my dealer AC I had to live with idle speed being stuck where I set it as I didn't have a kicker. So I naturally idled my truck up slightly. But now with a full aftermarket built engine I don't know if I can get a 575 rpm idle speed with a 650 rpm high idle for the AC. I will for sure try it and if the truck idles smooth there and doesn't surge or shake ill leave it there.

Only thing I will have to go through trial and error is see exactly how my engine runs temp wise with and without the AC from what the sniper sees. That way I can devise a temperature of when I want a high idle to come into effect to accelerate the water pump speed to help cool the engine down. Will also allow me to see where exactly I want to place the ac cut out at temp wise as well as I would want the engine to idle up first to try and cool down in traffic before it goes to the extreme and cut the AC off.

It also looks like online most people are running 180* thermostats even though OE fuel injection systems are setup to run at 195*. something I will have to think on.

As far as the relay goes, yep 40 amps relay should be good and considering I will be doing the 3G conversion with the 3G having a 14.8V setting which will lower the amperage consumption of the loads compared to 12V. Only thing is how do I want to go about it. If I add auxiliary lighting ontop of my driving lights I could in theory link roll bar lights to the same relay for my driving lights. Only thing is I wouldn't want my roll bar lights to be active all the time my highbeams are on. What I could do is wire a switch to deactivate the wire going out to the roll bar lights but then that switch would have to carry the load of the lights. Another option would be to just link my driving lights to my highbeam relay then that would free up one relay slot for use with roll bar lights long as I am smart and don't go overboard. I also need to keep in mind I am limited by how many watts I can run as I don't think I can connect a bigger than 10ga wire to my bussed fuse terminal I have to buss my fusebox portion that had individual terminals. I will be losing one of the 6 terminals as I will have to chop one out of the bussed circuit as it will be for the fuse for the fuel pump relay from the Holley sniper setup.

The bussed terminals do look like I might be able to partially crimp and then solder a larger than 10ga wire. Maybe an 8 ga which I don't even think exist as I didn't find any from the wiring depot where I buy my bulk wiring. Next size would have to be 6 ga which would be the same size as the alternator charge wire I will be using which I think might be too large to fit. I guess I would have to get some 6ga wire first and then go from there.

Only thing is I wouldn't have a relay though for my AC clutch which I have been thinking, the only load on the wire is for powering the clutch. I don't believe that is a large load such as trying to run 400 watts of light through one switch.

I do have a bunch of time how ever to play around with how I want to wire the fuse box up. I also need to think do I really plan on adding a roll bar with more lights. Question I keep asking myself is do I truly need more lights than the two 100w driving lights. I feel the only reason I would add more lights is cause I think having a roll bar without lights on the top of them looks odd

Rusty - Several thoughts. But the first one is that one of these days you are going to kick yourself 'cause you can't find your posts on this topic. At best they'll be scattered hither, thither, and you through this WHYDTYTT thread. At worst you'll have them elsewhere as well.

So you ought to think about starting your own thread on your EFI plans. Not because you shouldn't be posting here 'cause that's up to you. Just 'cause you'll want to find them some day.

Anyway, the A/C clutch doesn't pull much at all. So I wouldn't worry about placing it on a relay. Use that relay instead for your auxiliary lighting. I don't think I'd make the auxiliary lighting dependent on having the headlights on, much less the high beams. There may be times that you want just the aux lighting on.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Rusty - Several thoughts. But the first one is that one of these days you are going to kick yourself 'cause you can't find your posts on this topic. At best they'll be scattered hither, thither, and you through this WHYDTYTT thread. At worst you'll have them elsewhere as well.

So you ought to think about starting your own thread on your EFI plans. Not because you shouldn't be posting here 'cause that's up to you. Just 'cause you'll want to find them some day.

Anyway, the A/C clutch doesn't pull much at all. So I wouldn't worry about placing it on a relay. Use that relay instead for your auxiliary lighting. I don't think I'd make the auxiliary lighting dependent on having the headlights on, much less the high beams. There may be times that you want just the aux lighting on.

I took some SoftScrub and got all the overspray off my hubcaps, bumper and windshield today.

I also pulled the passenger door off to replace the pins and bushings.

When I dropped it back on the floor jack to reinstall the rusty door bottom gave way.

I guess I'll have to find a manual bricknose passenger door cheap.

But I imagine most will be shot, like mine.

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty - Several thoughts. But the first one is that one of these days you are going to kick yourself 'cause you can't find your posts on this topic. At best they'll be scattered hither, thither, and you through this WHYDTYTT thread. At worst you'll have them elsewhere as well.

So you ought to think about starting your own thread on your EFI plans. Not because you shouldn't be posting here 'cause that's up to you. Just 'cause you'll want to find them some day.

Anyway, the A/C clutch doesn't pull much at all. So I wouldn't worry about placing it on a relay. Use that relay instead for your auxiliary lighting. I don't think I'd make the auxiliary lighting dependent on having the headlights on, much less the high beams. There may be times that you want just the aux lighting on.

Oh I have a word document with all important information posted to it saved in my truck folder.

Right now I am playing around with the Sniper EFI software on my pc. I learn better by actually doing vs reading and found that idle speed can be adjusted based off the coolant temp reading.

Not sure on the idle speed but it seems to have a decent idle speed setup with 1000rpm at -40 degrees and ramps down to 900 rpm by 29 degrees and on down to 575 rpm by 99 degrees and maintain 575 rpm through to 237 degrees then starts to ramp up to 700 rpm by 306 which shouldn't happen. My theory is once 237 degrees is reached at idle on the highway in traffic the idle speed will start to ramp up increasing fan speed as well as coolant flow which should bring the temperature down below 230.

And this here is the AC kick under table 1D this is as far as I have figured out to adjust the idle speed to be increased with the AC activated. I found I believe the right part but not sure what to put anywhere. Going to go back to the holley forums and read the reference material I was provided and try to stumble through.

On the auxiliary lights, anything on the roll bar would be activated by a switch, the only one wired into my headlights are my driving lights which is a patterned beam, I currently have a switch to kill the ground on the relay so I can run highbeams without but I never had the need to switch them off. I only had the switch mounted in case some state inspector give me trouble about the driving lights being wired into the highbeams even though driving lights are the only ones legally able to be tied into the highbeams. The wiring I redo for the fusebox would eliminate the wire coming inside to ground so my driving lights would be wired to the driving lights with no cut out circuit. Why I really thought about just wiring the driving light directly to the high beam relay but I don't like that cause if my highbeam relay ever goes out on me at least a independent relay for my driving lights would still see the highbeam trigger and I would still at least have my driving lights till I can swap relays or fuses.

This is how I think it should be for increasing idle speed by 75 rpm to 450 rpm when the AC kick signal is there. Going from memory I believe the 0`s are off and the 1`s are on.

[Danny G]

I haven't installed the fuel injection yet. Im doing a bunch of wiring upgrades to my aftermarket wiring by making it all into one nice harness. I know I have a little noise in my CB that requires me to turn the squelch up a little higher than if the truck is off. That is why I was thinking of doing the wiring on that since I will have the fuel pump power wire coming out of the same auxiliary fuse box that the CB will be wired into.

The fuel injection I am kind of worried about it as the ECU is mounted on the passengerside of the throttlebody and my coil is situated on the passengerside intake manifold. That might cause me a problem but I don't think it will as Ive installed snipers with the front mounted ECU on fords with no problem before. Im just thinking ahead since I will be making a new harness and wraping all my OE and aftermarket harnesses with the woven mesh loom material to clean everything up

The easiest way to do a shield and not have any of the "ground loop" issues is to keep both ends, and both sets of equipment on the same ground plane. If they are all hooked up to the same fuse box that end is on the same ground plane. The potential changes on one side when you add more joints between that ground and the other. For example being grounded to a fender that's not bonded well to a cab firewall where the other end of the ground is. Basically putting both ends back to the same grounding block in instances where you cannot control the quality of the overall chassis ground eliminates the difference of potential.

Using a single drain wire, aka the floating shield/ Single Point Ground (SPG) is one way people get around that potential interference but this method will induce current. I think a lot of people do it before they verify that hooking both ends up will cause an issue to begin with. What do you call a run of metal grounded at 1 end? An antenna for all intents and purposes.

I am not sure how your CB is set up but you should have something like RG8X or if your fancy LR400 coax running from your antenna to your receiver. That cable is double shielded and grounded through the connectors to both the receiver and the antenna. The Antenna is then grounded to the truck body to provide a ground plane for the antenna and the receiver to the chassis ground on the other end forming your ground loop already.

Current is going to flow in the shield no matter what, that is what it is there for. The concern about ground loops is that current overwhelms the shields capability and then starts radiating the wire it's supposed to protect. Another method I think I may have mentioned before, or it was in my botched post is guard wires. A guard wire is a decent gauge wire that acts like a shield does, just easier to install. You run a few of these along the wire bundle and they catch and dissipate EMI. Typically I have seen these attached or in near proximity to the wires that are causing the EMI and slightly spaced off of the wires that are affected by EMI.

Another method of combating EMI, which you wont see in your vehicle, is twisted pair wiring. The wire twist is enough not to mess with the signal wire but helps negate EMI especially when paired with shielding in the jacket.

You will probably find just as many arguments for each side especially with IP/OP Data installers.

Think about your high speed internet/cable. That coax is grounded on both ends at the connector, to a ground in the box outside to a copper rod in the ground, this is your houses ground. The equipement end is grounded to the chassis of the equipment, which is grounded to the wall plug, through your breaker panel to the same copper rod outside. That coax also most likely runs past many high amp power wires, and along side romex in your walls.