WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Gary Lewis]

that's kind of how I did mine but its just taped wire and its just hanging there as I didn't have an idea for attachment. Will check the link out though looks like something that would work for me considering I am looking at mounting my auxiliary fuse box on the core support brace in the middle of your photo. Would have to see if I can loop it down and under as the entrance for the fuse box base is on the other side facing away from the radiator.

I don't think I'd drop it down. I think I'd wrap it around the headlight and come in that way.

[Rusty_S85]

I don't think I'd drop it down. I think I'd wrap it around the headlight and come in that way.

That's what I was thinking more I look at the photo bring it above the fuse box then drop it down into the fuse box then I can branch out the driverside headlight wire from the fusebox to the headlight then run the passengerside headlight and the headlight signal adapter to the passengerside so the plug into the OE connector would be hidden out of view.

For the loom material I am going with one of the woven looms from this company.

https://www.techflex.com/heavy-duty/clean-cut-heavy-duty

They also have these that help to insulate from interference. Might wrap just my CB wires in this just to ensure no interference into my CB. Maybe also wrap my alternator charge wire in it as well. But there is nothing I can do to stop interference with my Sniper Stealth if its ignition system related outside of relocating the coil or wrapping the coil wires with this stuff as well.

https://www.techflex.com/heatshrink-tubing/2-1-shield-shielding

Or maybe this one for EMI insulation.

https://www.techflex.com/metal-shielding/flexo-shield

Not sure which would be better I don't really need shrink tubing so probably the flexo shield.

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's what I was thinking more I look at the photo bring it above the fuse box then drop it down into the fuse box then I can branch out the driverside headlight wire from the fusebox to the headlight then run the passengerside headlight and the headlight signal adapter to the passengerside so the plug into the OE connector would be hidden out of view.

For the loom material I am going with one of the woven looms from this company.

https://www.techflex.com/heavy-duty/clean-cut-heavy-duty

They also have these that help to insulate from interference. Might wrap just my CB wires in this just to ensure no interference into my CB. Maybe also wrap my alternator charge wire in it as well. But there is nothing I can do to stop interference with my Sniper Stealth if its ignition system related outside of relocating the coil or wrapping the coil wires with this stuff as well.

https://www.techflex.com/heatshrink-tubing/2-1-shield-shielding

Or maybe this one for EMI insulation.

https://www.techflex.com/metal-shielding/flexo-shield

Not sure which would be better I don't really need shrink tubing so probably the flexo shield.

Do like Ford does and use a Faraday sleeve grounded at one end only.

You'll see that symbol on every EVTM page showing an EEC system

[Gary Lewis]

Do like Ford does and use a Faraday sleeve grounded at one end only.

You'll see that symbol on every EVTM page showing an EEC system

Yes! It is important that shields be grounded at one end only. Else there's a current through them and that induces voltage on the wiring within.

[Rusty_S85]

Do like Ford does and use a Faraday sleeve grounded at one end only.

You'll see that symbol on every EVTM page showing an EEC system

Yes! It is important that shields be grounded at one end only. Else there's a current through them and that induces voltage on the wiring within.

You mean physically run a wire from the metal sleeve with an eyelet to ground? That can be done just have to figure out how to attach the pigtail to the metal sleeve. I just know I want to run some shielding as I know the alternator by having a main battery wire near the power wires for the cb and cb amp can introduce interference as noise. im sure the fuel pump power wire will do the same thing.

Thinking is instead of running my wires bundled to keep noisy wires away it would be better to run the shielding on just the wires that are at risk then I can place the shielded wires with the other wires in one loom.

Other news I found a local upholstery shop that I might use for having a custom seat made for my truck. Not sure how they do it or if I have to supply a factory seat for them to build off of. If I have to then I will just use a OE seat when I get a used one and just have it covered in stock form. Otherwise I am looking at having my seat done like one of the following ways but probably with the removal of the arched seat bottom.

This is about the blue I think I need for my midnight blue interior, but this is a seat for a C10 though. But LMC sells the same style of seat shape for our trucks as well. This is one option though but I am not too crazy about the raised center for the emulated bucket seats.

This one is better without the raised center but I just don't like the recessed seat bottom, I know I sat in one at work today that was built by these guys locally and it is extremely comfortable. I just don't know how high or low I would sit in my truck with the lowered center. Right now the whole point of me changing my explorer buckets out is they are sitting low as possible to avoid the head rests being too high in the back window and im just too low in the truck as it is now.

Think when it comes time I might give them a call and see if they can do something in an 80's style custom seat for a truck but get rid of the lowered seat bottom and just keep it flat across like a stock seat. I don't mind the lumbar support design of the back as that's quite comfortable.

If they could possibly change the pattern of the first one to be more like the second one it might would be a good seat option for me even with the raised center section. Im just concerned the raised center section might put a center passenger too high up.

[ArdWrknTrk]

You mean physically run a wire from the metal sleeve with an eyelet to ground? That can be done just have to figure out how to attach the pigtail to the metal sleeve. I just know I want to run some shielding as I know the alternator by having a main battery wire near the power wires for the cb and cb amp can introduce interference as noise. im sure the fuel pump power wire will do the same thing.

Thinking is instead of running my wires bundled to keep noisy wires away it would be better to run the shielding on just the wires that are at risk then I can place the shielded wires with the other wires in one loom.

Other news I found a local upholstery shop that I might use for having a custom seat made for my truck. Not sure how they do it or if I have to supply a factory seat for them to build off of. If I have to then I will just use a OE seat when I get a used one and just have it covered in stock form. Otherwise I am looking at having my seat done like one of the following ways but probably with the removal of the arched seat bottom.

This is about the blue I think I need for my midnight blue interior, but this is a seat for a C10 though. But LMC sells the same style of seat shape for our trucks as well. This is one option though but I am not too crazy about the raised center for the emulated bucket seats.

This one is better without the raised center but I just don't like the recessed seat bottom, I know I sat in one at work today that was built by these guys locally and it is extremely comfortable. I just don't know how high or low I would sit in my truck with the lowered center. Right now the whole point of me changing my explorer buckets out is they are sitting low as possible to avoid the head rests being too high in the back window and im just too low in the truck as it is now.

Think when it comes time I might give them a call and see if they can do something in an 80's style custom seat for a truck but get rid of the lowered seat bottom and just keep it flat across like a stock seat. I don't mind the lumbar support design of the back as that's quite comfortable.

If they could possibly change the pattern of the first one to be more like the second one it might would be a good seat option for me even with the raised center section. Im just concerned the raised center section might put a center passenger too high up.

There's a 80-86 seat base (frame & springs) on U-techcenter for $45 and only 9.95 shipping.

It's in Tulsa.

If you were looking for custom upholstery anyhow it might be best to start off fresh.

[Rusty_S85]

There's a 80-86 seat base (frame & springs) on U-techcenter for $45 and only 9.95 shipping.

It's in Tulsa.

If you were looking for custom upholstery anyhow it might be best to start off fresh.

Well Ideally I wanted the complete seat frame and mounting base, I have the mounting base but I cant move the seat and wont know if its because the seat is sitting on the floor and wont move or if there is something broken. Rather have the whole seat if possible, then my original plan was to have it covered in a dark cobalt blue that is a close match to midnight blue. Just not sure on a pattern but I can find the whole seats online but they all want $200+ for the seat which is too much for a seat that needs to be rebuilt.

I did think it would be cool to have the seat covered in real leather and then find a texas based ranch with a brand that I like and have the leather branded sort of like how king range does their seats. The place I was going to get the full hide leather from they have a disclaimer that their hides are all natural and will have blemishes and brands. Thought about requesting a Texas based ranch if they can hand pick one but their website sounds like they don't do custom picking for best hide.

[Danny G]

Well Ideally I wanted the complete seat frame and mounting base, I have the mounting base but I cant move the seat and wont know if its because the seat is sitting on the floor and wont move or if there is something broken. Rather have the whole seat if possible, then my original plan was to have it covered in a dark cobalt blue that is a close match to midnight blue. Just not sure on a pattern but I can find the whole seats online but they all want $200+ for the seat which is too much for a seat that needs to be rebuilt.

I did think it would be cool to have the seat covered in real leather and then find a texas based ranch with a brand that I like and have the leather branded sort of like how king range does their seats. The place I was going to get the full hide leather from they have a disclaimer that their hides are all natural and will have blemishes and brands. Thought about requesting a Texas based ranch if they can hand pick one but their website sounds like they don't do custom picking for best hide.

You can get hides without brands and blemishes. Leather has different ratings. If a company is doing seats and they can't make it without blemishes or brands they are using the lowest grade leather they can get. You can look up Tandy Leather and get a good idea.

I do a bit of leather work myself, and blemishes typically mean scars. Its not like a hole or something. But if the animal got a scar it has it's issues. Scars can get hard and crack, they also do not take dye very well. But if you are making something that is stitched together you can work around scars.

[Danny G]

Do like Ford does and use a Faraday sleeve grounded at one end only.

You'll see that symbol on every EVTM page showing an EEC system

Yes! It is important that shields be grounded at one end only. Else there's a current through them and that induces voltage on the wiring within.

SPG's, AKA floating shields work as filters not shields. It acts as a high pass filter to magnetic fields and lo-pass to electrical fields/high freq filter. Shields are grounded at both ends and perform doubly better. I don't think you are going to run into a ground loop issue by grounding both ends and having a low ground transfer impedance. We protect sensitive flight control cables by using an EMI braid terminated to structure on both ends and that sits inches away from cables carrying 640V of power at 400Hz. High speed digital transmission lines also required a low resistance ground at both ends.

Basically the rule of thumb is this. If you are worried about the interference being in the electrical field state then single point grounds work. If you are worried about the inference (especially with low impedance circuits) being EMF (Magnetic field caused by high power) then a shield bonded at both ends is the way to go. The current flow in the shield actually cancels out the EMI.

Double shielded AV wires that you buy are actually protected by a flat shield that works at higher frequencies and a braid that works at lower. This is then grounded at both connections.

[Gary Lewis]

Do like Ford does and use a Faraday sleeve grounded at one end only.

You'll see that symbol on every EVTM page showing an EEC system

Yes! It is important that shields be grounded at one end only. Else there's a current through them and that induces voltage on the wiring within.

SPG's, AKA floating shields work as filters not shields. It acts as a high pass filter to magnetic fields and lo-pass to electrical fields/high freq filter. Shields are grounded at both ends and perform doubly better. I don't think you are going to run into a ground loop issue by grounding both ends and having a low ground transfer impedance. We protect sensitive flight control cables by using an EMI braid terminated to structure on both ends and that sits inches away from cables carrying 640V of power at 400Hz. High speed digital transmission lines also required a low resistance ground at both ends.

Basically the rule of thumb is this. If you are worried about the interference being in the electrical field state then single point grounds work. If you are worried about the inference (especially with low impedance circuits) being EMF (Magnetic field caused by high power) then a shield bonded at both ends is the way to go. The current flow in the shield actually cancels out the EMI.

Double shielded AV wires that you buy are actually protected by a flat shield that works at higher frequencies and a braid that works at lower. This is then grounded at both connections.

Interesting. What about shields that have a ground at one end and a cap at the other? I think I've read about them. I thought the idea was to prevent ground loops but still have a connection at the other end.