WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - Did you have any leakage from the rain?

On the paint, that is RED! Looks like you'll be ready to paint when the weather settles down - which doesn't look like it will happen soon.

Rusty - I don't know enough about your truck to help you find the part numbers. I'd have to know the calibration code in order to do that.

But I think the find of the different symbol pictures will be a big help.

I'm afraid to look

[Nothing Special]

Well today was supposed to be running brake lines on the Bronco. But sometimes plans need to be flexible! My parents decided to go up to their cabin today. They are in their upper 80s and while they get around pretty well, "pretty well" in your upper 80s isn't really all that good. So Lesley and I went up too. We were able to get the water going (had been shut down for the winter) and get a dock in, as well as talk with my folks a bit (we aren't seeing them much with the Covid stuff, but we drove up separately and were able to maintain proper physical distancing on the deck).

Then we decided to pull my parents travel trailer home to try to find where the mice are getting in. The bottom of the trailer is covered with a poly tarp that has plenty of places mice can get through, so I'm hoping when I cut that off I'll see holes in the structure that i can cover up. Sliding around on the gravel at the cabin to do that didn't appeal to me, but in my driveway I can roll around on a creeper. Of course that puts their 32'(?) trailer next to my 28' motorhome, so that can't last for long. Now the Bronco needs to sit until the trailer is back up at their cabin. Hopefully that will just be a week or two.

(edit to add: It's actually a 28' trailer for what that's worth. Still, a 28' trailer and a 28' motorhome fill up a suburban driveway pretty well!)

Anyway, although I didn't get to work ON any trucks, I did get to work WITH one. Here we are parked in the street across from my house after we got home.

And here I get to play with the front receiver to try to get it suffed in right next to the motorhome (you can just barely see the billowing white cover over the motorhome if you look over the top of the trailer). And even with the control and precision of pushing a trailer off a front receiver it still took three tries before I was able to get it turned into the driveway without hitting the motorhome (the motorhome is about a foot away from the right side of the trailer now).

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/WHYDTYTT-What-Have-You-Done-To-Your-Truck-Today-tp148p58204.html

Not working on a truck, but trying to get a project done so I can get back to the Bronco...

The underside of my parents travel trailer had a poly tarp stapled in to protect the underside from road spray I suppose. There are a few gaps in it when wires or hoses need to go through, and we were occasionally seeing acorn hulls fall out of the gaps. So above the tarp seemed like a hood place to look for the hole they were using to get into the camper.

I think I might have found it. Do you think a mouse could fit through here?

This was above the gray tank (I had to take it out to get at this). The hole for the drain pipes to come out of the camper and into the tank is about 14" x 8", easily big enough for a mouse

Here is a shot looking through the access panel under the tub at the same plumbing

It's going to be challenging to cover this hole up, because the pipes need to move a bit when installing or removing the tank. But at least I know what I need to do. There's also a gap around the vent pipe going into the black tank that I can tell they've been using, so I'm going to have to get at that one too. And with an 0 for 2 so far I figure I better look above the fresh water tank as well.

I don't think I'm going to be working on the Bronco this coming weekend.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/WHYDTYTT-What-Have-You-Done-To-Your-Truck-Today-tp148p58226.html

[Gary Lewis]

Not working on a truck, but trying to get a project done so I can get back to the Bronco...

The underside of my parents travel trailer had a poly tarp stapled in to protect the underside from road spray I suppose. There are a few gaps in it when wires or hoses need to go through, and we were occasionally seeing acorn hulls fall out of the gaps. So above the tarp seemed like a hood place to look for the hole they were using to get into the camper.

I think I might have found it. Do you think a mouse could fit through here?

This was above the gray tank (I had to take it out to get at this). The hole for the drain pipes to come out of the camper and into the tank is about 14" x 8", easily big enough for a mouse

Here is a shot looking through the access panel under the tub at the same plumbing

It's going to be challenging to cover this hole up, because the pipes need to move a bit when installing or removing the tank. But at least I know what I need to do. There's also a gap around the vent pipe going into the black tank that I can tell they've been using, so I'm going to have to get at that one too. And with an 0 for 2 so far I figure I better look above the fresh water tank as well.

I don't think I'm going to be working on the Bronco this coming weekend.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/WHYDTYTT-What-Have-You-Done-To-Your-Truck-Today-tp148p58226.html

Jim - You got this! Go look.

Bob - I think an elephant could get through there! So, how are you going to seal it? Them? Any way to put a panel in that seals but can be taken out when needed?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim - You got this! Go look.

Bob - I think an elephant could get through there! So, how are you going to seal it? Them? Any way to put a panel in that seals but can be taken out when needed?

I don't even want to know.

If there IS water in the gutter formed by the weatherstrip flange I'm getting out the unibit and making a big drain hole.

I'll consider having the floor sprayed with bedliner instead of looking for a new mat.

Mine is shot

[Rusty_S85]

Jim - Did you have any leakage from the rain?

On the paint, that is RED! Looks like you'll be ready to paint when the weather settles down - which doesn't look like it will happen soon.

Rusty - I don't know enough about your truck to help you find the part numbers. I'd have to know the calibration code in order to do that.

But I think the find of the different symbol pictures will be a big help.

Looking in the parts and illustration guide there can only be one calibration option for my truck. My truck is not high altitude as it says on the emission decal for 6,000 feet and below. I also know my truck left the factory without AC but has dealer AC installed.

This gives me a calibration code of 262. From there I was able to find the following part numbers.

EGR valve assembly : E6PZ-9D448-T CX-1226

Sensor Assy. (Air cleaner air temperature control) : D4ZZ-9E607-B

Vacuum Motor Assy. (Carb air cleaner) : D7TZ-9D612-B CX-120

Valve Assy. (Carb air cleaner temp sensor override) : D5DZ-9E862-B

Valve Assy. (Air cleaner vacuum control delay) : D8AZ-9E897-B D8AE-B1A,B2A

Valve Assy. (Carb air vacuum control) : D5AZ-9A995-A D5AF-CA

Valve Assy. (Dist. vacuum control) : D9TZ-12A091-A DY-257 / D9TE-BA Color Code : Pink

Distributor Assy. : E2TZ-12127-AC DA-1947 / E2TE-12127-ACA

Restrictor (Dist. vacuum) : D9ZZ-12A225-A / Color Code : Yellow

EGR Vacuum Control : D7BZ-9D473-B CX-1388

That is all I could find in my parts and illustration guide from Calibraiton Code 262. Like wise I don't know since my truck has dealer AC if I should be thinking of using the calibration code for with AC. I mean after all most of those components listed above I wont be using in the first place as emission systems are being gutted as much as possible.

Only thing I know I will be using is the following.

D4ZZ-9E607-B

D7TZ-9D612-B

D7BZ-9D473-B

I know I will want to retain the air temp sensor in the aircleaner for working the OE aircleaner cold/hot air vacuum motor. I also know I will be keeping the EGR vacuum control it is just a two port temp vacuum switch which will be used to activate the purge solenoid on the charcoal canister. I am not sure if it will be a problem using a tee as the holley sniper stealth only has one ported vacuum port which is listed as timed vacuum for your distributor. I know I will try running my distributor off this port but I will also need to splice into it for my ability to purge my charcoal canister.

the other things I do not know about. Like in my almost complete emission decal as shown below it appears there is a vacuum control device that uses manifold vacuum as well as ported vacuum at the same time through some kind of switch which I do not know if its thermal based or not. I do not know if I want to retain this function how ever. My ignition system will be all OE DSII minus the distributor being recurved to my engine specs.

Other systems such as EGR wont be used as my AFR cylinder heads does not have exhaust cross over ports and my intake manifold has no EGR port anyways which was a waste of money in my eyes to get said intake manifold when heads wont be capable of providing exhaust for the EGR. The air pump system will not be on the truck either, as the AFR cylinder heads I opted out for does not have the thermactor ports as I did not plan on running a converter, and without a converter like my truck is currently if you chop throttle at wide open throttle real quick you get a loud back fire in the exhaust due to raw fuel and air being in the exhaust. With the possibility of me running the magnaflow Y pipe for a '84 - '94 F-series/Bronco truck that has a built in precat what I am hearing and a aftermarket cat, if this does not hinder my new performance based engine build I will use this setup just without the air injection. Would see if I could get Magnaflow to substitute a converter without air tube that they do offer.

As far as the decal goes, there is some sensor in the vacuum advance circuit that manifold vacuum from the vacuum tree goes through before it goes to the VR V. I do not know what this is as my OE decal is not labeled and I cant find the same drawing anywhere online. I had to make that drawing from almost scratch.

1982_F150_Emission_Decal_-_wip_7_Resized.bmp

And a cropped version of above to show the detail of the vacuum hose routing a bit better.

1982_F150_Emission_Decal_-_wip_7_vacuum_hose_diagram_resized.bmp

I also picked up a NOS thermostat housing for my 302 as well as I want to use a new one for my 306. I just cant remember if mine has anything threaded into the thermostat housing or not. I want to say my temp operated vacuum switch screws in there after the thermostat while the heater hose goes before the thermostat.

[Angelo Voltura]

Jim - You got this! Go look.

Bob - I think an elephant could get through there! So, how are you going to seal it? Them? Any way to put a panel in that seals but can be taken out when needed?

Think we got most of the fuel system figured out in dads for running dual tanks with the Atomic EFI. I believe we are going to dead head it and see if we can set it up return less.

The truck will utilize factory single feed returnless 1987 sending units with the low pressure pumps replaced with high pressure Aeromotive. Each pump will be tied to a 1 way switch that will tie to two seperate relays, 1 per pump, the circuit will complete either pump with whichever selection we make.

For the selector system, believe it or not it was pretty easy to setup. The sending unit per tank will send a feed line to a Y fitting, with a 1 way check valve per input line. This way neither tank can back feed to the other.

Following that will be to a 10 micron fuel filter then to the throttle body. If need be later on we can setup a return, but I believe we can set it up to only pull what it needs.

[Rusty_S85]

Think we got most of the fuel system figured out in dads for running dual tanks with the Atomic EFI. I believe we are going to dead head it and see if we can set it up return less.

The truck will utilize factory single feed returnless 1987 sending units with the low pressure pumps replaced with high pressure Aeromotive. Each pump will be tied to a 1 way switch that will tie to two seperate relays, 1 per pump, the circuit will complete either pump with whichever selection we make.

For the selector system, believe it or not it was pretty easy to setup. The sending unit per tank will send a feed line to a Y fitting, with a 1 way check valve per input line. This way neither tank can back feed to the other.

Following that will be to a 10 micron fuel filter then to the throttle body. If need be later on we can setup a return, but I believe we can set it up to only pull what it needs.

Can the Atomic EFI be deadheaded? without a return of any kind your pressure will spike unless you are running a regulated fuel pump that has a built in fuel pump regulator or you are wiring it up to some kind of fuel pump control module that will vary the current to the pump to maintain proper fuel pressure.

[Angelo Voltura]

Can the Atomic EFI be deadheaded? without a return of any kind your pressure will spike unless you are running a regulated fuel pump that has a built in fuel pump regulator or you are wiring it up to some kind of fuel pump control module that will vary the current to the pump to maintain proper fuel pressure.

It can be dead headed if you use a pulse-type fuel pump, in their included instructions it gives you options and part numbers of various pumps including their own brand that is compatible with the unit itself. That is what we opted to do since the tanks and sending units are new. It actually comes with a plug for the return port on the throttle body.

The relays for the pumps are on a module tied in with the ignition, so when the key comes on the pump currently selected primes for 5 seconds before starting. I'm hoping this cures all the cold start issues as that has been a nightmare with this Holley 4160 lately.

[Nothing Special]

.... Bob - I think an elephant could get through there! So, how are you going to seal it? Them? Any way to put a panel in that seals but can be taken out when needed?

The challenge is that the two drain pipes that come down through that hole slide down through grommets into the top of the holding tank. And the holding tank needs to slide back 1" after the pipes are connected. So they can't be sealed up before installing the tank. and it's really hard to get at it after the tank is installed.

So my plan is to put a panel over the hole with slots that will allow the pipes to move back and forth an inch or so, install the tank, and then try to spray some of that expanding foam stuff in through the access panel from the top. We'll see how well that works, but I don't see any other way.

Well that's not quite true. The reason the tank has to move back after the pipes are connected is that the back of the tank sits on a flange on one of the trailer cross members. I could use a death wheel to trim the bottom off of the crossmember and make a new one that I can bolt in (that's already how the front of the tank is supported). But that really doesn't appeal to me. So I'm going to try the foam.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/WHYDTYTT-What-Have-You-Done-To-Your-Truck-Today-tp148p58287.html

[Gary Lewis]

.... Bob - I think an elephant could get through there! So, how are you going to seal it? Them? Any way to put a panel in that seals but can be taken out when needed?

The challenge is that the two drain pipes that come down through that hole slide down through grommets into the top of the holding tank. And the holding tank needs to slide back 1" after the pipes are connected. So they can't be sealed up before installing the tank. and it's really hard to get at it after the tank is installed.

So my plan is to put a panel over the hole with slots that will allow the pipes to move back and forth an inch or so, install the tank, and then try to spray some of that expanding foam stuff in through the access panel from the top. We'll see how well that works, but I don't see any other way.

Well that's not quite true. The reason the tank has to move back after the pipes are connected is that the back of the tank sits on a flange on one of the trailer cross members. I could use a death wheel to trim the bottom off of the crossmember and make a new one that I can bolt in (that's already how the front of the tank is supported). But that really doesn't appeal to me. So I'm going to try the foam.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/WHYDTYTT-What-Have-You-Done-To-Your-Truck-Today-tp148p58287.html

Death wheel? Meaning a cutoff wheel?

I like the foam idea. And I'm sure you know there are at least two varieties - low expansion and lotsa expansion. The former is more dense and harder to cut out due to having fewer bubbles. The latter makes a bigger mess but is easier to get out.