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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Has anyone run into problems with the steel wheels fitting the rotor hub? I have an '82 F100, so I have the small 4 1/2 bolt circle. I have some 15 x 6 wheels, that I did have on my Ranger, but that originally came from an F100. I am painting these wheels to use and slipping them on the rotors was a no-go. There is a step in the hub ( China I'm sure ). I had to grind the hub slightly with a flap disc to get the steel wheel to slide on. Damn crap parts!! :) The color is tropical turquoise, a Ford color.

Pete - You do realize that some F100's had the larger bolt pattern wheels. Right?

Anyway, the Fords seemed to have required a larger center hole than the Dodges, so is there a chance your wheels came from a Dodge or another brand?

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Pete - You do realize that some F100's had the larger bolt pattern wheels. Right?

Anyway, the Fords seemed to have required a larger center hole than the Dodges, so is there a chance your wheels came from a Dodge or another brand?

No, wheels are Ford, stamped on them. Its the cheap rotors that were the problem.No reason for a machined step on the hub. I was just asking is anyone has come across this . . .not many of y0u are running steel wheels I'm sure. The aluminum wheels clear the step easily.

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No, wheels are Ford, stamped on them. Its the cheap rotors that were the problem.No reason for a machined step on the hub. I was just asking is anyone has come across this . . .not many of y0u are running steel wheels I'm sure. The aluminum wheels clear the step easily.

Ok, thanks for the explanation.

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Jim - I could swap pans as the one on Big Blue is dented but the one on the '90 isn't. That way the spare 460 has something to protect the crank, and maybe even set it on until it is needed or sold. :nabble_smiley_good:

Ray - You are making good progress. Please start a build thread and tell us more about the truck. :nabble_smiley_wink:

If you changed pans, you would get the later style click in T - handle dipstick, right?

My truck has always been on steel wheels.

Though I did scrap the plastic Argent wheel covers for dog dish because the slotted ones would pack with mud and ice throwing my balance off.

When the stock ones got wallowed out I ordered Wheel Vintiques through Summit's eBay store.

Lowest price and free shipping, just like when I replaced my hub-rotor-race combo a few months back.

Today I'm going to make some taillights for the flatbed you see the Zf on.

Maybe I will replace the leaking hose in the wheel lift too.

Lil' Red needs forward spring shackles. But that will have to wait until I have more cash because they're stupid expensive for what they are.

I'm going to try an find a functional wiper motor.

First is to get Gary's parts off to Podunk and out of my truck.

Then I need to start stripping and cleaning the F3 engine.

Then I need to port my heads and order a cam & spring kit from Scott.

And I still need to replace the DS floor before the snow and salt arrive.

 

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If you changed pans, you would get the later style click in T - handle dipstick, right?

My truck has always been on steel wheels.

Though I did scrap the plastic Argent wheel covers for dog dish because the slotted ones would pack with mud and ice throwing my balance off.

When the stock ones got wallowed out I ordered Wheel Vintiques through Summit's eBay store.

Lowest price and free shipping, just like when I replaced my hub-rotor-race combo a few months back.

Today I'm going to make some taillights for the flatbed you see the Zf on.

Maybe I will replace the leaking hose in the wheel lift too.

Lil' Red needs forward spring shackles. But that will have to wait until I have more cash because they're stupid expensive for what they are.

I'm going to try an find a functional wiper motor.

First is to get Gary's parts off to Podunk and out of my truck.

Then I need to start stripping and cleaning the F3 engine.

Then I need to port my heads and order a cam & spring kit from Scott.

And I still need to replace the DS floor before the snow and salt arrive.

Yes, the pan I’m looking at has the click-in dip stick. That and the one-piece gasket would probably solve those leaks. Then new seals front and rear, new valve cover gaskets, and new intake gaskets and the engine might be dry.

Then there’s the tranny, which also leaks. So the “new” ZF5 will go in. And while the engine is out the core support will be swapped with the one Jonathan gave me. And the oil cooler will be repositioned, which will allow for the new grille to go on. And the fuel lines will be completely redone, with a return-style regulator installed in place of the vapor separator. Plus I’ll put a plate under the engine mount on the driver’s side to get some clearance from the frame for the header. Oh, and install the 3G alternator, and maybe the serpentine system you are shipping me.

Other than that, not much to do. 🙈

Jim - By front spring perches you mean the rubber, not the steel part. Right?

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Yes, the pan I’m looking at has the click-in dip stick. That and the one-piece gasket would probably solve those leaks. Then new seals front and rear, new valve cover gaskets, and new intake gaskets and the engine might be dry.

Then there’s the tranny, which also leaks. So the “new” ZF5 will go in. And while the engine is out the core support will be swapped with the one Jonathan gave me. And the oil cooler will be repositioned, which will allow for the new grille to go on. And the fuel lines will be completely redone, with a return-style regulator installed in place of the vapor separator. Plus I’ll put a plate under the engine mount on the driver’s side to get some clearance from the frame for the header. Oh, and install the 3G alternator, and maybe the serpentine system you are shipping me.

Other than that, not much to do. 🙈

Jim - By front spring perches you mean the rubber, not the steel part. Right?

250 shackles fit up into the frame horns and have a tiny little bushing at the front (top) end.

The kit has the link with bushings bonded in and new bolts (because you're going to have to CUT it out.

Still $120 my cost -almost- 2 retail.

I need both sides.

Yet I get a rear spring perch hanger and shackle kit with bolts for $45.

Wtf?

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250 shackles fit up into the frame horns and have a tiny little bushing at the front (top) end.

The kit has the link with bushings bonded in and new bolts (because you're going to have to CUT it out.

Still $120 my cost -almost- 2 retail.

I need both sides.

Yet I get a rear spring perch hanger and shackle kit with bolts for $45.

Wtf?

I’m not sure I understand, but I think you are saying the spring shackles off the ‘90 won’t help. Right?

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Yes, the pan I’m looking at has the click-in dip stick. That and the one-piece gasket would probably solve those leaks. Then new seals front and rear, new valve cover gaskets, and new intake gaskets and the engine might be dry.

Then there’s the tranny, which also leaks. So the “new” ZF5 will go in. And while the engine is out the core support will be swapped with the one Jonathan gave me. And the oil cooler will be repositioned, which will allow for the new grille to go on. And the fuel lines will be completely redone, with a return-style regulator installed in place of the vapor separator. Plus I’ll put a plate under the engine mount on the driver’s side to get some clearance from the frame for the header. Oh, and install the 3G alternator, and maybe the serpentine system you are shipping me.

Other than that, not much to do. 🙈

Jim - By front spring perches you mean the rubber, not the steel part. Right?

Before you go to the work of making a plate etc. Check against the 90 perches and see if they seem different, the missing bolts may have allowed the ones on Big Blue to sag a little, maybe even have a significant bend in them.

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