Rusty_S85 Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 Spent the better part of the day looking at 3G regulators. Apparently there are at least two different white regulators with the soft start function but cant find anything more about them. First is the F4ZU-10316-AC part number and all I could find on this is its a 14.5v regulator with a 2 second soft start but no mention of what amperage alternator it is for. Second is the F5RZ-10316-A part number and all I could find on this one is that its a 10 second soft start but no mention of voltage setting on it nor what amperage alternator it is for. Seems like every new 3G alternator I look at has a grey regulator with no markings on it. So I will have to replace the regulator with a proper motorcraft one but not sure which one would be proper for a 95A alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Spent the better part of the day looking at 3G regulators. Apparently there are at least two different white regulators with the soft start function but cant find anything more about them. First is the F4ZU-10316-AC part number and all I could find on this is its a 14.5v regulator with a 2 second soft start but no mention of what amperage alternator it is for. Second is the F5RZ-10316-A part number and all I could find on this one is that its a 10 second soft start but no mention of voltage setting on it nor what amperage alternator it is for. Seems like every new 3G alternator I look at has a grey regulator with no markings on it. So I will have to replace the regulator with a proper motorcraft one but not sure which one would be proper for a 95A alternator. The amperage is determined by the stator windings and diodes, the regulator only control the voltage, soft start is to keep the belt from slipping on startup. for a low output like 95 amps, the 2 second soft start should be adequate. I think I have the 10 second on mine, but is an uprated 130 amp unit (160 amps) and it would squeal the polygroove belt. I finally put a larger pulley on it as no amount of tension would keep from getting rubber dust on the alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 The amperage is determined by the stator windings and diodes, the regulator only control the voltage, soft start is to keep the belt from slipping on startup. for a low output like 95 amps, the 2 second soft start should be adequate. I think I have the 10 second on mine, but is an uprated 130 amp unit (160 amps) and it would squeal the polygroove belt. I finally put a larger pulley on it as no amount of tension would keep from getting rubber dust on the alternator. Ah. Hmm I wonder if I could upgrade to a 130A alternator and go with the 10 second delay. Would give me more of a buffer. But I just don't want any kind of belt squeal. I hate it and I don't want to have a nice sounding running engine and have a belt squeal. on the soft start, I heard it functions two ways, one way I heard is that for like the 2 second soft start that the alternator will engage output 2 seconds after startup. The other way I heard it described is that the output slowly ramps up over the time frame so for a 2 second or 10 second it would slowly ramp output up over the 2 to 10 seconds. It seems like I can find the 10 second soft start a lot easier for NOS motorcraft regulators than I can for the 2 second one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Spent the better part of the day looking at 3G regulators. Apparently there are at least two different white regulators with the soft start function but cant find anything more about them. First is the F4ZU-10316-AC part number and all I could find on this is its a 14.5v regulator with a 2 second soft start but no mention of what amperage alternator it is for. Second is the F5RZ-10316-A part number and all I could find on this one is that its a 10 second soft start but no mention of voltage setting on it nor what amperage alternator it is for. Seems like every new 3G alternator I look at has a grey regulator with no markings on it. So I will have to replace the regulator with a proper motorcraft one but not sure which one would be proper for a 95A alternator. I do think if you purchase a 3G intended for a loaded Lincoln you should get an LRC regulator. At least that's what that application calls for. I bought my regulator on eBay and its done away with the annoying chirp on startup. It ramps over time, in both cases. The larger case and diode board heatsink of the 130A 3G give you more headroom, but obviously the regulator is only going to call for the power needed to keep the system at 14.35V, or whatever the set point is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 I do think if you purchase a 3G intended for a loaded Lincoln you should get an LRC regulator. At least that's what that application calls for. I bought my regulator on eBay and its done away with the annoying chirp on startup. It ramps over time, in both cases. The larger case and diode board heatsink of the 130A 3G give you more headroom, but obviously the regulator is only going to call for the power needed to keep the system at 14.35V, or whatever the set point is. Well that's a bummer. Was told the motor had a 400 crank in her. Not so. Oh well. Still ran good for an M. Guess my signature needs updating as a 357. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Well that's a bummer. Was told the motor had a 400 crank in her. Not so. Oh well. Still ran good for an M. Guess my signature needs updating as a 357. So, you have your cam and lifters now? What do you think about 4V heads on a smaller displacement? What carb will you be running, Angelo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 So, you have your cam and lifters now? What do you think about 4V heads on a smaller displacement? What carb will you be running, Angelo? Yes I received it the other day. Summit Racing did me right and next day aired me a fresh cam and box of lifters to replace the one I was missing without even questioning it. I threw the idea around with 4v heads, I've thrown boost around etc. Route I'm going here is just a nice street motor. It ran good before, so I'm just bringing it back to where it should be, although upgrading weak links that weren't the first time such as the valve springs. The cam I chose uses an operating range of 1800-5200rpm which as far as I'm concerned matches perfectly with the 2V heads and RPM limitations of the engine by inherent design (9.5" pushrods are stupid long). I am still using a stock stall torque converter and the cam card requires a 2000 stall minimum so I will probabaly be upgrading that as well this summer. Not only that, but the truck is heavy and needs some lower RPM torque. If it was a Cleveland in a car that I wouldn't be scared of turning to 7500rpm I would run 4V heads all day long. But I'll never see those kind of RPMs to make them usable. I am running an Edelbrock 1406 with the electric choke removed. This may change in the future, I always felt it was a bit small at 600cfm. Eventually, when all is said and done, it'll have a stroker big block, but for now I just want to drive it and smoke some tires. She didn't have a problem doing that before ;)Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 Yes I received it the other day. Summit Racing did me right and next day aired me a fresh cam and box of lifters to replace the one I was missing without even questioning it. I threw the idea around with 4v heads, I've thrown boost around etc. Route I'm going here is just a nice street motor. It ran good before, so I'm just bringing it back to where it should be, although upgrading weak links that weren't the first time such as the valve springs. The cam I chose uses an operating range of 1800-5200rpm which as far as I'm concerned matches perfectly with the 2V heads and RPM limitations of the engine by inherent design (9.5" pushrods are stupid long). I am still using a stock stall torque converter and the cam card requires a 2000 stall minimum so I will probabaly be upgrading that as well this summer. Not only that, but the truck is heavy and needs some lower RPM torque. If it was a Cleveland in a car that I wouldn't be scared of turning to 7500rpm I would run 4V heads all day long. But I'll never see those kind of RPMs to make them usable. I am running an Edelbrock 1406 with the electric choke removed. This may change in the future, I always felt it was a bit small at 600cfm. Eventually, when all is said and done, it'll have a stroker big block, but for now I just want to drive it and smoke some tires. She didn't have a problem doing that before ;) You need a DeTomaso Pantera to go with the 4V heads, and a rack of four Webers down the middle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_S85 Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 I do think if you purchase a 3G intended for a loaded Lincoln you should get an LRC regulator. At least that's what that application calls for. I bought my regulator on eBay and its done away with the annoying chirp on startup. It ramps over time, in both cases. The larger case and diode board heatsink of the 130A 3G give you more headroom, but obviously the regulator is only going to call for the power needed to keep the system at 14.35V, or whatever the set point is. If I went with the 130A variant it would allow me to upgrade by adding more lights down the road. Currently im at 35.96A with my high beam on, driving lights on, cb and cb amp on. not including other circuits such as whats on the truck to start with or the fuel injection I will be installing. If I add four more auxiliary lights in the form of daylighters that would be 400 watts which would put my total auxiliary circuit at 67.20A which is quite a bit. Would also require I run a larger than 10ga wire to my auxiliary fuse box which I don't think is possible. But 130A would give me more wiggle room. The 95A would be cutting it close but I was thinking I could go with LED based lights from KC on my roll bar if I even run one. just probably wont be as bright as the 100w halogen versions. Ill look at lincolns online, I was looking at a 97 F250 7.5L 95A alternator I think that is the 8 1/4" ear spacing that I need for my '82 with a V belt. Then I found out from rock auto that 92-95 Aerostar is the same. Rock auto has a '92 aerostar alternator by power select without a pulley for $101.95 brand new. I might go with that one if its the same 8 1/4" ear spacing. Photo shows a grey colored regulator so I doubt it is the delayed regulator. it is aftermarket with no markings and it seems they all are grey now. If I knew 150% without a doubt with the 10 second delay regulator would eliminate belt squeal I would gladly run a 130A alternator. Would mean it will last way longer for me with the limited draw my truck has currently. Even with four more 100w auxiliary lights wouldn't put my whole truck over 80A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 You need a DeTomaso Pantera to go with the 4V heads, and a rack of four Webers down the middle... Don't tempt me to do something drastic... Don't grill me cause she ain't a bull :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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