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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Ouch, that sucks. That has always been a fear of mine with all I been ordering from summit for my 306 build. On the stickers, ive gotten lots of packages from summit with no stickers included.

Summit I like them but they got on my bad side this past October when I tried to order custom AFR 165 Renegade heads from them on the phone. They said they had to figure it up and would call me back but only one person in all of summit could do it. I was like ok that's fine. Gave it 2 days no call back, gave them a call got someone else they saw no record and they put a call in to the same person for the order and would call me back. Gave it 2 more days no call back and I called Jegs and ordered from them one call got the custom order done with no headaches nor hassles.

Summit heard about this through a comment I posted on fb on their ads asking if its common for their business to tell customers they will call them back on a custom order twice and never call back. One of the managers said they would make it right on me by letting me have the Blueprint 306 short block for $2,099.99 instead of $2,499.99. Problem is I messaged him if the free shipping on $100+ orders would include a lift gate service or how it would be done for this. Never got a reply back from that manager. If I do order the blueprint engine from them I will be calling in with the name of this manager and demanding the order be placed at $2,099.99 otherwise I will go else where.

Just a slap in the face to me after I spent nearly $6,000 worth of parts in the course of a year for my 306 build and then when it comes to the heads they just go to crap on me. Then I got a carb from them for my el camino a dualjet, first one had the right idle circuit blocked off called them up to send another they wanted me to send the carb in and it would take about 7 weeks to get a replacement sent to me. Uh no, I spent enough money with the company and been screwed enough the past 3 months you send me another carb and ill ship this one back when it comes in. New carb comes in and it starts acting up after three weeks so I wrote it off and going to get a brand new one from napa. Summit then sent me a letter how they never got the other carb back. Well I don't know what to tell them I said on the phone the packaged up box was on the front porch for 4 days and it was gone on my lunch break on day 4 so if ups didn't get it then I guess someone stole it off the front porch.

So for me the 306 short block that I have to order once I get my CC bill paid off will most likely come from someone other than summit. They have done good by me for years but so much wrong in such a short period of time has me washing my hands of them.

I guess all I can do now is call them and wait.

What a setback.

On the flip side I laid some paint on a head to see if I liked it. I think I'm going to go with it.

Snapchat-663839587.thumb.jpg.ba08a5f94bed199f098ae092ccadbcdd.jpg

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I guess all I can do now is call them and wait.

What a setback.

On the flip side I laid some paint on a head to see if I liked it. I think I'm going to go with it.

Well I got ahold of Summit and they are sending me a box of lifters and another cam, next day air at no cost to me.

Excellent customer service.

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What about the sticker???

You know that adds 15hp right there!

😅

Today I completed electrical repairs to my electrical system.

(Note- the engine is removed for an overhaul at the moment)

First, some harness plug replacments/repairs:

IMG_20200406_2007431.thumb.jpg.2af34ab1a3c23bfe4269cc483808a30a.jpg

Replaced the TFI and coil connectors, and repaired the EGR solenoid connector. I also replaced the temp gauge sensor connector (not shown). Yes, I did put in a bullet plug for the SPOUT wire; the original disconnect was intact but it was pretty corroded.

I also installed a new battery ground cable and ran dedicated grounds for my radios (the stereo and CB):

The loose spade connector is for the ECU ground. I ran the two new ground wires through the exising HVAC wiring grommet and from there to the radios (no more chassis ground connections other than via antenna cables).

The battery cable I used is this:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Everstart-LF51-4L-77-4-Gauge-Top-Post-Battery-Cable-51-Inches/16006693

I then took the existing aux wire (12 gauge?) and crimped it to two 16 gauge wires (scraps from the new TFI pigtail), which from there breaks off to two spades. One connects to the ECU ground (chopped the stock connector, it was frozen), the other connects to the two 18 gauge wires that go to the radios. The main cable length is just about perfect (same as the switch-to-starter cable when both routed with the HVAC harness). Laugh about it being a walmart part, but the build quality is good and is a nice upgrade from the bolt-on battery terminal that was there previously.

IMG_20200406_2008321.thumb.jpg.492e01e58e8c90e2b0cfb13191605d8c.jpg

IMG_20200406_2008541.thumb.jpg.fe3c009cdd27cbf88a62cca2bfaf567d.jpg

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Today I completed electrical repairs to my electrical system.

(Note- the engine is removed for an overhaul at the moment)

First, some harness plug replacments/repairs:

Replaced the TFI and coil connectors, and repaired the EGR solenoid connector. I also replaced the temp gauge sensor connector (not shown). Yes, I did put in a bullet plug for the SPOUT wire; the original disconnect was intact but it was pretty corroded.

I also installed a new battery ground cable and ran dedicated grounds for my radios (the stereo and CB):

The loose spade connector is for the ECU ground. I ran the two new ground wires through the exising HVAC wiring grommet and from there to the radios (no more chassis ground connections other than via antenna cables).

The battery cable I used is this:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Everstart-LF51-4L-77-4-Gauge-Top-Post-Battery-Cable-51-Inches/16006693

I then took the existing aux wire (12 gauge?) and crimped it to two 16 gauge wires (scraps from the new TFI pigtail), which from there breaks off to two spades. One connects to the ECU ground (chopped the stock connector, it was frozen), the other connects to the two 18 gauge wires that go to the radios. The main cable length is just about perfect (same as the switch-to-starter cable when both routed with the HVAC harness). Laugh about it being a walmart part, but the build quality is good and is a nice upgrade from the bolt-on battery terminal that was there previously.

IMG_20200406_162907.jpg.04f07415fab8ce278e7c85a856445579.jpgIMG_20200406_162718.jpg.eddffaecff0d560f7d3977542008edc5.jpgIMG_20200404_101759.jpg.da56651619d168987fa889d333959b58.jpgScreenshot_20200404-121200.png.5ccf8ff15c88c5232c6906a89ca75ad3.png

Deçided to tackle my bad flywheel ring gear myself with spending more time at home. Took some time to clean up the bellhousing trans and transfer case while I'm waiting on new ring gear and all new seals for everything I took apart. Fresh fluids and should be back in action, with some change left in my pocket.

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Deçided to tackle my bad flywheel ring gear myself with spending more time at home. Took some time to clean up the bellhousing trans and transfer case while I'm waiting on new ring gear and all new seals for everything I took apart. Fresh fluids and should be back in action, with some change left in my pocket.

Ratdude - That looks good. Should fix things up nicely.

Dee - Well done. But how are you removing and replacing the ring gear? I was able to move mine by heating it with a MAPP gas torch, but didn't try to take it all the way off.

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Ratdude - That looks good. Should fix things up nicely.

Dee - Well done. But how are you removing and replacing the ring gear? I was able to move mine by heating it with a MAPP gas torch, but didn't try to take it all the way off.

Back at the barn, it's time to get after some nagging issues.

I pulled my drums to install new brake hardware and figure out why my parking brake is so poor.

IMG_20200406_142522.thumb.jpg.058a2f7ed60395bfbd296acdd18d5d9d.jpg

IMG_20200406_142526.thumb.jpg.962a9b7b44ba07f7af82fbfaefc46eea.jpg

Wow!

Baby needs a new pair of shoes!

It's rare to see cracking this bad.

I spent at least an hour with a chipping hammer picking structural rust off the drums.

Phosphoric metal prep, and a coat of BBQ black before they go back on.

I lubed my speedo cable, as it has been jumping around lately.

While I was under there I took Bill's advice and removed the shield on my saddle tank, while looking for a leak.

I didn't find the leak, but I did find a bunch of sticks and stuff jammed up on top of the tank between the crossmember.

I took some heavy grey polypropylene to make new rub strips.

I heated it with a torch to smooth the cut edges and get it to mold into place as I tightened the strap.

I also started getting my cab ready for new floor and rocker on the drivers side.

I know I have a leak from the bottom of the cowl.

Clearing everything out, and laying out my patch panels will give my a course of action.

And then, there's the whole front end to rebuild!

That has to wait a little longer.

One project at a time.

(Will edit in pics when on my phone)

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Ratdude - That looks good. Should fix things up nicely.

Dee - Well done. But how are you removing and replacing the ring gear? I was able to move mine by heating it with a MAPP gas torch, but didn't try to take it all the way off.

Gonna heat it up with acetylene torch and heat it up enough to expand. Reverse the process for the install of the new one

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Gonna heat it up with acetylene torch and heat it up enough to expand. Reverse the process for the install of the new one

Jim - Glad you caught those brakes when you did. :nabble_smiley_scared:

And you've laid out a lot of work. Good luck to you. Are you going to report here or start a thread?

Brian - Sorry I called you Dee. Anyway, note how far onto the flywheel the ring gear is before you start. Mine wasn't fully back against the ridge.

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