ArdWrknTrk Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 ... and on a more current note... It took a couple of days, but I got a chance to piece things together a bit. I "eased" the booster mounting holes in the angle bracket so the studs from the hydroboost would fit. But in the process of doing that I realized that the pushrod that goes into the boost unit doesn't come out easily. I'm sure I could get it out to modify it, but I don't want to end up with something that would take a lot of fab work if I have to replace the boost unit. I want to just be able to get a boost unit for a '95 GMC Astro and be able to stick it in. So disassembling the unit to remove and modify the pushrod doesn't support the goals. The pushrod in the hydroboost is quite a bit longer than the one on the old vacuum booster. 2 3/8" in fact. And the hole in it is bigger than the one in the vacuum booster. But I can bush the hole, and if I space the hydroboost away from the angle plate the right amount I should be able to use the stock pushrod. To check it out I made some spacers that were 1" long, which was the most I could move it out using the studs that came in the booster. Below are some pics of how that sits in the Bronco. I think it'll work out well! I'm probably going to have to move a homemade power distribution box I have on top of the driver's side inner fender. But that's the only thing that it looks like will interfere. It looks like the reservoirs are sticking up pretty far, but there's still clearance when the hood is shut! So the next step is to get some 2 3/8" spacers, some longer bolts to replace the studs and a bushing to adapt the hole in the pushrod to the pin for the bellcrank. Then I should be able to bolt everything together! Here's a picture showing how the lengths of the old and new pushrods compare: And here are a couple that show the hydroboost in place with the 1" spacers. It'll be moved another 1 3/8" away from the angle bracket the next time it goes in. A metal droplight, how quaint! Oh man! How I appreciated LED bulbs. No more burning the side of your neck when you had to push your head past to actually see what you're doing. No more instant darkness when you're in there and it falls even 6" to the floor. Of course *now* I have a Horrid Fate, Bauer, magnetic base, 180* folding head, LED worklight now that puts out more lumens than the surface of the sun, when set on high. Probably the best $28 I ever spent in that store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 A metal droplight, how quaint! Oh man! How I appreciated LED bulbs. No more burning the side of your neck when you had to push your head past to actually see what you're doing. No more instant darkness when you're in there and it falls even 6" to the floor. Of course I have a Horrid Fate, Bauer, magnetic base, 180* folding head, LED worklight now that puts out more lumens than the surface of the sun, when set on high. Probably the best $28 I ever spent in that store. I'm still rockin' an old metal droplight...and I have a brand new one with the cord still coiled up as a spare for when my existing 20 year old light finally bites the dust...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 A metal droplight, how quaint! Oh man! How I appreciated LED bulbs. No more burning the side of your neck when you had to push your head past to actually see what you're doing. No more instant darkness when you're in there and it falls even 6" to the floor. Of course I have a Horrid Fate, Bauer, magnetic base, 180* folding head, LED worklight now that puts out more lumens than the surface of the sun, when set on high. Probably the best $28 I ever spent in that store. I'm still rockin' an old metal droplight...and I have a brand new one with the cord still coiled up as a spare for when my existing 20 year old light finally bites the dust...lol. Use an LED bulb in it and never again have to suffer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Who needs a pavement slab to roll a hoist on to pull an engine? Actually in my case I have the pavement, just not the engine hoist. So this is how I pulled my engine a couple years ago. I called it "Getting in touch with my inner redneck!" The ladder in the background explains how you got to the come-along to pick up the engine, but it looks like you had to be standing on the top of the ladder to do it. Yes? I hope not, but if so I'll tell my story. So, how did you keep the strap (tree saver?) from slipping? Is there a knot or something we can't see that prevented that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 ... and on a more current note... It took a couple of days, but I got a chance to piece things together a bit. I "eased" the booster mounting holes in the angle bracket so the studs from the hydroboost would fit. But in the process of doing that I realized that the pushrod that goes into the boost unit doesn't come out easily. I'm sure I could get it out to modify it, but I don't want to end up with something that would take a lot of fab work if I have to replace the boost unit. I want to just be able to get a boost unit for a '95 GMC Astro and be able to stick it in. So disassembling the unit to remove and modify the pushrod doesn't support the goals. The pushrod in the hydroboost is quite a bit longer than the one on the old vacuum booster. 2 3/8" in fact. And the hole in it is bigger than the one in the vacuum booster. But I can bush the hole, and if I space the hydroboost away from the angle plate the right amount I should be able to use the stock pushrod. To check it out I made some spacers that were 1" long, which was the most I could move it out using the studs that came in the booster. Below are some pics of how that sits in the Bronco. I think it'll work out well! I'm probably going to have to move a homemade power distribution box I have on top of the driver's side inner fender. But that's the only thing that it looks like will interfere. It looks like the reservoirs are sticking up pretty far, but there's still clearance when the hood is shut! So the next step is to get some 2 3/8" spacers, some longer bolts to replace the studs and a bushing to adapt the hole in the pushrod to the pin for the bellcrank. Then I should be able to bolt everything together! Here's a picture showing how the lengths of the old and new pushrods compare: And here are a couple that show the hydroboost in place with the 1" spacers. It'll be moved another 1 3/8" away from the angle bracket the next time it goes in. Bob - Can you use coupling nuts, both as spacers as well as to accept bolts from the bracket? On the metal trouble light, I threw mine away decades ago after I burned the interior of whatever I was working on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Use an LED bulb in it and never again have to suffer. Nothing Special....It's called "shade tree" for a reason, been there, done that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 A metal droplight, how quaint!.... It's an old-school vehicle, it deserves an old-school trouble light! And the "rugged service" bulbs hold up pretty well too. Nothing Special....It's called "shade tree" for a reason, been there, done that. The ladder in the background explains how you got to the come-along to pick up the engine, but it looks like you had to be standing on the top of the ladder to do it. Yes? I hope not, but if so I'll tell my story. So, how did you keep the strap (tree saver?) from slipping? Is there a knot or something we can't see that prevented that? It was a couple years ago so I don't remember for sure. I might have been standing on top of the ladder but holding onto the tree branch for stability. But more likely I also had a foot on the Bronco fender or something. I wrapped the strap around the limb 1 1/2 wraps rather than just draping it over. The bark is pretty rough so it didn't want to slide like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 Bob - Can you use coupling nuts, both as spacers as well as to accept bolts from the bracket?.... I'm not sure what you mean by "coupling nuts." But my plan is to bore holes in some 2 3/8" long pieces of round bar stock and use some 3" long bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 A metal droplight, how quaint!.... It's an old-school vehicle, it deserves an old-school trouble light! And the "rugged service" bulbs hold up pretty well too. Nothing Special....It's called "shade tree" for a reason, been there, done that. The ladder in the background explains how you got to the come-along to pick up the engine, but it looks like you had to be standing on the top of the ladder to do it. Yes? I hope not, but if so I'll tell my story. So, how did you keep the strap (tree saver?) from slipping? Is there a knot or something we can't see that prevented that? It was a couple years ago so I don't remember for sure. I might have been standing on top of the ladder but holding onto the tree branch for stability. But more likely I also had a foot on the Bronco fender or something. I wrapped the strap around the limb 1 1/2 wraps rather than just draping it over. The bark is pretty rough so it didn't want to slide like that. Ok, I won't tell my story. But it looks precarious. However, it did work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Bob - Can you use coupling nuts, both as spacers as well as to accept bolts from the bracket?.... I'm not sure what you mean by "coupling nuts." But my plan is to bore holes in some 2 3/8" long pieces of round bar stock and use some 3" long bolts. Coupling nuts are long nuts that allow two bolts to be joined. How are you going to join the long bolts to the studs? Or? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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