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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Looking good, Shaun. Thought you'd settle on Ranger XLT. :nabble_smiley_wink:

It was an easy choice, my truck has B-Pillar moldings and a headliner, Ranger trim trucks do not. Also, the blue XLT emblems are gonna look just right against the white paint. Blue is one of my favorite colors, so it only makes sense. :nabble_smiley_good:

Today I drove around and got some bits to charge the AC in the Bronco. Then i washed and waxed the rust 🤣

B0AF0959-B6CB-45C9-9204-54F675290BE5.thumb.jpeg.a8ecb24e3f9901e441bf74d73650da58.jpeg

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Today I drove around and got some bits to charge the AC in the Bronco. Then i washed and waxed the rust 🤣

The Bronco looks good! I like those wheels!

Would like to get some new ones for my Bronco. Really, I’d like to have a bullnose Bronco.

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The Bronco looks good! I like those wheels!

Would like to get some new ones for my Bronco. Really, I’d like to have a bullnose Bronco.

The passenger side cleans up well. Also, from this angle you can’t see the oil leaks from the engine, transmission or rear axle! 🙄 I will get 2 of those fixed this year! 😆

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The passenger side cleans up well. Also, from this angle you can’t see the oil leaks from the engine, transmission or rear axle! 🙄 I will get 2 of those fixed this year! 😆

Oil is stubborn. I fix oil leaks and it goes and finds another way out!

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My '90 Lincoln Town Car marks territory A LOT!:nabble_smiley_whistling: My truck not much at all.:nabble_smiley_happy:

A 460 4X4 oil pan gasket is an engine out operation.

I don't have a slab, or hardtop driveway to roll a hoist, and there's no way I'm doing that on a sheet of plywood :nabble_smiley_what: even though I have the new gasket sitting here.

Paying shop rate to R&R an engine for a $20 gasket seems insane to me.

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A 460 4X4 oil pan gasket is an engine out operation.

I don't have a slab, or hardtop driveway to roll a hoist, and there's no way I'm doing that on a sheet of plywood :nabble_smiley_what: even though I have the new gasket sitting here.

Paying shop rate to R&R an engine for a $20 gasket seems insane to me.

I am in the same boat... this gravel driveway is KILLING ME!

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A 460 4X4 oil pan gasket is an engine out operation.

I don't have a slab, or hardtop driveway to roll a hoist, and there's no way I'm doing that on a sheet of plywood :nabble_smiley_what: even though I have the new gasket sitting here.

Paying shop rate to R&R an engine for a $20 gasket seems insane to me.

Who needs a pavement slab to roll a hoist on to pull an engine? Actually in my case I have the pavement, just not the engine hoist. So this is how I pulled my engine a couple years ago. I called it "Getting in touch with my inner redneck!"

DSC_7801.jpg.ddbdeb056f9c3ca2d470c3dc4fc65271.jpg

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http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n53806/DSC_0325.jpg

Bob - It does look like you'll need the angled bracket. (I had no idea the EB's were that tight under the hood!) But what, if anything, does that do to the linkage to the brake pedal? And do you need to relo the pin in the pedal?

Yeah, Early Broncos don't have much room, either under the hood or between the frame rails. It's actually pretty surprising how poorly they seem to use space, because on the outside they are really pretty big!

If you look inside that bracket you'll see a "post" coming down through the middle of it, with a bolt head on the top of the bracket directly above the "post". The post is actually a bellcrank. A rod from the pedal connects to one arm on the bellcrank to turn it, and a rod from another arm goes to the booster. So the bellcrank more-or-less puts a bend in the brake rod. It ends up with the rod(s) moving in slightly different directions than normal, but it works.

As far as moving the pin in the pedal, I'm not planning on it. One advantage of reusing the angled bracket is that the linkage from the pedal will be unchanged from what I had. All of the same parts in the same locations. As long as I have clearance at the inner fender and the hood, the only mechanical issues will be attaching the booster to the bracket and making a link so the bellcrank can push the booster. Then plumbing of course.

There will be the question of whether I get the right amount of pedal travel with this setup. But it can't be much worse than what I had with the vacuum assist. So I'm going to throw it together first and see what I end up with. If the travel is too bad I may end up moving the pin, or changing the bellcrank arm lengths or something. But I'm going in assuming it'll be good enough as-is.

... and on a more current note...

It took a couple of days, but I got a chance to piece things together a bit. I "eased" the booster mounting holes in the angle bracket so the studs from the hydroboost would fit. But in the process of doing that I realized that the pushrod that goes into the boost unit doesn't come out easily. I'm sure I could get it out to modify it, but I don't want to end up with something that would take a lot of fab work if I have to replace the boost unit. I want to just be able to get a boost unit for a '95 GMC Astro and be able to stick it in. So disassembling the unit to remove and modify the pushrod doesn't support the goals.

The pushrod in the hydroboost is quite a bit longer than the one on the old vacuum booster. 2 3/8" in fact. And the hole in it is bigger than the one in the vacuum booster. But I can bush the hole, and if I space the hydroboost away from the angle plate the right amount I should be able to use the stock pushrod. To check it out I made some spacers that were 1" long, which was the most I could move it out using the studs that came in the booster. Below are some pics of how that sits in the Bronco. I think it'll work out well! I'm probably going to have to move a homemade power distribution box I have on top of the driver's side inner fender. But that's the only thing that it looks like will interfere. It looks like the reservoirs are sticking up pretty far, but there's still clearance when the hood is shut!

So the next step is to get some 2 3/8" spacers, some longer bolts to replace the studs and a bushing to adapt the hole in the pushrod to the pin for the bellcrank. Then I should be able to bolt everything together!

Here's a picture showing how the lengths of the old and new pushrods compare:

DSC_0340.jpg.38425854f824351de98b2bcd7506a2ae.jpg

And here are a couple that show the hydroboost in place with the 1" spacers. It'll be moved another 1 3/8" away from the angle bracket the next time it goes in.

DSC_0338.jpg.0bedde36d38993e572a975e520496332.jpg

DSC_0339.jpg.31060c9024c0d8acb8eaf7c6cbea0b3c.jpg

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