Gary Lewis Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 Thanks! Just pulled apart the gauge cluster and found another strange engineering number on the back of the housing. E7HF-10848-B E7HF 10848-B cross-ref's to E7HZ 10848-B. But the latter doesn't show in the catalog. However, E7HZ 10848-A does as a replacement for the back for the clusters with idiot lights. And, assuming that yours has gauges, I'd bet there's an omission on the last row of "r/b E7HZ 10848-B" for the clusters with gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 E7HF 10848-B cross-ref's to E7HZ 10848-B. But the latter doesn't show in the catalog. However, E7HZ 10848-A does as a replacement for the back for the clusters with idiot lights. And, assuming that yours has gauges, I'd bet there's an omission on the last row of "r/b E7HZ 10848-B" for the clusters with gauges. In fact, my version of the MPC now looks like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 In fact, my version of the MPC now looks like this: Yep, cluster has gauges. I wonder what this cluster may have come out of because everything else in the cluster is stamped with either E0TF or E1TF? I would assume that the cluster backing was just replaced under warranty if it wasn't for the fact that the shift indicator is incorrect for the transmission. That makes me think it came from another truck although I guess it's possible that somebody could have replaced just the shift indicator. Strange. Upon further inspection, the backing has a rectangular hole for the speedometer head, which means it can be used all the way up to 97 on the electronic speedometer medium duty trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 Yep, cluster has gauges. I wonder what this cluster may have come out of because everything else in the cluster is stamped with either E0TF or E1TF? I would assume that the cluster backing was just replaced under warranty if it wasn't for the fact that the shift indicator is incorrect for the transmission. That makes me think it came from another truck although I guess it's possible that somebody could have replaced just the shift indicator. Strange. Upon further inspection, the backing has a rectangular hole for the speedometer head, which means it can be used all the way up to 97 on the electronic speedometer medium duty trucks. A leaky master cylinder because of pitted top where the lid gasket contacts. For those of you who remember (Gary) using a ballpeen hammer to make a gasket. I made these inserts to keep inside clean, after removing fluid. Then, using 80 grit on a flat piece of wood, I sanded the contact surface clean of Pitts Carefully remove inserts, and cleaning what residue that may have gotten inside, the end results. I did this on the MS that I replaced thinking it was bad, only problem, the contact surface was pitted and leaking there. The replacement MS is doing the same thing, did this on the old one to make sure it would work before I did the one on the truck, don't have to remove from truck to do this. Comments welcome, tell me what you think....Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 24, 2020 Author Share Posted January 24, 2020 A leaky master cylinder because of pitted top where the lid gasket contacts. For those of you who remember (Gary) using a ballpeen hammer to make a gasket. I made these inserts to keep inside clean, after removing fluid. Then, using 80 grit on a flat piece of wood, I sanded the contact surface clean of Pitts Carefully remove inserts, and cleaning what residue that may have gotten inside, the end results. I did this on the MS that I replaced thinking it was bad, only problem, the contact surface was pitted and leaking there. The replacement MS is doing the same thing, did this on the old one to make sure it would work before I did the one on the truck, don't have to remove from truck to do this. Comments welcome, tell me what you think....Bill Bill - I love it! Those inserts are much better than my paper towels. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 Bill - I love it! Those inserts are much better than my paper towels. I just did my truck, happened to remember,I have a large orbital sander that covers the total top...worked like a charm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samhammett Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 Replaced the distributor cap and rotor. Next I need to replace the plugs and wires when I have a chance. The cap and rotor were definitely due though, the tip of the rotor is actually bent. Don't know if that is from heat or the previous owner? Also, anyone know what this orange vacuum line is for? I found it dangling with a screw plugging it up courtesy of the previous owner. I plugged it back in where I only assume it can go. Any idea why it would be unplugged? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 24, 2020 Author Share Posted January 24, 2020 Replaced the distributor cap and rotor. Next I need to replace the plugs and wires when I have a chance. The cap and rotor were definitely due though, the tip of the rotor is actually bent. Don't know if that is from heat or the previous owner? Also, anyone know what this orange vacuum line is for? I found it dangling with a screw plugging it up courtesy of the previous owner. I plugged it back in where I only assume it can go. Any idea why it would be unplugged? Yes, that rotor is toast. As for the vacuum line, that's the air bypass valve. It sends air from the AIR pump into the exhaust manifold to help the catalytic converter burn any hydrocarbons that didn't get burned in the cylinders. And the vacuum to it tells the valve how much air to put in the exhaust. The diagram below is from our page on Documentation/Emissions/Thermactor Systems. The PO may have plugged it if part of the system isn't operating? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samhammett Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Yes, that rotor is toast. As for the vacuum line, that's the air bypass valve. It sends air from the AIR pump into the exhaust manifold to help the catalytic converter burn any hydrocarbons that didn't get burned in the cylinders. And the vacuum to it tells the valve how much air to put in the exhaust. The diagram below is from our page on Documentation/Emissions/Thermactor Systems. The PO may have plugged it if part of the system isn't operating? I figured out why they plugged it. When connected, every time I push in the clutch to shift, it makes an explosion sound, like backfiring, but as far as I can tell either in the carb or the exhaust. Sometimes multiple pops. I pulled over and plugged it back up for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 25, 2020 Author Share Posted January 25, 2020 I figured out why they plugged it. When connected, every time I push in the clutch to shift, it makes an explosion sound, like backfiring, but as far as I can tell either in the carb or the exhaust. Sometimes multiple pops. I pulled over and plugged it back up for now. Yipes! Yes, I'd plug it too! The pops or explosions should be in the exhaust as that's what that system connects to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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