BeagleRock Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Yippee! I'll get to meet you next year! But, I'm confused. What is warped? The phenolic spacer? Did new gaskets fix it? And, hope you get well soon! Good morning and thank you Gary, it's been a rough week. I believe it is the spacer that has the slight rocking motion but am not 100% certain. The new gaskets didn't help but they were no more than a thick piece of paper, I then thought I'll put the 1/4" thick gasket back on. No change so it's possible that the carb. Itself could have an ear or two bent. I don't know but hopefully I'll feel like working on it this weekend. Too cold today + still not feeling well. Thanks for the get well wishes! My wife had pneumonia a couple of weeks ago and is still doing nebulizer treatments. It's been rough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Those of you that go to the Junkyard on occasion will appreciate this. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 6, 2019 Author Share Posted December 6, 2019 Good morning and thank you Gary, it's been a rough week. I believe it is the spacer that has the slight rocking motion but am not 100% certain. The new gaskets didn't help but they were no more than a thick piece of paper, I then thought I'll put the 1/4" thick gasket back on. No change so it's possible that the carb. Itself could have an ear or two bent. I don't know but hopefully I'll feel like working on it this weekend. Too cold today + still not feeling well. Thanks for the get well wishes! My wife had pneumonia a couple of weeks ago and is still doing nebulizer treatments. It's been rough. Heed what Bill and Jim said about using a FLAT surface to sand the thing flat. It works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeagleRock Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 I'm willing to bet the carb base is bent. Bill says he used to see it all the time, and would fix it with a hammer. But some 180-220 Wet-or-Dry and a surface plate will usually lap it in. Even if it is the spacer. Ok thanks I'll try that as that sounds like a good idea! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeagleRock Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Heed what Bill and Jim said about using a FLAT surface to sand the thing flat. It works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeagleRock Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Those of you that go to the Junkyard on occasion will appreciate this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Jim, I never used a hammer on a carburetor base. Holleys I could simply order a new throttle body. The straighten with a hammer was primarily the accelerator pump cover on Holleys, but airhorns/top covers on Stromberg WWC and Carter BBD 1 1/2" carbs on Chrysler products. Depending on the carburetor, Holley, buy a new throttle body, even if you have to buy it bare and transfer the shafts. Carter/Edelbrock, remove the throttle shafts after normal disassembly and use a good hard, flat surface to sand it flat on. You may want to file the worst mounting ears first. Same for an Autolite, Summit or any other carburetor where the main body is also the throttle body. The wide spaced (called a spread flange) bolt pattern Ford and Holley use is very prone to warping the aluminum castings if a soft gasket or gasket stack is used. The Ford thick heat insulating gaskets and the phenolic spacers if they are not sufficiently rigid (non-compressible) at the hold down areas will warp the throttle body/base plate/main body if over tightened. I have a nice chunk of granite left over from a backsplash a riding mower customer brought me, it was excess from a kitchen remodel. You can always ask for a sink cutout at the fabricators. They pay a lot of money for overweight dumpsters. I know that for fact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Those of you that go to the Junkyard on occasion will appreciate this. e Those of you that go to the Junkyard on occasion will appreciate this. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n45113/pickNpull.jpg completely true. The LKQ here used to let you leave with plastic parts, small switches and seals etc no charge, they only were interested in charging for parts they could scrap. I went back for a mirror switch ($12 brand new). Got to the door and the guy charged me $7 + the $3 entry fee. I was like I don't even know if this switch works dude. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Interesting! Do you know if they make a fusible link that plugs into an ATO or Maxi fuse slot? If so that would make the integration of the power distribution center even easier. Just replace a fuse with a fusible link in the PDC and cut out the fusible link in the wiring harness. I'm Googling for them but haven't found them. I think they purposely do not, but I am sure there are PDC's that have these slots in them. Heck the PDC in my malibu has these lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Interesting! Do you know if they make a fusible link that plugs into an ATO or Maxi fuse slot? If so that would make the integration of the power distribution center even easier. Just replace a fuse with a fusible link in the PDC and cut out the fusible link in the wiring harness. I'm Googling for them but haven't found them. Littelfuse makes Slow Blow Mega Fuses that are meant to replace a fusible link. You can get them on Amazon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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