Gary Lewis Posted November 18, 2019 Author Share Posted November 18, 2019 I had to make good use of the nice weather today so I ventured out for a junkyard crawl, and ended up grabbing a sliding rear window out of a 1996 F150 4x4. It's about the best one I've found so far, and it's the OEM Ford window as well, so that's a bonus (It fits well). With a little cleaning up it should look and work OK for what I'm doing (and for the $35 bucks it cost me). http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n43809/IMG_9212.jpg http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n43809/IMG_9211.jpg http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n43809/IMG_9217.jpg http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n43809/IMG_9219.jpg From the little bit I've read, the 1995-1996 sliding rear window had a much better latch than the previous versions? This one is still intact after 23 years, so I guess that says something. Anyway, I have all winter to get it cleaned up. That bumper though... piece of art work there. Holier than thou? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Holier than thou? My moulding clips from eBay came yesterday, so this morning I installed the missing piece of trim that Gary kindly sent. Thanks Gary! It's nicer than all the rest. 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 My moulding clips from eBay came yesterday, so this morning I installed the missing piece of trim that Gary kindly sent. Thanks Gary! It's nicer than all the rest. 😁 Welcome, Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samhammett Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 It was yesterday really, but I swapped out the clutch master, bled the system and adjusted the linkage to the pedal. It shifts wonderfully now, no more forcing it into 1st gear at stop lights As far as the clutch pedal linkage, the stud (that holds the plastic bushing that slips into the end of the rod from the master) is in need of attention or replacement. Currently I have no bushing on it, I just have the rod turned out enough to contact it, but the metal of that stud is almost 1/2 gone. I figured if I put the plastic bushing on it would just crack under the pressure. Any tips on where to source that linkage? Or to repair it instead? I thought about taking it out and building it back up with a welder? Also, on a completely different note, how do I post on this thread without “replying” to someone? I have looked all over but can’t figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 It was yesterday really, but I swapped out the clutch master, bled the system and adjusted the linkage to the pedal. It shifts wonderfully now, no more forcing it into 1st gear at stop lights As far as the clutch pedal linkage, the stud (that holds the plastic bushing that slips into the end of the rod from the master) is in need of attention or replacement. Currently I have no bushing on it, I just have the rod turned out enough to contact it, but the metal of that stud is almost 1/2 gone. I figured if I put the plastic bushing on it would just crack under the pressure. Any tips on where to source that linkage? Or to repair it instead? I thought about taking it out and building it back up with a welder? Also, on a completely different note, how do I post on this thread without “replying” to someone? I have looked all over but can’t figure it out. Good call on not destroying the new bushing 👍 You put the bushing in the pushrod and then snap it over that pin. BTW, you can get that same bushing from Dormant in an assortment of wiper linkage bushings in most autoparts stores for around $4. Ford sells the arm (with the stud) that splines onto the clutch crossover shaft. I don't have the number handy, but maybe Gary does. You have to remove the nut and pry the old one off, because the shaft broaches the splines into the lever arm. While under there, be sure to check the plastic bushings where the crossover passes through both sides of the pedal support casting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 It was yesterday really, but I swapped out the clutch master, bled the system and adjusted the linkage to the pedal. It shifts wonderfully now, no more forcing it into 1st gear at stop lights As far as the clutch pedal linkage, the stud (that holds the plastic bushing that slips into the end of the rod from the master) is in need of attention or replacement. Currently I have no bushing on it, I just have the rod turned out enough to contact it, but the metal of that stud is almost 1/2 gone. I figured if I put the plastic bushing on it would just crack under the pressure. Any tips on where to source that linkage? Or to repair it instead? I thought about taking it out and building it back up with a welder? Also, on a completely different note, how do I post on this thread without “replying” to someone? I have looked all over but can’t figure it out. Congrat's on getting the master on and bled enough to work well. Sometimes that can be an issue that doesn't resolve itself until you've driven the truck for a while and bounced the air bubbles out of the system. On posting, you do have to reply to someone. If the post to which you are replying is the most recent one it just adds your post. But if it is an earlier post yours will show as replying to the earlier post. Regarding the stud, are you talking about part 7A554 in the illustration below? This is found on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Clutches and Linkage and then the Clutch Linkage tab, the Hydraulic tab, and the Illustrations tab. If so, I can think of two approaches for fixing it. First, get a new one. To do that you need the actual part number, which is on the Part Numbers tab. The other is to replace the pin. I say that because it wouldn't be easy to build it up with a welder when attached to the arm. But you should be able to grind the weld off and press the pin out, and then either build it up with a welder and turn it back round in a lathe, or use a G8 bolt the same size and press it in and tack weld it. I did the latter on a mechanical linkage and it worked well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 21, 2019 Share Posted November 21, 2019 Congrat's on getting the master on and bled enough to work well. Sometimes that can be an issue that doesn't resolve itself until you've driven the truck for a while and bounced the air bubbles out of the system. On posting, you do have to reply to someone. If the post to which you are replying is the most recent one it just adds your post. But if it is an earlier post yours will show as replying to the earlier post. Regarding the stud, are you talking about part 7A554 in the illustration below? This is found on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Clutches and Linkage and then the Clutch Linkage tab, the Hydraulic tab, and the Illustrations tab. If so, I can think of two approaches for fixing it. First, get a new one. To do that you need the actual part number, which is on the Part Numbers tab. The other is to replace the pin. I say that because it wouldn't be easy to build it up with a welder when attached to the arm. But you should be able to grind the weld off and press the pin out, and then either build it up with a welder and turn it back round in a lathe, or use a G8 bolt the same size and press it in and tack weld it. I did the latter on a mechanical linkage and it worked well. I have an oilite bronze bushing a washer and hairpin holding mine on now. It seems to be holding up better than plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2019 Author Share Posted November 21, 2019 I have an oilite bronze bushing a washer and hairpin holding mine on now. It seems to be holding up better than plastic. Yes, that's the best solution. And one that will probably happen on Big Blue as he goes back together. I have a bag of bushings left over from the mechanical linkage I restored for Dad's truck when the ZF5 went in, so will use one of those if it is the right size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samhammett Posted November 22, 2019 Share Posted November 22, 2019 Congrat's on getting the master on and bled enough to work well. Sometimes that can be an issue that doesn't resolve itself until you've driven the truck for a while and bounced the air bubbles out of the system. On posting, you do have to reply to someone. If the post to which you are replying is the most recent one it just adds your post. But if it is an earlier post yours will show as replying to the earlier post. Regarding the stud, are you talking about part 7A554 in the illustration below? This is found on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Clutches and Linkage and then the Clutch Linkage tab, the Hydraulic tab, and the Illustrations tab. If so, I can think of two approaches for fixing it. First, get a new one. To do that you need the actual part number, which is on the Part Numbers tab. The other is to replace the pin. I say that because it wouldn't be easy to build it up with a welder when attached to the arm. But you should be able to grind the weld off and press the pin out, and then either build it up with a welder and turn it back round in a lathe, or use a G8 bolt the same size and press it in and tack weld it. I did the latter on a mechanical linkage and it worked well. It does look similar to that 7a554 part in the diagram, although I believe mine is oriented with the stud facing in the other direction. I hadn’t thought of replacing the stud with a bolt of the same size, that is a great idea, thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 22, 2019 Author Share Posted November 22, 2019 It does look similar to that 7a554 part in the diagram, although I believe mine is oriented with the stud facing in the other direction. I hadn’t thought of replacing the stud with a bolt of the same size, that is a great idea, thank you! There's a lot of force on those parts, so you will want it in there very tightly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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