WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[ArdWrknTrk]

So I warmed the truck up a bit today to try and do a leak down test. I am not sure the results are 100% correct, but I think I'm going to go ahead and pull the motor to do the re-seal and I'll do it again cold with the motor out. Rebuild or re-seal, it has to come out anyway. I didn't think about needing to hold the cylinder at TDC and I was doing it mostly by feel and watching the gauge for steady and the maximum reading on each cylinder. I was also having a hard time hearing any leakage with the compressor running. With limited time I was also only able to fight and get to 5 cylinders. Results are....

3 - 24%

4 - 27%

5 - 32%

6 - 35%

7 - 32.5%

I'll update when I have the motor out and do them all again....We shall see.

On another note. I think I might have an idea of what causes my random power loss issues when it's hot outside. When it's hot, the computer gets really hot to the point of not being able to keep my hand on it. I'm wondering if that is leading to the random power issues. When it isn't hot, truck runs fine. When it gets that hot, I have issues in the upper RPM range. Need to do a little more observation.....but with the timing cover leak that's not going to happen for a bit.

Sunday I had a bit of time from wiring the barn, grading the trail to the paddock and building a picnic table & benches, so I decided to get after my passenger door.

I can't see it in my avatar, but a crack at the vent window pivot (where the tiny 'bridge' is supposed to be) has been letting water in for years.

The bottom is rusted out and the lower rear mirror mount finally gave up.

So I got a 1/4-20 stainless button head screw, fender washer, rubber washer and nyloc nut.

Done!

Then I got all on it and pop riveted a piece of sheet metal between the door skin and liner.

I don't care how it looks, the door is shot, I just care that it stops flopping around and that I can put some sealer on it.

.... hmmmm, I needed to get some Eternabond tape and primer for the barn roof anyway.

[Gary Lewis]

Sunday I had a bit of time from wiring the barn, grading the trail to the paddock and building a picnic table & benches, so I decided to get after my passenger door.

I can't see it in my avatar, but a crack at the vent window pivot (where the tiny 'bridge' is supposed to be) has been letting water in for years.

The bottom is rusted out and the lower rear mirror mount finally gave up.

So I got a 1/4-20 stainless button head screw, fender washer, rubber washer and nyloc nut.

Done!

Then I got all on it and pop riveted a piece of sheet metal between the door skin and liner.

I don't care how it looks, the door is shot, I just care that it stops flopping around and that I can put some sealer on it.

.... hmmmm, I needed to get some Eternabond tape and primer for the barn roof anyway.

Shaun - I've used Dynamat and Peal & Seal, and both seemed to work about the same. But P&S has more odor to it, for sure. Not sure what I'm going to use, but will consider the Fat Mat. Thanks!

fords4life - Those aren't very good leak-down test results. But they are less bad than mine, which ranged from 17% to 50%.

And you shouldn't need to hold the crank at TDC. I never have until I got to Big Blue, and then I discovered that the damper is off a few degrees. So when I accounted for that and got it on TDC it no longer rotated when I put the pressure on it.

As for the ECU, it should not be getting hot, much less that hot. You need to figure out what is causing it to heat. If you have a relay that's shorted a wire to a relay, that might do it.

Jim - I'm not sure that qualifies for work. He would have taken the sawzall to it and THEN put the patch on. I think your approach is creative and functional.

But what caused the crack? You don't have the bridge?

[85lebaront2]

Don't you love quick & dirty solutions that run into significant problems later.

Factory sound deadening below the seat? I don't think I've seen that. Any pics?

Gary, Darth had a insulating pad under the seats, but only on the right side and I'm sure that was more for heat as it was placed over the exhaust area. The floor still got quite hot in the summer to the point the front seat passenger would almost get a hot foot from it.

When I redid the interior after having the rusted areas in the front footwells fiberglassed, I used some thermal barrier a co-worker (fellow lab rat) gave me, it was left over from his house he was building for his retirement home in Charlotte County VA.

This made a world of difference in both heat and noise levels. Newer doors and the Areonose door panels with their insulating/sound deadening pads helped even more.

Ford seems to have used very little noise deadening in the Bullnoses probably two fold, CAF standards, and at the time of introduction, they were still utility/work vehicles, Just look at the difference in Blue Jeans and Dad's or Big Blue.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, Darth had a insulating pad under the seats, but only on the right side and I'm sure that was more for heat as it was placed over the exhaust area. The floor still got quite hot in the summer to the point the front seat passenger would almost get a hot foot from it.

When I redid the interior after having the rusted areas in the front footwells fiberglassed, I used some thermal barrier a co-worker (fellow lab rat) gave me, it was left over from his house he was building for his retirement home in Charlotte County VA.

This made a world of difference in both heat and noise levels. Newer doors and the Areonose door panels with their insulating/sound deadening pads helped even more.

Ford seems to have used very little noise deadening in the Bullnoses probably two fold, CAF standards, and at the time of introduction, they were still utility/work vehicles, Just look at the difference in Blue Jeans and Dad's or Big Blue.

Bill - Big Blue has the same insulation, as shown below. But, not all Bullnose trucks got that. And more of it can make a big difference. So, as I hope to spend many hours in BB's cab I'll be adding more.

[1986F150Six]

Bill - Big Blue has the same insulation, as shown below. But, not all Bullnose trucks got that. And more of it can make a big difference. So, as I hope to spend many hours in BB's cab I'll be adding more.

The grass looks good, Gary!

[Gary Lewis]

The grass looks good, Gary!

LOL! You should see it now! It has been wet and I've been slacking, so I've been cutting less often and raising the deck height so I don't have hay. Mowed on Friday and moved the deck to 4". The stuff is lush.

[Dorsai]

I think I mentioned replacing the hood to cowl seal, because it has to come off anyhow.

Matthew said he was following along, and his is especially atrocious.

So I figured I'd point it out.

Now, why are you maligning my cowl seal? I think it looks pretty good:

Practically factory fresh, as though it was installed in the last hour, even.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Now, why are you maligning my cowl seal? I think it looks pretty good:

Practically factory fresh, as though it was installed in the last hour, even.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think I mentioned replacing the hood to cowl seal, because it has to come off anyhow.

Matthew said he was following along, and his is especially atrocious.

So I figured I'd point it out.

Now, why are you maligning my cowl seal? I think it looks pretty good:

Practically factory fresh, as though it was installed in the last hour, even.

Well done, Matthew!

Does my plaque go on the flat spot between the cylinder head and the wiper motor?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Shaun - I've used Dynamat and Peal & Seal, and both seemed to work about the same. But P&S has more odor to it, for sure. Not sure what I'm going to use, but will consider the Fat Mat. Thanks!

fords4life - Those aren't very good leak-down test results. But they are less bad than mine, which ranged from 17% to 50%.

And you shouldn't need to hold the crank at TDC. I never have until I got to Big Blue, and then I discovered that the damper is off a few degrees. So when I accounted for that and got it on TDC it no longer rotated when I put the pressure on it.

As for the ECU, it should not be getting hot, much less that hot. You need to figure out what is causing it to heat. If you have a relay that's shorted a wire to a relay, that might do it.

Jim - I'm not sure that qualifies for work. He would have taken the sawzall to it and THEN put the patch on. I think your approach is creative and functional.

But what caused the crack? You don't have the bridge?

I'm sorry I didn't answer this question sooner.

Yes, that little bridge has long given up the ghost.

I tried welding the crack shut, but as you see it didn't last forever.