ArdWrknTrk Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Bill - So since the frames didn’t really change an E4OD crossmember from up to the mid-90’s will work. Right? I not remember Darth’s donor but I’ll need to find one in a salvage. Jim - That’s nasty oil! But at that time of the morn I’d have it all over me. 🙁 Hope you get everything done today - your day sounds even more busy than mine. 6,300 on that oil. Better in the oil than sludge in my engine. I'm up in Trumbull now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Bill - So since the frames didn’t really change an E4OD crossmember from up to the mid-90’s will work. Right? I not remember Darth’s donor but I’ll need to find one in a salvage. Jim - That’s nasty oil! But at that time of the morn I’d have it all over me. 🙁 Hope you get everything done today - your day sounds even more busy than mine. Gary, the donor was a 1990 F250. I would look for a Bronco or F150 with a 351 or even the 300 could have the E4OD (300s low end torque was too much for the AOD and it's electronic clones). Some 302 Broncos had E4ODs in them. I have a friend in one of the FB Ford truck groups who said remind him Monday and he will get pictures and measurements off his truck. FWIW, the C6 flex plate is what fits an E4OD converter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 8, 2017 Author Share Posted October 8, 2017 Gary, the donor was a 1990 F250. I would look for a Bronco or F150 with a 351 or even the 300 could have the E4OD (300s low end torque was too much for the AOD and it's electronic clones). Some 302 Broncos had E4ODs in them. I have a friend in one of the FB Ford truck groups who said remind him Monday and he will get pictures and measurements off his truck. FWIW, the C6 flex plate is what fits an E4OD converter. Good to know. Thanks. I have several other things going right now, but hope to start the search in a few weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 Good to know. Thanks. I have several other things going right now, but hope to start the search in a few weeks. Still not my truck, unless you count backing it out of the shop, but we did work on Scott's '78 a bit today. Pulled the clutch linkage off, which is pretty badly worn, and got the boot out of the way in order to see into the bell housing. When turning the engine over slowly we can see that some of the "fingers" of the pressure plate are not sticking out as they should be. IOW, it looks like the pressure plate is bad. But, that was the easy part. With the door sills, seat and belts/harnesses, accelerator pedal, and clutch linkage removed we got the floor mat out. That gave enough access to the floor that we got the boots for the shift levers off and then the transmission cover off. Now we had enough clearance to move the tranny back w/o having to remove the NP435's shift lever. Then we moved underneath, where we found the transmission crossmember to be a bear. Unlike the Bullnose crossmembers, this one bolts to the frame just below the cab, to the frame side and to the radious arm brackets. We ended up taking the radius arm brackets off in order to move the crossmember back far enough to let the tranny and t-case come back enough to R&R the clutch and pressure plate. Tomorrow we will support the tranny/t-case combo and roll them back enough to get to the clutch, et al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Still not my truck, unless you count backing it out of the shop, but we did work on Scott's '78 a bit today. Pulled the clutch linkage off, which is pretty badly worn, and got the boot out of the way in order to see into the bell housing. When turning the engine over slowly we can see that some of the "fingers" of the pressure plate are not sticking out as they should be. IOW, it looks like the pressure plate is bad. But, that was the easy part. With the door sills, seat and belts/harnesses, accelerator pedal, and clutch linkage removed we got the floor mat out. That gave enough access to the floor that we got the boots for the shift levers off and then the transmission cover off. Now we had enough clearance to move the tranny back w/o having to remove the NP435's shift lever. Then we moved underneath, where we found the transmission crossmember to be a bear. Unlike the Bullnose crossmembers, this one bolts to the frame just below the cab, to the frame side and to the radious arm brackets. We ended up taking the radius arm brackets off in order to move the crossmember back far enough to let the tranny and t-case come back enough to R&R the clutch and pressure plate. Tomorrow we will support the tranny/t-case combo and roll them back enough to get to the clutch, et al. Been there, done that, I had a 1977 I put a 390 in (didn't want a damn 400) and C6. I never took the radius arm brackets completely off, just the attachment to the crossmember, you smack it with a hammer and it pops out, then same to get it back in. This was from my transmission shop buddy in Newport News. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 Been there, done that, I had a 1977 I put a 390 in (didn't want a damn 400) and C6. I never took the radius arm brackets completely off, just the attachment to the crossmember, you smack it with a hammer and it pops out, then same to get it back in. This was from my transmission shop buddy in Newport News. How big of a hammer do you have to use? We used a dead-blow hammer and it wouldn't come out. But we think we are in a position now where we have 10" of room to roll the tranny/t-case combo back, so that should be plenty to R&R the clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 How big of a hammer do you have to use? We used a dead-blow hammer and it wouldn't come out. But we think we are in a position now where we have 10" of room to roll the tranny/t-case combo back, so that should be plenty to R&R the clutch. I used a 4lb ball peen to knock it loose, same to reinstall it. You have to look at the way the frame slants, it has to go forward if I remember (it's been 18 years since I last saw that truck when my son and I changed the heads on the 390 in Texas). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 Good to know. Thanks. I have several other things going right now, but hope to start the search in a few weeks. I emailed you some pictures and measurements this morning, the transfer case shifter attaches to the side of the E4OD. You can probably find some PNs in the parts CD as the E4OD came out in 88 or 89. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 9, 2017 Author Share Posted October 9, 2017 I emailed you some pictures and measurements this morning, the transfer case shifter attaches to the side of the E4OD. You can probably find some PNs in the parts CD as the E4OD came out in 88 or 89. I don’t think we will need to resort to a 🔨 as we have things lined up pretty well at this point. My job today is to get the tranny jack and safety stand set up so we can roll the tranny/t-case combo back this evening when he gets here after work. Gonna be a late night. Oh, and I have to find a replacement u-bolt for one of the u-joints as one of them looks to have been cross-threaded. And, since both u-joints on the rear shaft have imprints of the bearings on the cross, those will be changed out in the project. As for the E4OD pics, I have looked at them. But, could you post them to the new E4OD For Dad’s Truck thread? That way we can keep the details in one place, and others can use it later. Thanks. 👌 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 10, 2017 Author Share Posted October 10, 2017 I don’t think we will need to resort to a 🔨 as we have things lined up pretty well at this point. My job today is to get the tranny jack and safety stand set up so we can roll the tranny/t-case combo back this evening when he gets here after work. Gonna be a late night. Oh, and I have to find a replacement u-bolt for one of the u-joints as one of them looks to have been cross-threaded. And, since both u-joints on the rear shaft have imprints of the bearings on the cross, those will be changed out in the project. As for the E4OD pics, I have looked at them. But, could you post them to the new E4OD For Dad’s Truck thread? That way we can keep the details in one place, and others can use it later. Thanks. 👌 We got Scott's truck apart this evening and found that it really wasn't the pressure plate that was bad. When 1/3 of the friction material is missing on the back side the pressure plate doesn't sit evenly and the fingers won't be even. So, he's to pick up a clutch kit tomorrow and we will install it tomorrow night. But, he's also to find a pilot bearing remover so we can replace that as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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