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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Today (well, last night...) I ordered new seat vinyl from SMS Auto Fabrics, as well as new vinyl flooring from Stock Interiors. Having previously done the interior door panels as well as replaced the dash pad, the interior should be just about back to 1980 spec by the end of June.

Cool! Can't wait to see the pics! Are you going to do the stitching? Can you show us how it's done?

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Cool! Can't wait to see the pics! Are you going to do the stitching? Can you show us how it's done?

> Are you going to do the stitching?

You're a funny man!

No, I am definitely not doing the stitching...I'm taking it to an upholstery shop. A man has got to know his limitations.

There will be pictures, however.

 

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> Are you going to do the stitching?

You're a funny man!

No, I am definitely not doing the stitching...I'm taking it to an upholstery shop. A man has got to know his limitations.

There will be pictures, however.

:nabble_smiley_happy: Yes, Frank was right about men and limitations. Which is why I'm farming out a lot of what I do as well.

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How does it work? What did you have to do to make it work?

Well after siting for over 7 Years we fired the beast up with some starting fluid and fresh fuel, however we watched as it ran rough, and fuel gurgled in to the Carb from the 2 overflow tubes at the top of the carb opening. I decided the carburetor would need further evaluation so off it cam an back to the Barn-O-Speed for inspection. After I battled with the 6 fillister head screws that hold the top on, I found a surprisingly clean bowl with the float looking in tact. as I lifted the float I saw the problem. the Needle had been stuck in the open position. Instead of just lifting more on the float and risk bending the tab that connect the float to the needle. I decided to take it apart slightly. doing so I popped a few Main jets out and confirmed they were clean. I also pulled, what looked to be, the Idle or Pilot Jet and that was pretty clogged. After those were, out I had purchased 2 cans of Gumout Carb and Choke cleaner, and lightly brush the whole carb down and further bow it off with compressed air to com out with a cleaned, and ready carb. To reattach the Cover I replaced the fillister screws with Stainless steel socket-head cap screws. Those screws will be the very first dress-up time this truck has had in 30+ years! I went back to the wood and reattached the Carb, She fired up, and i noticed the it wouldn't revup. The i realized that i had left out the one connection to the accelerator pedal :-) this was very encouraging, since the truck started and idled without any manipulation from the pedal.

This week i drive it home!

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Shaun - By '95 Ford had added ground wires to everything. I've found several ground connections on the front clip I just got, like on the cab mounts. So the ground in the clearance light connection doesn't surprise me.

Anyway, you are making good progress, and the truck will have a better wiring system when you are done. :nabble_anim_claps:

What really got me is the reversal of the terminals. Completely unnecessary in my opinion, but Ford felt differently I guess.

People mention the differences between stuff like doors and dash mounting when using a Bricknose cab, but those things are only the tip of the iceberg. I love to challenge myself and this Bricknose to Bullnose swap is just the kind of challenge I like. But it takes a special kind of person to be willing to do this kind of work and it is definitely not for everybody.

I don't know about yours, but the reversal of the terminals works fine for me, also I am able to use a group 65 battery in all my Fords. The Flex and Taurus came with them.

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Well after siting for over 7 Years we fired the beast up with some starting fluid and fresh fuel, however we watched as it ran rough, and fuel gurgled in to the Carb from the 2 overflow tubes at the top of the carb opening. I decided the carburetor would need further evaluation so off it cam an back to the Barn-O-Speed for inspection. After I battled with the 6 fillister head screws that hold the top on, I found a surprisingly clean bowl with the float looking in tact. as I lifted the float I saw the problem. the Needle had been stuck in the open position. Instead of just lifting more on the float and risk bending the tab that connect the float to the needle. I decided to take it apart slightly. doing so I popped a few Main jets out and confirmed they were clean. I also pulled, what looked to be, the Idle or Pilot Jet and that was pretty clogged. After those were, out I had purchased 2 cans of Gumout Carb and Choke cleaner, and lightly brush the whole carb down and further bow it off with compressed air to com out with a cleaned, and ready carb. To reattach the Cover I replaced the fillister screws with Stainless steel socket-head cap screws. Those screws will be the very first dress-up time this truck has had in 30+ years! I went back to the wood and reattached the Carb, She fired up, and i noticed the it wouldn't revup. The i realized that i had left out the one connection to the accelerator pedal :-) this was very encouraging, since the truck started and idled without any manipulation from the pedal.

This week i drive it home!

Congrat's! It lives!!!! :nabble_anim_claps:

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Well after siting for over 7 Years we fired the beast up with some starting fluid and fresh fuel, however we watched as it ran rough, and fuel gurgled in to the Carb from the 2 overflow tubes at the top of the carb opening. I decided the carburetor would need further evaluation so off it cam an back to the Barn-O-Speed for inspection. After I battled with the 6 fillister head screws that hold the top on, I found a surprisingly clean bowl with the float looking in tact. as I lifted the float I saw the problem. the Needle had been stuck in the open position. Instead of just lifting more on the float and risk bending the tab that connect the float to the needle. I decided to take it apart slightly. doing so I popped a few Main jets out and confirmed they were clean. I also pulled, what looked to be, the Idle or Pilot Jet and that was pretty clogged. After those were, out I had purchased 2 cans of Gumout Carb and Choke cleaner, and lightly brush the whole carb down and further bow it off with compressed air to com out with a cleaned, and ready carb. To reattach the Cover I replaced the fillister screws with Stainless steel socket-head cap screws. Those screws will be the very first dress-up time this truck has had in 30+ years! I went back to the wood and reattached the Carb, She fired up, and i noticed the it wouldn't revup. The i realized that i had left out the one connection to the accelerator pedal :-) this was very encouraging, since the truck started and idled without any manipulation from the pedal.

This week i drive it home!

Well almost.... got everything ready, got,her all warmed up dropped it into gear and spun the tires, obviously needed to shift it into 4WD, lock the hubs and put it in first a small motion forward.... then nothing but what sounded like spinning tires again. I could only be so lucky, it seems the friction plates has decided to give up. I'll come up with a plan B soon enough, but in the meantime I'll pick up a Clutch pack and get to learning...

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Well almost.... got everything ready, got,her all warmed up dropped it into gear and spun the tires, obviously needed to shift it into 4WD, lock the hubs and put it in first a small motion forward.... then nothing but what sounded like spinning tires again. I could only be so lucky, it seems the friction plates has decided to give up. I'll come up with a plan B soon enough, but in the meantime I'll pick up a Clutch pack and get to learning...
Replacing a clutch on a 4wd is tedious. But you should be able to do it w/o truly pulling the transmission or transfer case. A friend of mine and I did it this way on his truck:

  1. Pull the seat and floor covering
  2. Remove the bolts holding the transmission cover to the floor. You may not have to pull the cover off the shift levers, so try it w/o taking the cover completely off and see if things will shift far enough to the rear in Step 8 w/o pulling the shift levers. If not, remove them
  3. Pull the front and rear drive shafts
  4. Disconnect the clutch linkage
  5. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transfer case
  6. Unbolt the transmission from the cross member
  7. Support the front of the engine with a jack or jack stand under the harmonic balancer. (I think the engine will be nose-heavy, but watch and see.)
  8. Unbolt the transmission from the engine and slide the tranny & t-case back to access the clutch. You may want to get 4 long bolts to replace 4 of the transmission/engine bolts. Use them as guides to slide the tranny back on, ensuring it doesn't go too far and that everything lines up when it is time to go back together.

Hope that helps. As said, it can be tedious.

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