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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Aiken county SC 58 deg cloudy, High around 70.....

Got the caps finished, and installed (Dorman - Help Wheel Cap Screws - 1/4-20 X 3/4 In.) Advance $2.08 per 3 pc set, still gonna beadblast wheels.

FWIW, Had to replace cracked rotor on driver side, whoever did the brakes, put new everything, rotors, pads,etc, also put the shims under the pads that your use when the rotors are turned/resurfaced, not with new rotors.

I like them. That center cap looks very clean and tastefully done.

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Those center caps look real nice! Good job!

Edit: 24° with about one to two inches of snow added!

Reason for painting the original red circle, one was missing and the one on the right is the insert I made, also the plastic paint is what I used to freshen them, had the brown hammertone already soooo.

Paintshot.thumb.jpg.45a2d8faca501845fa1487663e2a0307.jpg

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Reason for painting the original red circle, one was missing and the one on the right is the insert I made, also the plastic paint is what I used to freshen them, had the brown hammertone already soooo.

Drove Big Blue to O'Reilly's again today, just as I did two days ago, and again he didn't want to crank. On Saturday I used my ever-present red jumper wire to pull the starter relay in. But today I wondered if I could find the reason for the problem.

And, I think I have. I held the key in the Start position and tilted the steering wheel. Sure enough, it cranked and started.

So, do you reckon the "Actuator (steering column lock lever)" is bad/broken? Do they work sometimes and don't work other times, or just don't work at all?

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Do they work sometimes and don't work other times...?
Yes, that pot metal can crack/bend/wear, resulting in intermittent/unpredictable behavior.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/72346/thumbnail/columntilt-exploded.jpg

What's the best lube or maintenance practice on those?

Also I believe the contacts under the horn are "squeaking", is it ok to use a dielectric grease or some other on there? Lightly coated.

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Do they work sometimes and don't work other times...?
Yes, that pot metal can crack/bend/wear, resulting in intermittent/unpredictable behavior.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/72346/thumbnail/columntilt-exploded.jpg

What's the best lube or maintenance practice on those?

Also I believe the contacts under the horn are "squeaking", is it ok to use a dielectric grease or some other on there? Lightly coated.

Well, was technically yesterday, but I replaced the starter motor and fabricated a new power cable from the solenoid. Made a new battery hold-down too. Was about -10F in the barn when I got started so there was more than one trip to warm my hands over the heat gun before I finished!

Man it's hard on the fingers this time of year, but starts like new now!

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Well, was technically yesterday, but I replaced the starter motor and fabricated a new power cable from the solenoid. Made a new battery hold-down too. Was about -10F in the barn when I got started so there was more than one trip to warm my hands over the heat gun before I finished!

Man it's hard on the fingers this time of year, but starts like new now!

Lima Delta - That sounds COLD! It is only in the 20's here and I don't like working outside. Brrrrr! But it sounds like it was a success. :nabble_smiley_good:

Grumpin - From what I've read, the best practice is not to hoist yourself into the truck with the steering wheel. Which is a problem with a tall truck, like Big Blue, as it is so tempting to do. :nabble_smiley_cry:

Steve - If it can be intermittent then that must be the problem. I'd assumed that it was all or nothing. Good to know, thanks. And the fact that it cranked when I tilted the wheel pretty well confirms it.

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What's the best lube...on those?
I'd probably use PTFE grease, as linked in this caption:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/831124/thumbnail/speedocabletop.jpg

What's the best...maintenance practice on those?
There's not any - it's so difficult to access those parts that there's nothing you can do but repair it when it becomes a problem.
is it ok to use a dielectric grease or some other on there?
Never use dielectric on electric contacts or terminals. Use electrical grease (not conductive) as this shows:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/825375/thumbnail/alternatormountboss.jpg

But those contacts are designed to work without any lube. If they're making noise, I assume it's because they're contaminated by dirt - probably adhered by grease. They're relatively easy to access for cleaning/replacement (used only) by simply pulling the wheel off.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/162723/thumbnail/steeringwheel-2.jpg

...hoist yourself into the truck with the steering wheel. Which is a problem with a tall truck, like Big Blue, as it is so tempting to do.
That stresses the column tilt pins & the steering shaft bearing; but until those fail or get VERY sloppy, it doesn't affect the ignition actuators. But it's very easy to add grab handles to these trucks as shown in this & the NEXT several:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/996215/thumbnail/42grab02.jpg

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What's the best lube...on those?
I'd probably use PTFE grease, as linked in this caption:

But those contacts are designed to work without any lube. If they're making noise, I assume it's because they're contaminated by dirt - probably adhered by grease. They're relatively easy to access for cleaning/replacement (used only) by simply pulling the wheel off.

Cleaning them makes sense. :nabble_smiley_blush:

I've used Dow Corning DC-4 grease on contacts and never had problems. But I see the point.

DC-4 is really good for oil filter gaskets. Used it on O-Rings also.

 

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