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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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Looks like you have the project well mapped out. And the parts should be there late next week or the week after. I have the fasteners masked and ready, so just have to mask the Chizzler valve cover and then I can PC that lot. Then sand and clear-coat it, and PC the konvertible parts.

By the way, do you want the konvertible parts clear-coated? If I'm doing the valve cover I could.

I don't know that I would want to, those are the convertible top latch areas, and with the top down are right in the sun. That was why I sent the satin finish powder, so they won't be shiny. If it won't make them too reflective it would be ok, but it's going to get worn off where the guide pin and hook fit.

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I don't know that I would want to, those are the convertible top latch areas, and with the top down are right in the sun. That was why I sent the satin finish powder, so they won't be shiny. If it won't make them too reflective it would be ok, but it's going to get worn off where the guide pin and hook fit.

Ok, let's not then. :nabble_smiley_good:

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Ok, let's not then. :nabble_smiley_good:

Bill - The "satin" black is more like semi-gloss. :nabble_smiley_cry: Here are some pics to try to show it, but it is hard to tell. I've left it masked in case you want me to shoot it again with something flatter. But, I've not gotten good coverage with second coats, so I'm not sure that'll work very well.

Anyway, I'll hold off unmasking or sanding until you tell me what you want to do.

Here it is in sunshine:

DSCN3324.jpg.bcdbedc6147ea536bbd57c06285be2b4.jpg

And here 'tis in the shop with flash:

DSCN3326.jpg.ea78b77f25ef3e711b30c48a23351367.jpg

And here it is w/o flash:

DSCN3327.jpg.5228826ce634eadcc13fe4553e632982.jpg

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Bill - The "satin" black is more like semi-gloss. :nabble_smiley_cry: Here are some pics to try to show it, but it is hard to tell. I've left it masked in case you want me to shoot it again with something flatter. But, I've not gotten good coverage with second coats, so I'm not sure that'll work very well.

Anyway, I'll hold off unmasking or sanding until you tell me what you want to do.

Here it is in sunshine:

And here 'tis in the shop with flash:

And here it is w/o flash:

And here's the rest of the story. :nabble_smiley_wink:

DSCN3328.thumb.jpg.7e9eaf12d5f102bef5f58af8aa8d1d99.jpg

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Bill - The "satin" black is more like semi-gloss. :nabble_smiley_cry: Here are some pics to try to show it, but it is hard to tell. I've left it masked in case you want me to shoot it again with something flatter. But, I've not gotten good coverage with second coats, so I'm not sure that'll work very well.

Anyway, I'll hold off unmasking or sanding until you tell me what you want to do.

Here it is in sunshine:

And here 'tis in the shop with flash:

And here it is w/o flash:

I thought you were asking about the top latch and guide pieces. They were the ones I ordered the silver in a satin finish for. Valve cover looks great! Once the ribs and letters are sanded and a clear coat put on it will look very nice on the Pontiac blue-green engine and clear coated aluminum head.

The other bits look great too. I assume I will need a padded wrench for reassembly?

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I thought you were asking about the top latch and guide pieces. They were the ones I ordered the silver in a satin finish for. Valve cover looks great! Once the ribs and letters are sanded and a clear coat put on it will look very nice on the Pontiac blue-green engine and clear coated aluminum head.

The other bits look great too. I assume I will need a padded wrench for reassembly?

Yes, you will need a padded wrench. I use tape and an oversized 6-point socket to install things. And I kept the threads clear, for the most part, so things will be easier to install.

Having said that, those studs have powder on the top threads because you want the very top to be black. So those nuts, which I don't have, are going to damage those threads. You may want to touch up the threads, which shouldn't be too difficult with the black.

Anyway, I'll now do the sanding on the ribs and the letters. Do you what the CHRYSLER letters sanded? Or just the TURBO, along with the ribs? I'm wondering if all of the letters being aluminum would be too much. Your call.

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Yes, you will need a padded wrench. I use tape and an oversized 6-point socket to install things. And I kept the threads clear, for the most part, so things will be easier to install.

Having said that, those studs have powder on the top threads because you want the very top to be black. So those nuts, which I don't have, are going to damage those threads. You may want to touch up the threads, which shouldn't be too difficult with the black.

Anyway, I'll now do the sanding on the ribs and the letters. Do you what the CHRYSLER letters sanded? Or just the TURBO, along with the ribs? I'm wondering if all of the letters being aluminum would be too much. Your call.

Here is what the painted one looked like:

PC280021.thumb.jpg.2003e88f09915953765128e3ac8d0e2f.jpg

PC280022.thumb.jpg.0f73b3b4551f2249c984af0f2daddb4d.jpg

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Looks good. We'll do that. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Well, this weekend marked the beginning of the end for my old war wagon, (the red 84 in my avatar).

Too much rust to continue driving it. Parked it last summer and found a buyer for the 351W and C6. Had a date with the wrenches this weekend. I'm gonna miss that truck!

Of course, parts will live on in my Frankentruck project.

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I've done a few things to my truck yesterday. I replaced the broken exhaust donut gasket that I was unable to convince the muffler shop to replace, even though they had a torch to heat the flange nuts and air tools. A little PB Blaster and a 1/2" drive breaker bar and they came loose. I replaced the sintered iron one with the Felpro composite donut as the iron one wasn't even all there any more. No wonder why it had gotten so loud. I adjusted the distributor for a little more advance at idle. I still need to drive it to determine if it will be OK or if I'll have to take some back out, now that I'll be able to hear if it is pinging. I also removed a spider web of messed up plastic vacuum lines and I have every thing hooked back up and functioning except the vapor recovery. I'll have to get some new vacuum line and connectors and get it hooked back up. The choke hot air tube also got replaced and it is working again so far.
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