WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Hstrymkrs]

Sounds like a plan. As for a clutch, I've had good luck the Luk brand. But if they have two sizes of clutch kit available, go for the bigger one. There were both 10" and 11" clutches for the 300, so it should bolt right on.

Thanks, Gary. That is helpful as I was just trying to figure out which one I had. I was planning on going home to measure after work.

[1986F150Six]

Thanks, Gary. That is helpful as I was just trying to figure out which one I had. I was planning on going home to measure after work.

On my son's 1984 and my 1986 F150s with 4.9L, the flywheel was already drilled for either the 10" or 11". I used LUK. The mounting bolts are a different size when going to the 11" clutch [not a big deal].

[Hstrymkrs]

On my son's 1984 and my 1986 F150s with 4.9L, the flywheel was already drilled for either the 10" or 11". I used LUK. The mounting bolts are a different size when going to the 11" clutch [not a big deal].

I appreciate the extra information. I will order I will plan on ordering the LUK 11 inch clutch.

[Hstrymkrs]

I appreciate the extra information. I will order I will plan on ordering the LUK 11 inch clutch.

Today was a day of cleaning out the engine bay and attempting to rid it of 33 years of grime. I attempted this cleaning with engine degreaser and some simple green. Oddly enough it didn't come near as clean as I hoped it would. This is okay as one can only expect so much without dismantling everything and actually taking harsh chemicals and abrasive material to it. I am not willing to do this at this time as my goal is not a complete restoration but a functional toy and hopefully daily driver.

I noticed the key was extremely difficult to turn in the column-think a lot of force to turn in both directions. I took the steering column apart to see why. It appears that the grease is actually more of a glue now, and should work well once cleaned and regreased. I noticed the blinker assembly had some broken tabs, so I removed it and put that part on the list to purchase. The center piece of the original steering wheel is dry and cracking as well.

I must say, that I find tinkering on the Bronco to be quite therapeutic. I usually only get to work on vehicles when they are broke and needing to be fixed the next day. It is relaxing to actually just tinker for fun.

I know that with our modern toys that this is rather rudimentary, but I just love this retractable hood light. I can't wait to get it going again.

My son was commenting on the "old" radio. I just smiled and told him that it was staying and how excited I was to still have the original radio.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Today was a day of cleaning out the engine bay and attempting to rid it of 33 years of grime. I attempted this cleaning with engine degreaser and some simple green. Oddly enough it didn't come near as clean as I hoped it would. This is okay as one can only expect so much without dismantling everything and actually taking harsh chemicals and abrasive material to it. I am not willing to do this at this time as my goal is not a complete restoration but a functional toy and hopefully daily driver.

I noticed the key was extremely difficult to turn in the column-think a lot of force to turn in both directions. I took the steering column apart to see why. It appears that the grease is actually more of a glue now, and should work well once cleaned and regreased. I noticed the blinker assembly had some broken tabs, so I removed it and put that part on the list to purchase. The center piece of the original steering wheel is dry and cracking as well.

I must say, that I find tinkering on the Bronco to be quite therapeutic. I usually only get to work on vehicles when they are broke and needing to be fixed the next day. It is relaxing to actually just tinker for fun.

I know that with our modern toys that this is rather rudimentary, but I just love this retractable hood light. I can't wait to get it going again.

My son was commenting on the "old" radio. I just smiled and told him that it was staying and how excited I was to still have the original radio.

 

I agree that it is therapeutic, even if you don't get the engine compartment spotless. But, it'll look a lot better than it did, I'm sure.

As for the ignition switch, this time of year is when they get stiff. There are instructions on how to remove & replace the switch itself here: Electrical/Ignition on the Ignition Switch tab.

The underhood light is a cool item.

And the radio has some coolness itself. But I'd like one with Bluetooth capabilities.

[Hstrymkrs]

I agree that it is therapeutic, even if you don't get the engine compartment spotless. But, it'll look a lot better than it did, I'm sure.

As for the ignition switch, this time of year is when they get stiff. There are instructions on how to remove & replace the switch itself here: Electrical/Ignition on the Ignition Switch tab.

The underhood light is a cool item.

And the radio has some coolness itself. But I'd like one with Bluetooth capabilities.

Mail delivery today. Time to get back to work.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Mail delivery today. Time to get back to work.

Tomorrow will be a good day.

[Gary Lewis]

Tomorrow will be a good day.

Well, I'M BACK IN THE SHOP!!!!

Some of you know that we've had live-in grandtwins for about 7 months, so not much has gotten done in the shop. Just a bit of "computing", as in things added to the website since I could get that in between times when I was doing things with them.

And, I absolutely LOVED having them here, and would much rather be with them than in the shop. But, all good things come to an end, and they went to their other grandparents as of yesterday and will be headed back to Nicaragua on the 3rd. So, today I headed out to the shop and will get some "work" done media-blasting on parts for Dad's truck as well as for a friend. (Having said that, I won't be out here tomorrow as I'm gonna watch my team beat up on David's team. )

I'm starting with the 460 parts. The valve covers had been painted with a coat of an aluminum-colored paint, but it blew off easily. And then I blasted both the outside and the inside of one of the covers, as shown below. That's because aluminum is quite porous and holds all kinds of yuk in the pores, so after blasting them you have to run the parts through the oven at 400 degrees for at least an hour before washing them again with brake cleaner and then coating them with powder. That burns the yuk up and then it'll wash off - assuming that you have most of the yuk off before baking.

In this pic the cover in the background hasn't been blasted, but the front one has been and is ready to come out.

And in this one the covers have swapped positions, with the one in the foreground having not been blasted:

We'll see how far I get today, but wanted to put my friend David on notice, and to let my patient friend know that I actually am working on them - finally.

[Dyn Blin]

Well, I'M BACK IN THE SHOP!!!!

Some of you know that we've had live-in grandtwins for about 7 months, so not much has gotten done in the shop. Just a bit of "computing", as in things added to the website since I could get that in between times when I was doing things with them.

And, I absolutely LOVED having them here, and would much rather be with them than in the shop. But, all good things come to an end, and they went to their other grandparents as of yesterday and will be headed back to Nicaragua on the 3rd. So, today I headed out to the shop and will get some "work" done media-blasting on parts for Dad's truck as well as for a friend. (Having said that, I won't be out here tomorrow as I'm gonna watch my team beat up on David's team. )

I'm starting with the 460 parts. The valve covers had been painted with a coat of an aluminum-colored paint, but it blew off easily. And then I blasted both the outside and the inside of one of the covers, as shown below. That's because aluminum is quite porous and holds all kinds of yuk in the pores, so after blasting them you have to run the parts through the oven at 400 degrees for at least an hour before washing them again with brake cleaner and then coating them with powder. That burns the yuk up and then it'll wash off - assuming that you have most of the yuk off before baking.

In this pic the cover in the background hasn't been blasted, but the front one has been and is ready to come out.

And in this one the covers have swapped positions, with the one in the foreground having not been blasted:

We'll see how far I get today, but wanted to put my friend David on notice, and to let my patient friend know that I actually am working on them - finally.

Gary, you may have documented it previously in another post, but do you use soda as the media for aluminium?

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, you may have documented it previously in another post, but do you use soda as the media for aluminium?

No, I'm using coal slag. Aluminum castings need fairly heavy abrasive in order to get things off/out of it, and lighter or softer media doesn't do that. Plus, you don't want smooth surfaces for powder. It needs something with "tooth" to grab hold of.

If I were doing delicate things, like a carb or pistons, then I'd go to walnut hulls and turn the pressure down. But my experience with soda wasn't good. It was too "soft". Lacked "bite". Yes, it might take paint off, but slowly. And it breaks into DUST on impact, so doesn't seem like it would be good in a cabinet. However, I don't know that as I've not tried it.

And, here's what I got done today. Lots of really clean 460 parts. Next up, probably Monday, is to melt some powder on those parts.