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WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?


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  • The lurking disconnect between the ignition switch and the solenoid showed his ugly head again.

    Jumping the battery to the solenoid make quick work of starting the engine. (This time I remembered to leave the key ON.) But, it is a pain, and somewhat embarrasing, to have to lift the hood to start the truck. :nabble_smiley_blush:

My '97 has done that to me a few times too. Although in my family I was more the hero for being able to "hot wire" it so easily (pretty easy to do actually when you have the keys). In my case it sounds like the trans position switch might be the most likely culprit, and the next time it does it I'll try wiggling the shift lever. But somehow I don't think that'll help you with Big Blue.

No, since I have a T19 I doubt it's that. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Last time I tried to troubleshoot it I moved some wires below the brake booster and it started working. And after that I couldn't make it quit.

But since this rascal doesn't have a clutch switch on it there's a possibility that whatever they did to wire around where the switch should be is the culprit. So, when the engine comes out for the refurb and I'm up under the dash installing the hydroboost brake pedal I'll have a good oppo to figure out what's going on and fix it. And I'm for sure going to put a switch on the clutch - that thing scares me as the 460 lights off so easily and stops for nothing. :nabble_smiley_scared:

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No, since I have a T19 I doubt it's that. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Last time I tried to troubleshoot it I moved some wires below the brake booster and it started working. And after that I couldn't make it quit.

But since this rascal doesn't have a clutch switch on it there's a possibility that whatever they did to wire around where the switch should be is the culprit. So, when the engine comes out for the refurb and I'm up under the dash installing the hydroboost brake pedal I'll have a good oppo to figure out what's going on and fix it. And I'm for sure going to put a switch on the clutch - that thing scares me as the 460 lights off so easily and stops for nothing. :nabble_smiley_scared:

After researching the cost of a new vs a clean and tested radiator, I have decided to buy a new double row core for only $40 more. The ones at RadiatorDepot.com look promising. I can't afford an alluminum radiator.

The fuel tank is practically the same story. I will just buy a new one for $90 as I was quoted $40-100 to clean and check it.

I am driving to Tennessee tomorrow to meet my dad and pick up the engine. It is bored .030 over, and he said the block and head looked solid without any defects. I am supposed to get a spec sheet on it when I pick it up.

If all goes well, I will have it in the garage on Sunday and I will start prepping the engine bay for it's install.

 

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After researching the cost of a new vs a clean and tested radiator, I have decided to buy a new double row core for only $40 more. The ones at RadiatorDepot.com look promising. I can't afford an alluminum radiator.

The fuel tank is practically the same story. I will just buy a new one for $90 as I was quoted $40-100 to clean and check it.

I am driving to Tennessee tomorrow to meet my dad and pick up the engine. It is bored .030 over, and he said the block and head looked solid without any defects. I am supposed to get a spec sheet on it when I pick it up.

If all goes well, I will have it in the garage on Sunday and I will start prepping the engine bay for it's install.

I think you are making a wise choice to go with new components. And, that was what I was wishing you were doing instead of cleaning as the prices are so close. Plus, when they clean a tank and find out it is shot then you may have to pay them and buy a new one.

And, since today is yesterday's tomorrow, I hope you are having a safe trip. Let us know how it went, please, and post some pics.

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I think you are making a wise choice to go with new components. And, that was what I was wishing you were doing instead of cleaning as the prices are so close. Plus, when they clean a tank and find out it is shot then you may have to pay them and buy a new one.

And, since today is yesterday's tomorrow, I hope you are having a safe trip. Let us know how it went, please, and post some pics.

Thanks you for the well wishes. The trip was uneventful as we made good time down and back. The engine is in a bag, so I haven't opened it to take pictures. Unfortunately it has rained all day, and it will need to sit on the trailer tonight under a tarp and I will need to play musical vehicles/trailers tomorrow to get it all in the garage. I will post some pics then.

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Hstrymkrs - What's the status? Did you buy the new radiator? Did the fuel tank clean up well? Is the engine back? Inquiring minds want to know! :nabble_smiley_wink:

So, what did I do to my truck today? Nada. Today Brandon/Bruno2 came by and we cut up 3/4" thick steel and drilled holes in it. Not sure why he came here - surely a hack saw would've eventually gotten that 5" cut done. And a file would have cleaned it nicely. As for his hand drill, I think it would have placed those three holes exactly where they needed to be. :nabble_smiley_evil:

As it was, the band saw got used, the mill w/a flycutter cleaned the cut up nicely, and the mill made the holes exactly where they needed to be. But, I will have to admit that the steel was tough. Not sure what it was, but it was quite hard.

Having said all that, I did drive Big Blue a couple of days ago and forgot to report the defugelties:

  • The passenger's door didn't want to unlock. David/1986F150Six told me that the problem is usually bent linkage in the door. Great. :nabble_smiley_cry:

  • The HVAC system didn't want to change where the air was being directed. In fact, I'm not sure where it was being directed. The fan was running but there was little air coming out anywhere. :nabble_anim_confused:

  • The lurking disconnect between the ignition switch and the solenoid showed his ugly head again.

    Jumping the battery to the solenoid make quick work of starting the engine. (This time I remembered to leave the key ON.) But, it is a pain, and somewhat embarrasing, to have to lift the hood to start the truck. :nabble_smiley_blush:

Have you found the gremlin that keeps disconnecting your switch to solenoid connection? I hear my dad asking me if I checked ked all the ground wires, and I always reply yes knowing that I haven't checked them all.

I was having a problem with the Ford Tempo a few months ago with switch being intermittent, and the box where the contacts slide together was starting to separate. I was able to squeeze all the tabs back together tightly, and it has worked great. I haven't taken the steering column off the Bronco yet, but it needs it. The switch is very hard to turn, and all the mechanisms are stiff.

I hate having to dig into the door mechanisms. Such a small place for a man's hands. I need to replace my door panels, and I expect the window motors will need replacing. I personally wouldn't mind changing them to window cranks. I disconnected all the electric motors for the locks on the Tempo, and just made it manual. It is much better.

I hope the solutions are mentally stimulating and enjoyable to fix. :nabble_anim_confused:

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Thanks you for the well wishes. The trip was uneventful as we made good time down and back. The engine is in a bag, so I haven't opened it to take pictures. Unfortunately it has rained all day, and it will need to sit on the trailer tonight under a tarp and I will need to play musical vehicles/trailers tomorrow to get it all in the garage. I will post some pics then.

Glad you had a safe and uneventful trip.

As for the gremlin, no I've not found it. But I'm pretty sure it isn't a ground as just jumping from the battery to the solenoid's trigger terminal starts the engine every time. However, there is a remote chance that I'm pressing on the solenoid just enough to cause it's case to ground, so I'll check to make sure it is well grounded - but don't tell your father. :nabble_smiley_wink:

As for the doors, I tend to agree with you on the lack of space in there. However, I'm not sure I agree with you on the windows and locks. Big Blue has manual windows and locks, and I frequently want the passenger's window down but cannot reach it w/o stopping the truck, unbuckling, and leaning waaaay over. So I'd like power windows.

And, I want to put a security system on the truck, so need power locks to make it easy to use. The way it is I let my wife into the truck by walking around and unlocking the passenger's door, and it is way too far across for her to lean across and unlock my door once she's in, so I unlock it with the key as well.

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Glad you had a safe and uneventful trip.

As for the gremlin, no I've not found it. But I'm pretty sure it isn't a ground as just jumping from the battery to the solenoid's trigger terminal starts the engine every time. However, there is a remote chance that I'm pressing on the solenoid just enough to cause it's case to ground, so I'll check to make sure it is well grounded - but don't tell your father. :nabble_smiley_wink:

As for the doors, I tend to agree with you on the lack of space in there. However, I'm not sure I agree with you on the windows and locks. Big Blue has manual windows and locks, and I frequently want the passenger's window down but cannot reach it w/o stopping the truck, unbuckling, and leaning waaaay over. So I'd like power windows.

And, I want to put a security system on the truck, so need power locks to make it easy to use. The way it is I let my wife into the truck by walking around and unlocking the passenger's door, and it is way too far across for her to lean across and unlock my door once she's in, so I unlock it with the key as well.

One thing I always liked about Ford is how just pulling the inside handle also unlocks the doors. Granted, on the full size vehicles it always creates an extra reach and a grunt. :nabble_smiley_happy:

I was able to get the engine off the trailer and I into the garage without any issues.

Here she is ready for more adventures.

IMG_20181216_163159178.thumb.jpg.75caa85c7342f5e566dc98ae2b65b1f8.jpg

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One thing I always liked about Ford is how just pulling the inside handle also unlocks the doors. Granted, on the full size vehicles it always creates an extra reach and a grunt. :nabble_smiley_happy:

I was able to get the engine off the trailer and I into the garage without any issues.

Here she is ready for more adventures.

IMG_20181216_163159178.jpg

Engine looks great. :nabble_smiley_good: When do you think you'll get it in?

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Engine looks great. :nabble_smiley_good: When do you think you'll get it in?

I have 8 days off work next week surrounding the holidays. If weather permits and I get the clutch kit and motor mounts on time, I will try to get it in then.

Any advice on clutch kits? I assume that a stock kit will do the job nicely as I will not be hot rodding it. I hope to pull some more torque and a little extra HP, but it won't be gradios or anything.

I hope to get the engine bay cleaned up tomorrow.

I will add a couple small chrome accents and some blue or grey plug wires.

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I have 8 days off work next week surrounding the holidays. If weather permits and I get the clutch kit and motor mounts on time, I will try to get it in then.

Any advice on clutch kits? I assume that a stock kit will do the job nicely as I will not be hot rodding it. I hope to pull some more torque and a little extra HP, but it won't be gradios or anything.

I hope to get the engine bay cleaned up tomorrow.

I will add a couple small chrome accents and some blue or grey plug wires.

Sounds like a plan. As for a clutch, I've had good luck the Luk brand. But if they have two sizes of clutch kit available, go for the bigger one. There were both 10" and 11" clutches for the 300, so it should bolt right on.

 

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