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High pitched whine is usually caused by a gasket leaking. This can be due to a warped carburetor body, an improperly cleaned gasket surface, a warped PCV plate under the carb. Before you carry it somewhere, get some carburetor cleaner and spray it on the gasket areas. When you hit the right spot, the whine should at least change and the idle may smooth out for a bit as the cleaner is drawn in.

Due to the large bolt pattern Ford uses the slightest lack of flatness will result in a leak since the carb mounting gasket and the EGR/PCV plate to intake can be quite thin.

Ok, it seemed to slow down when spray hit the spacer area around the pcv port .correction it did slow down! I'll put new gaskets on top and bottom of spacer and see what happens.

Thanks for the input.

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Ok, it seemed to slow down when spray hit the spacer area around the pcv port .correction it did slow down! I'll put new gaskets on top and bottom of spacer and see what happens.

Thanks for the input.

Don't just replace the gaskets. Lay them on and make sure they cover the holes.

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The plate under the carb can easily have a vacuum leak, and that's the first place I'd check. Make sure that you have the right gaskets as that intake should be set up for EGR and not all gaskets cover the holes correctly.

That's where the engine slowed down after I sprayed carb cleaner, specifically by the pcv port. Thanks for the comment Gary. I'm truly getting angry at this thing. And that breather does not fit anything but the 7200VV and a Holley 2300 .might fit a 4barrel ford/lincoln lol

Well time to go to work in Tulsa ugh .

 

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Gotcha 👌

Another day working on a non-bullnose project. My trusty 2003 Ranger had a catastrophic failure of the cam sensor gear last winter. Not uncommon on those Vulcan 3.0's. This truck was a rebuild a few years back and I had purchased a second wrecked truck for parts. It had a low mileage 3.0 that ran very well.

Only difference was the model year, 2000 vs. 2003. Considering that it is the same basic engine, it was quite a surprise to find out what all had to be changed. Basically everything on top of the engine, even the valve covers! Since I work at about 1/4 speed of what I used to be able to accomplish, I finally got this project together and I started it up. Not bad for an engine that had not run in 5 years, but the gauge showed no oil pressure!

I shut the engine down and stepped out of the cab into a growing lake of dirty motor oil. I had forgotten to reinstall the oil filter. :nabble_anim_crazy:

Just another reminder about how simple things used to be and how unreliable my old grey brain cells have become.

I have a 2006 Escape that also requires a motor swap. Simple matter of a jumped timing chain, but it was cheaper to source a low mileage 3.0 Duratec than it was to repair what I had. Turns out the replacement was out of a Taurus and all accessories need to be swapped from the Escape engine, but of course, they are the same basic block. Unfortunately, this motor swap comes out the bottom and that means a lift is a necessity. Not having one, this is getting farmed out.

I have a couple 95 and 97 F250 SD 4X4's that need attention and they are on the to do list. Also have an 89 F150 I was readying for my son. More fuel tanks and transmission swaps here, but at least not as frustrating as my Ranger and Escape. Need to change the rusty box on my 98 F150 4X4. Everybody in the family gets a Ford.

My Frankentruck is waiting patiently.

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I shut the engine down and stepped out of the cab into a growing lake of dirty motor oil. I had forgotten to reinstall the oil filter. :nabble_anim_crazy:

Just another reminder about how simple things used to be and how unreliable my old grey brain cells have become.

A coworker of mine did this with a 1985 5.0 Mustang GT back in 1989 when we were working at a Texaco station on the TCH. When we weren't pumping gas we did oil changes and tire changes. He hopped in the Mustang and started revving it up while it was still on the hoist. He stopped once we saw the oil pouring out from under the car...fresh new oil that is...lol. We knew the customer at the time, and he would have been horrified had he known.

 

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Another day working on a non-bullnose project. My trusty 2003 Ranger had a catastrophic failure of the cam sensor gear last winter. Not uncommon on those Vulcan 3.0's. This truck was a rebuild a few years back and I had purchased a second wrecked truck for parts. It had a low mileage 3.0 that ran very well.

Only difference was the model year, 2000 vs. 2003. Considering that it is the same basic engine, it was quite a surprise to find out what all had to be changed. Basically everything on top of the engine, even the valve covers! Since I work at about 1/4 speed of what I used to be able to accomplish, I finally got this project together and I started it up. Not bad for an engine that had not run in 5 years, but the gauge showed no oil pressure!

I shut the engine down and stepped out of the cab into a growing lake of dirty motor oil. I had forgotten to reinstall the oil filter. :nabble_anim_crazy:

Just another reminder about how simple things used to be and how unreliable my old grey brain cells have become.

I have a 2006 Escape that also requires a motor swap. Simple matter of a jumped timing chain, but it was cheaper to source a low mileage 3.0 Duratec than it was to repair what I had. Turns out the replacement was out of a Taurus and all accessories need to be swapped from the Escape engine, but of course, they are the same basic block. Unfortunately, this motor swap comes out the bottom and that means a lift is a necessity. Not having one, this is getting farmed out.

I have a couple 95 and 97 F250 SD 4X4's that need attention and they are on the to do list. Also have an 89 F150 I was readying for my son. More fuel tanks and transmission swaps here, but at least not as frustrating as my Ranger and Escape. Need to change the rusty box on my 98 F150 4X4. Everybody in the family gets a Ford.

My Frankentruck is waiting patiently.

I haven't left one off, but I did put one on w/an extra gasket. Turns out the gasket on the old one stuck to the adapter, and the gasket on the new one didn't line up perfectly. With a little lube on the new one it slipped off the side and there was a sizable leak - of new oil. :nabble_smiley_blush:

Anyway, you've been and will be busy. FORDing. Lotsa fun!

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High pitched whine is usually caused by a gasket leaking. This can be due to a warped carburetor body, an improperly cleaned gasket surface, a warped PCV plate under the carb. Before you carry it somewhere, get some carburetor cleaner and spray it on the gasket areas. When you hit the right spot, the whine should at least change and the idle may smooth out for a bit as the cleaner is drawn in.

Due to the large bolt pattern Ford uses the slightest lack of flatness will result in a leak since the carb mounting gasket and the EGR/PCV plate to intake can be quite thin.

I have a couple of new gaskets coming in the morning and hoping that cures my whine.

I do have another question for you though, on a mechanical fuel pump shouldn't some gas dribble out of the fuel line when taken off the carburetor? Does this indicate my old pump is not holding any pressure or is this normal.

Thank you!

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I have a couple of new gaskets coming in the morning and hoping that cures my whine.

I do have another question for you though, on a mechanical fuel pump shouldn't some gas dribble out of the fuel line when taken off the carburetor? Does this indicate my old pump is not holding any pressure or is this normal.

Thank you!

You don’t always get fuel out of the line. Might be the pump, or it might be the carb. But it doesn’t mean there’s a problem.

Hope the gaskets do it.

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