WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[red1980F150]

Just cleaned the surface real good, then scuffed it with a maroon pad, then sprayed with DupliColor Plastic and Vinyl dye

The SEM instructions for prep are much more involved than that. It'll be interesting to see how it works for you.

Check out this fuel line. I'm happy I saw it before anything bad happened.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Check out this fuel line. I'm happy I saw it before anything bad happened.

That's between the fuel pump and the hardline behind the steering box?

If so, you would just be sucking wind.

No fuel would spray out.

[Gary Lewis]

That's between the fuel pump and the hardline behind the steering box?

If so, you would just be sucking wind.

No fuel would spray out.

Yes, but you might be left on the side of the road. I was, several times, until I figured out that the hoses were leaking air in and killing the vacuum the pump was creating to move the fuel. So it is a good thing you found that.

Now go look at the one from the tank to the hard line. And if you have dual tanks, look at the ones from the hard lines to the switching valve and then from it back to the hard line. They are all the same age.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, Have you taken Janey to Hamilton Missouri yet? Missouri Star Quilt Company, the whole town is devoted to quilting. My wife loved it when she went with her quilt buddies. They even have a big Man Cave for the husbands to stay in while the women folk shop.

https://www.missouriquiltco.com/

Bruce - I've spent several hours in that man cave. Nice big leather recliners, wifi, TV, and lots of books and magazines. Yep, been there, done that, and probably will go back.

And Paducah. And Houston. And.....

[Rusty_S85]

Made a couple of water shields for my doors today and completed out the interior. I'm very pleased at how the water shields came out, not to mention it was all less than $15. From Ace Hardware, a $9 11 mil poly paint tarp and a roll of quality 3M tape. I think it's worth sharing, so basically made a rough template from paper and then a cardboard template for which the pattern could be drawn on the tarp. Cut out the water shield and taped the edges and then taped it to the door panel.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96492/Water_Shield_1.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96492/Watershield_2.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96492/Watershield3.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96492/Watershield4.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96492/Watershield6.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96492/Waatershiel5.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96492/Watershield7.jpg

Same thing I did except I didnt do the cardboard template I just cut a piece of plastic sheeting to general size then fine tuned it. I also used clear gorilla tape to lock the plastic in place as well as to seal the plastic to the opening.

After doing that I actually noticed a difference in the interior cabin temperature. the AC was actually keeping up a bit better in summer time compared to before with the rotten paper shield that was mostly gone.

Been doing some research on a part I stumbled across a few weeks ago on ebay. While browsing I came across a NOS off road light switch under the number F0TZ-15A214-A. I got curious and checked the parts and illustration guide to see if there was a listing for a Off Road light switch for our trucks and sure enough there was one for the '86 model year under the number E6TZ-15A214-A. I wasnt able to find much out about this part other than a couple photos that shows its a square switch that obviously snaps into either E6ZZ-15A218-A bracket and possibly mounts under the dash or it uses the bracket as a reinforcement to the plastic bezel that it snaps into.

The illustration guide shows that this switch which is the same core number as the fog lamp switch mounts next to the headlight/wiper switch on the dash. I dont know if this switch mounts there as well for the driving lights as the fog lamp mounts to the dash itself and sticks through a bezel in the cluster bezel.

Still trying to find a photo of this switch installed in a '86 year model truck to see if it would be possible to make it look right on a '82 year model like my truck. Im thinking if I do follow through with my plans for a roll bar with a pair of spot and flood lights I could use this switch to activate or deactivate the ground side trigger on the relays for those lights. Could also even wire it into my highbeam trigger for my grill guard mounted driving lights and use the switch to kill those two relays for on road use.

This is the switch below I was able to find a photo of. It appears to have a illumination slot below the off road light symbol that would light up when the switch is active.

[rcarlisle]

Been doing some research on a part I stumbled across a few weeks ago on ebay. While browsing I came across a NOS off road light switch under the number F0TZ-15A214-A. I got curious and checked the parts and illustration guide to see if there was a listing for a Off Road light switch for our trucks and sure enough there was one for the '86 model year under the number E6TZ-15A214-A. I wasnt able to find much out about this part other than a couple photos that shows its a square switch that obviously snaps into either E6ZZ-15A218-A bracket and possibly mounts under the dash or it uses the bracket as a reinforcement to the plastic bezel that it snaps into.

The illustration guide shows that this switch which is the same core number as the fog lamp switch mounts next to the headlight/wiper switch on the dash. I dont know if this switch mounts there as well for the driving lights as the fog lamp mounts to the dash itself and sticks through a bezel in the cluster bezel.

Still trying to find a photo of this switch installed in a '86 year model truck to see if it would be possible to make it look right on a '82 year model like my truck. Im thinking if I do follow through with my plans for a roll bar with a pair of spot and flood lights I could use this switch to activate or deactivate the ground side trigger on the relays for those lights. Could also even wire it into my highbeam trigger for my grill guard mounted driving lights and use the switch to kill those two relays for on road use.

This is the switch below I was able to find a photo of. It appears to have a illumination slot below the off road light symbol that would light up when the switch is active.

I like that. Might also be nice if I can't get my reverse lights figured out and have to wire in something manual. I used to have a set of fog lights on the back bumper of my Dodge for when we were out in the woods after dark.

[kramttocs]

Been doing some research on a part I stumbled across a few weeks ago on ebay. While browsing I came across a NOS off road light switch under the number F0TZ-15A214-A. I got curious and checked the parts and illustration guide to see if there was a listing for a Off Road light switch for our trucks and sure enough there was one for the '86 model year under the number E6TZ-15A214-A. I wasnt able to find much out about this part other than a couple photos that shows its a square switch that obviously snaps into either E6ZZ-15A218-A bracket and possibly mounts under the dash or it uses the bracket as a reinforcement to the plastic bezel that it snaps into.

The illustration guide shows that this switch which is the same core number as the fog lamp switch mounts next to the headlight/wiper switch on the dash. I dont know if this switch mounts there as well for the driving lights as the fog lamp mounts to the dash itself and sticks through a bezel in the cluster bezel.

Still trying to find a photo of this switch installed in a '86 year model truck to see if it would be possible to make it look right on a '82 year model like my truck. Im thinking if I do follow through with my plans for a roll bar with a pair of spot and flood lights I could use this switch to activate or deactivate the ground side trigger on the relays for those lights. Could also even wire it into my highbeam trigger for my grill guard mounted driving lights and use the switch to kill those two relays for on road use.

This is the switch below I was able to find a photo of. It appears to have a illumination slot below the off road light symbol that would light up when the switch is active.

Interesting.

Link for reference

E6TZ-15A214-A .. ROAD Lamp Switch-Use with E6TZ-15200-A Marchal Driving Light Kit / Use w/Roll Bar.

Fits: 1986/89 F150/350 & Ranger.

I've seen a couple of the dealer installed lights on the previous gen trucks but the switch that goes on them has a bracket that screws into the dash itself (not the bezel) and looks about as factory as something you'd pick up at your auto parts store.

Seen here:

I think it'd be neat to remove the print/icon from a Bronco rear defroster switch (mounts in the same spot as a speed control module) and repurpose it for something like this.

Whatever you find Rusty, keep us updated

[Rusty_S85]

I like that. Might also be nice if I can't get my reverse lights figured out and have to wire in something manual. I used to have a set of fog lights on the back bumper of my Dodge for when we were out in the woods after dark.

I like it too as its compact. If it can be snapped into the dash bezel itself it would be even better.

Interesting.

Link for reference

E6TZ-15A214-A .. ROAD Lamp Switch-Use with E6TZ-15200-A Marchal Driving Light Kit / Use w/Roll Bar.

Fits: 1986/89 F150/350 & Ranger.

I've seen a couple of the dealer installed lights on the previous gen trucks but the switch that goes on them has a bracket that screws into the dash itself (not the bezel) and looks about as factory as something you'd pick up at your auto parts store.

Seen here:

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96861/dealerLights.jpg

I think it'd be neat to remove the print/icon from a Bronco rear defroster switch (mounts in the same spot as a speed control module) and repurpose it for something like this.

Whatever you find Rusty, keep us updated

Yep I saw that, thats why I suspect the bracket might be for mounting under the dash but not sure. Under the dash wouldnt be a problem how ever but I am curious at just how it would mount. Going to do some more searching tonight on google images to see if I can find a '86 truck with this switch.

[Rusty_S85]

I like that. Might also be nice if I can't get my reverse lights figured out and have to wire in something manual. I used to have a set of fog lights on the back bumper of my Dodge for when we were out in the woods after dark.

I like it too as its compact. If it can be snapped into the dash bezel itself it would be even better.

Interesting.

Link for reference

E6TZ-15A214-A .. ROAD Lamp Switch-Use with E6TZ-15200-A Marchal Driving Light Kit / Use w/Roll Bar.

Fits: 1986/89 F150/350 & Ranger.

I've seen a couple of the dealer installed lights on the previous gen trucks but the switch that goes on them has a bracket that screws into the dash itself (not the bezel) and looks about as factory as something you'd pick up at your auto parts store.

Seen here:

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n96861/dealerLights.jpg

I think it'd be neat to remove the print/icon from a Bronco rear defroster switch (mounts in the same spot as a speed control module) and repurpose it for something like this.

Whatever you find Rusty, keep us updated

Yep I saw that, thats why I suspect the bracket might be for mounting under the dash but not sure. Under the dash wouldnt be a problem how ever but I am curious at just how it would mount. Going to do some more searching tonight on google images to see if I can find a '86 truck with this switch.

Should be getting my NOS distributor hold down tomorrow in the mail and I just ordered off ebay a NOS Ford timing pointer to save myself the time of disassembly. Can simply just assemble the new engine and remove the accessory brackets and bolt them up to the new engine then move the truck in pull engine drop new in and start hooking everything back up.

Only thing that is bothering me now is I have so many people telling me to toss the Performer 2121 intake I have and get the Performer RPM intake even though its power band is 1,000 rpm higher than what my cam is. They claim the RPM will help 5000 rpm up while the 2121 I have is going to fall on its face at 5,000 even though its listed as idle to 5500 rpm. With all that naysaying it has me starting to question it myself even considering that I have better than stock flowing heads for this build as well as higher than stock lift at 0.520"/0.542". Probably just over thinking it but its gnawing at me right now as I hate to waste the time and the expensive 2K Urethane engine paint only to have to pull the intake off cause it just isnt good enough.

I tried looking at others but none of them have what I need such as a pad to drill and tap for an extra coolant sensor, only the 2121 I saw had this pad which helps strengthen the location for adding a sensor. Then there is the issue with the vacuum ports on the back, some that have them put them in a spot where the factory vacuum tree cant be threaded in as it will hit the throttle cable bracket or it just doesnt have a vacuum port in the first place. I even looked at the Weiand Stealth which I saw many on the ford fourms talk about what a great manifold it is making power idle to 6,800 rpm but yet it still has the same issues as far as coolant and vacuum ports goes. Also not sure if I could still use the 1" phenolic plastic spacer and heat insulator gasket I planned on using.

Sucks when you are on the final stretch and you start questioning some minute details that you probably shouldnt be questioning but at this stage its hard to do when I dont have much to research for my build anymore.

[grumpin]

Should be getting my NOS distributor hold down tomorrow in the mail and I just ordered off ebay a NOS Ford timing pointer to save myself the time of disassembly. Can simply just assemble the new engine and remove the accessory brackets and bolt them up to the new engine then move the truck in pull engine drop new in and start hooking everything back up.

Only thing that is bothering me now is I have so many people telling me to toss the Performer 2121 intake I have and get the Performer RPM intake even though its power band is 1,000 rpm higher than what my cam is. They claim the RPM will help 5000 rpm up while the 2121 I have is going to fall on its face at 5,000 even though its listed as idle to 5500 rpm. With all that naysaying it has me starting to question it myself even considering that I have better than stock flowing heads for this build as well as higher than stock lift at 0.520"/0.542". Probably just over thinking it but its gnawing at me right now as I hate to waste the time and the expensive 2K Urethane engine paint only to have to pull the intake off cause it just isnt good enough.

I tried looking at others but none of them have what I need such as a pad to drill and tap for an extra coolant sensor, only the 2121 I saw had this pad which helps strengthen the location for adding a sensor. Then there is the issue with the vacuum ports on the back, some that have them put them in a spot where the factory vacuum tree cant be threaded in as it will hit the throttle cable bracket or it just doesnt have a vacuum port in the first place. I even looked at the Weiand Stealth which I saw many on the ford fourms talk about what a great manifold it is making power idle to 6,800 rpm but yet it still has the same issues as far as coolant and vacuum ports goes. Also not sure if I could still use the 1" phenolic plastic spacer and heat insulator gasket I planned on using.

Sucks when you are on the final stretch and you start questioning some minute details that you probably shouldnt be questioning but at this stage its hard to do when I dont have much to research for my build anymore.

Rusty, my first thought is, are the people that are telling you this, do they have experience with both intakes? Or is it “magazine stand” talk. Folks at your place of employment would make me think twice though.

My other thought is personal preference. I like torque down low, not horsepower up high. I want a truck to pull, not to race. But, I understand what you are saying about pulling the manifold after it’s painted and together.