ArdWrknTrk Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 I have stared it for what seems like hours. It sure looks like when it contracts it closes the plate and expands it opens the plate. The direction from Mike's Carbs say the plate should follow the direction you turn the cap which is what happens. Im wondering which direction the coil is contracting.... But I would definitely be looking for whatever is causing the plate or linkage to drag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 14, 2020 Author Share Posted November 14, 2020 Im wondering which direction the coil is contracting.... But I would definitely be looking for whatever is causing the plate or linkage to drag. On most caps the coil could be removed and re-installed backwards. And, if so then it'll go the wrong way when it heats up. I think that is what Jim is suggesting. So I'd pull the cap and see which way that coil is trying to push the linkage. If it is pushing it closed then all is good. But if it is pushing it open then we have a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG2020 Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 On most caps the coil could be removed and re-installed backwards. And, if so then it'll go the wrong way when it heats up. I think that is what Jim is suggesting. So I'd pull the cap and see which way that coil is trying to push the linkage. If it is pushing it closed then all is good. But if it is pushing it open then we have a problem. Hi, So today I brought the choke cap inside. Put it in the fridge and it closed up the correct way, put a little warm air on it and it expanded the correct way. I installed it on the rebuilt genuine carter YFA I got on eBay and adjusted it on my work bench. Turned the air mix screw out 1.5 turns . It started right up and it ran like a diff truck. I went for a 20 min ride on the highway at 65 and the diff was amazing! At idle it is very steady and quiet. I guess the repro carb that was on there has some issues. Next nice day I’ll adjust the idle and check the timing again with a vacuum gauge . Progress! I will check the choke in the morning to check if it is closed after pressing the has pedal. Thanks again for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 14, 2020 Author Share Posted November 14, 2020 Hi, So today I brought the choke cap inside. Put it in the fridge and it closed up the correct way, put a little warm air on it and it expanded the correct way. I installed it on the rebuilt genuine carter YFA I got on eBay and adjusted it on my work bench. Turned the air mix screw out 1.5 turns . It started right up and it ran like a diff truck. I went for a 20 min ride on the highway at 65 and the diff was amazing! At idle it is very steady and quiet. I guess the repro carb that was on there has some issues. Next nice day I’ll adjust the idle and check the timing again with a vacuum gauge . Progress! I will check the choke in the morning to check if it is closed after pressing the has pedal. Thanks again for all the help. Yippee! Progress! You are peeling off the layers of this onion very nicely and soon you'll have a mess of onion rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG2020 Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 Yippee! Progress! :nabble_anim_claps:You are peeling off the layers of this onion very nicely and soon you'll have a mess of onion rings. Ha ha! Thanks. Do you think it’s worth it to rebuild the repro carb ? On Sat, Nov 14, 2020 at 4:24 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 14, 2020 Author Share Posted November 14, 2020 Do you need another carb? If the carb that is on is working well I might put the other one on the shelf and rebuild it if you need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG2020 Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 Do you need another carb? If the carb that is on is working well I might put the other one on the shelf and rebuild it if you need it.I don’t need it. It looks clean and not sure what’s wrong with it. Might just need a good cleaning. Happy to donate it if someone is in need of it. On Sat, Nov 14, 2020 at 4:33 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 Hi, So today I brought the choke cap inside. Put it in the fridge and it closed up the correct way, put a little warm air on it and it expanded the correct way. I installed it on the rebuilt genuine carter YFA I got on eBay and adjusted it on my work bench. Turned the air mix screw out 1.5 turns . It started right up and it ran like a diff truck. I went for a 20 min ride on the highway at 65 and the diff was amazing! At idle it is very steady and quiet. I guess the repro carb that was on there has some issues. Next nice day I’ll adjust the idle and check the timing again with a vacuum gauge . Progress! I will check the choke in the morning to check if it is closed after pressing the has pedal. Thanks again for all the help. This is great news, Josh! So glad your eBay YF carburetor is working well in your truck. It's only getting colder 'til February so a functioning choke is essential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 This is great news, Josh! So glad your eBay YF carburetor is working well in your truck. It's only getting colder 'til February so a functioning choke is essential. Question for Gary, or anyone that is not electrical challenged, Will this relay be OK to use in the headlight upgrade, the number of pins out is 4 instead of 5, my concern is the tie in of both lights on the power out pin to the lights. It's rated 30amps. This would eliminate the fuse block, and extra wiring. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Car-Automotive-On-Off-Fused-Relay-4-Pin-30A-Fuse-with-Holder-Socket/174317396495?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D00bd36799660471dbe628de3efc30a65%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D264469267186%26itm%3D174317396495%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Question for Gary, or anyone that is not electrical challenged, Will this relay be OK to use in the headlight upgrade, the number of pins out is 4 instead of 5, my concern is the tie in of both lights on the power out pin to the lights. It's rated 30amps. This would eliminate the fuse block, and extra wiring. https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Car-Automotive-On-Off-Fused-Relay-4-Pin-30A-Fuse-with-Holder-Socket/174317396495?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D00bd36799660471dbe628de3efc30a65%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D264469267186%26itm%3D174317396495%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 Yep - will work fine. I bought a multipack of those awhile back (there is a thread where we discussed them somewhere). Having the fuse built in is nice for a clean look. 30amps is standard and plenty for the headlights - I'd have to check but for the fuse I think I am using a 15amp like factory. With the headlight mod you only need the 4 as you don't need a NC pin. Just make sure to grab two of them (hi/low). You can splice the two headlights together anywhere but I did mine in the headlight plug on the passenger side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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