WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[Gary Lewis]

Gary - Since the manifold is off the truck, you could also try soaking that manifold in some rust remover like Metal Rescue or Evapo-Rust. I have used the Metal Rescue on a bunch of old tools and it does work it's way into threads/cracks. Just might need to soak, clean with a wire brush, soak, repeat.....

Those are good ideas. I've not used those products, but will pick some up and try it. And, I still have the heads on Huck's engine so plan to bolt the manifold back on before working on it with any vengence, so that should both make it easier as well as protect the manifold.

Thanks!

[Gary Lewis]

Those are good ideas. I've not used those products, but will pick some up and try it. And, I still have the heads on Huck's engine so plan to bolt the manifold back on before working on it with any vengence, so that should both make it easier as well as protect the manifold.

Thanks!

Mid-day update. I bought the Evapo-Rust and have the manifold/EGR tube combo sitting in it. Had to saw the EGR tube off in order to get it in a container small enough that I'd have enough of the chemical, but this looks like it'll work. The instructions say to immerse the part in the chemical for 1 to 12 hours, but I'm thinking that 24 hours won't hurt. Will pull it out tomorrow.

And, while pulling the manifold off I got something out that tells me there's been a problem before. Someone enlighten the others.

[1986F150Six]

Mid-day update. I bought the Evapo-Rust and have the manifold/EGR tube combo sitting in it. Had to saw the EGR tube off in order to get it in a container small enough that I'd have enough of the chemical, but this looks like it'll work. The instructions say to immerse the part in the chemical for 1 to 12 hours, but I'm thinking that 24 hours won't hurt. Will pull it out tomorrow.

And, while pulling the manifold off I got something out that tells me there's been a problem before. Someone enlighten the others.

Stripped thread repaired with a helicoil.

[Gary Lewis]

Stripped thread repaired with a helicoil.

Amen, brother! So, now I'll have to have the head repaired, or do it myself. A friend told me of a guy that does nothing but heads, so I'll take them to him for a valve job, seals, etc. Maybe he also does helicoils.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Amen, brother! So, now I'll have to have the head repaired, or do it myself. A friend told me of a guy that does nothing but heads, so I'll take them to him for a valve job, seals, etc. Maybe he also does helicoils.

If you use a Keen-sert it cannot back out.

Whoever did that repair likely did not remove the drive tang with needlenose pliers.

[Gary Lewis]

If you use a Keen-sert it cannot back out.

Whoever did that repair likely did not remove the drive tang with needlenose pliers.

Interesting. Did some reading on Keensert and found this:

Acme Threaded Inserts are often compared to Keensert® inserts and Heli-Coil® inserts. .... All of these products are used for thread repair or to bolster the strength of a weaker parent metal, like aluminum.

Acme Keylocking Inserts vs. Heli-Coil® Inserts

The largest differences between the inserts are in strength and ease of installation. Heli-Coil® inserts are precision formed thread coils made of stainless steel wire. Installing a Heli-Coil® insert involves tapping (or re-tapping if a thread repair job) a hole, lining up the Heli-Coil® thread with the tapped hole and using a special use tool to install. Cross threading can be a problem if the installer is inexperienced. Heli-Coil® inserts have less pull-out strength than Acme threaded inserts or Keensert®-style products because they are wound wire versus a solid metal bushing.

Both Acme Threaded Inserts and Keensert®-style inserts are easy to install with standard drills and taps. The inserts are placed by the installer's fingers, without the need of a pre-winder tool. Accidental cross-threading is nearly impossible.

When an Acme or Keensert®-style insert needs to be removed, the material between the keys is drilled out with a standard drill, the keys are bent inward to break off, and a standard screw extractor is used. If a removed insert needs to be replaced, the new insert can be placed into the original tapped hole.

And this chart:

 

[fords4life]

Mid-day update. I bought the Evapo-Rust and have the manifold/EGR tube combo sitting in it. Had to saw the EGR tube off in order to get it in a container small enough that I'd have enough of the chemical, but this looks like it'll work. The instructions say to immerse the part in the chemical for 1 to 12 hours, but I'm thinking that 24 hours won't hurt. Will pull it out tomorrow.

And, while pulling the manifold off I got something out that tells me there's been a problem before. Someone enlighten the others.

Gary - I would give it a few hours soak and the take a wire brush to it and get all of it off that you can. Then let it soak again. The more surface stuff you get off, the faster it can soak in. Keep us updated!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Interesting. Did some reading on Keensert and found this:

Acme Threaded Inserts are often compared to Keensert® inserts and Heli-Coil® inserts. .... All of these products are used for thread repair or to bolster the strength of a weaker parent metal, like aluminum.

Acme Keylocking Inserts vs. Heli-Coil® Inserts

The largest differences between the inserts are in strength and ease of installation. Heli-Coil® inserts are precision formed thread coils made of stainless steel wire. Installing a Heli-Coil® insert involves tapping (or re-tapping if a thread repair job) a hole, lining up the Heli-Coil® thread with the tapped hole and using a special use tool to install. Cross threading can be a problem if the installer is inexperienced. Heli-Coil® inserts have less pull-out strength than Acme threaded inserts or Keensert®-style products because they are wound wire versus a solid metal bushing.

Both Acme Threaded Inserts and Keensert®-style inserts are easy to install with standard drills and taps. The inserts are placed by the installer's fingers, without the need of a pre-winder tool. Accidental cross-threading is nearly impossible.

When an Acme or Keensert®-style insert needs to be removed, the material between the keys is drilled out with a standard drill, the keys are bent inward to break off, and a standard screw extractor is used. If a removed insert needs to be replaced, the new insert can be placed into the original tapped hole.

And this chart:

I'm not familiar with Acme threaded inserts (and I usually use Heli-coil) but they look like a good answer.

[Gary Lewis]

I'm not familiar with Acme threaded inserts (and I usually use Heli-coil) but they look like a good answer.

Good idea on the wire brush, but I have the blast cabinet, so here's a before blasting but after 2 hours in Evapo-Rust:

And here's after media-blasting. But the part is back in the Evapo-Rust for the night.

As for the inserts, I'll have to see if the head guy repairs threads. If not I'll explore kits, and the Keensert ones would be my preference. However, the installation tool is about $60 alone on Amazon, and the Keenserts themselves aren't available. Hmmm.

[Gary Lewis]

Good idea on the wire brush, but I have the blast cabinet, so here's a before blasting but after 2 hours in Evapo-Rust:

And here's after media-blasting. But the part is back in the Evapo-Rust for the night.

As for the inserts, I'll have to see if the head guy repairs threads. If not I'll explore kits, and the Keensert ones would be my preference. However, the installation tool is about $60 alone on Amazon, and the Keenserts themselves aren't available. Hmmm.

Was just looking at the head w/the stripped bolt hole and discovered that it has casting # F3TE 6090-JA. That would suggest these are 1993 heads, but it is a 1990 truck. Did they "pre-date" parts? In other words, did they put a 1993 casting number or engineering number on a 1990 part?