WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Oooh. I wanted to see those tranny mount pics! I think mine is broken and I have a new one on hand.

Looks like I am going to install the manual choke. Mine is just not working correctly.

I hooked up the green wire from my new HEI dizzy to the Tach wire and the tach still does not work. I also do not have Instrument panel lights. The blinker, high beam lights, brake light, work fine but none of the night illumination. I ordered a new headlight switch and dimmer switch.

I took the dash out and applied 12v to the area around each bulb on the printed circuit board and they each lit up so it's somewhere else. I replaced all the bulbs and sockets also.

Added this cap yesterday from CL.

Ooop

I didn't realize they didn't post.

I wonder what's up?

Let's try again....

[1986F150Six]

I hooked up the green wire from my new HEI dizzy to the Tach wire and the tach still does not work. I also do not have Instrument panel lights. The blinker, high beam lights, brake light, work fine but none of the night illumination. I ordered a new headlight switch and dimmer switch.

I took the dash out and applied 12v to the area around each bulb on the printed circuit board and they each lit up so it's somewhere else. I replaced all the bulbs and sockets also.

Josh, the green wire just provides a signal to the tachometer. The tachometer must have 12 volts, so I am wondering if the 12 volts is "missing" since your instrument panel lights also do not work unless you use a jump wire?

Since you have the instrument cluster out, why not try an experiment to check the function of the tachometer. You can do this without removing the tachometer, but it might be easier/safer to remove the tachometer. On the back of the tachometer, you will find four posts. Using small jumper wires, connect the HEI tach output wire to the "C" terminal. Ground the "G" terminal if your engine is a 6 cylinder [and ground the "8" terminal, too, if an 8 cylinder]. Finally, connect 12 volts to the "B" terminal and start the engine. If the tachometer works, you must have an electrical fault [power or ground] involving the instrument cluster.

 

[JG2020]

I hooked up the green wire from my new HEI dizzy to the Tach wire and the tach still does not work. I also do not have Instrument panel lights. The blinker, high beam lights, brake light, work fine but none of the night illumination. I ordered a new headlight switch and dimmer switch.

I took the dash out and applied 12v to the area around each bulb on the printed circuit board and they each lit up so it's somewhere else. I replaced all the bulbs and sockets also.

Josh, the green wire just provides a signal to the tachometer. The tachometer must have 12 volts, so I am wondering if the 12 volts is "missing" since your instrument panel lights also do not work unless you use a jump wire?

Since you have the instrument cluster out, why not try an experiment to check the function of the tachometer. You can do this without removing the tachometer, but it might be easier/safer to remove the tachometer. On the back of the tachometer, you will find four posts. Using small jumper wires, connect the HEI tach output wire to the "C" terminal. Ground the "G" terminal if your engine is a 6 cylinder [and ground the "8" terminal, too, if an 8 cylinder]. Finally, connect 12 volts to the "B" terminal and start the engine. If the tachometer works, you must have an electrical fault [power or ground] involving the instrument cluster.

Excellent idea! Raining here today but I will try that.

Thanks!!

[kramttocs]

I hooked up the green wire from my new HEI dizzy to the Tach wire and the tach still does not work. I also do not have Instrument panel lights. The blinker, high beam lights, brake light, work fine but none of the night illumination. I ordered a new headlight switch and dimmer switch.

I took the dash out and applied 12v to the area around each bulb on the printed circuit board and they each lit up so it's somewhere else. I replaced all the bulbs and sockets also.

Josh, the green wire just provides a signal to the tachometer. The tachometer must have 12 volts, so I am wondering if the 12 volts is "missing" since your instrument panel lights also do not work unless you use a jump wire?

Since you have the instrument cluster out, why not try an experiment to check the function of the tachometer. You can do this without removing the tachometer, but it might be easier/safer to remove the tachometer. On the back of the tachometer, you will find four posts. Using small jumper wires, connect the HEI tach output wire to the "C" terminal. Ground the "G" terminal if your engine is a 6 cylinder [and ground the "8" terminal, too, if an 8 cylinder]. Finally, connect 12 volts to the "B" terminal and start the engine. If the tachometer works, you must have an electrical fault [power or ground] involving the instrument cluster.

Give fuses 17 and 18 (vertically inline under the flasher) a look also. 17 is the illumination, 18 the tach.

[1986F150Six]

Give fuses 17 and 18 (vertically inline under the flasher) a look also. 17 is the illumination, 18 the tach.

Thanks, Scott!

[JG2020]

Give fuses 17 and 18 (vertically inline under the flasher) a look also. 17 is the illumination, 18 the tach.

Thanks! I think I did this when I first got the truck but worth a look for sure .

[JG2020]

Thanks! I think I did this when I first got the truck but worth a look for sure .

So after messing with my choke again today I realize I have a YF carb not a YFA. Will this carb even work correctly on this engine?

This is what I have :

http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/pdf/Instructions-Carter_YF.pdf

I messed with the mixture screw also so have to readjust that. I don’t think the choke heat pipe is getting warm enough either since it’s wrapped around the exhaust from the manifold and there is no stove. I guess that was gone with the dual exhaust manifold that was installed .

Thanks!

Josh

 

[1986F150Six]

So after messing with my choke again today I realize I have a YF carb not a YFA. Will this carb even work correctly on this engine?

This is what I have :

http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/pdf/Instructions-Carter_YF.pdf

I messed with the mixture screw also so have to readjust that. I don’t think the choke heat pipe is getting warm enough either since it’s wrapped around the exhaust from the manifold and there is no stove. I guess that was gone with the dual exhaust manifold that was installed .

Thanks!

Josh

It will work just fine! I installed a Carter YF from a 1970 F350 on a Duraspark converted 1986 4.9L. I chose to use a manual choke.

[JG2020]

It will work just fine! I installed a Carter YF from a 1970 F350 on a Duraspark converted 1986 4.9L. I chose to use a manual choke.

Great! So now I need to add the manual choke and adjust the mixture on this one. I found a rebuilt YFA on eBay for $41 so I grabbed it anyway. 

 

 

I think I have spent enough time on the heat choke on this one.  

 

On Tue, Oct 27, 2020 at 1:14 PM 1986F150Six [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Josh, I'm surprised you don't just swap a electric choke cap.

Do you like manual choke?

Or do you see it as an anti-theft system?