Nothing Special Posted October 8, 2020 Share Posted October 8, 2020 Check with Matthew [Dorsai] regarding the cold air intake hose adapter which attaches the hose to the radiator support. He obtained one and has good photos of his extremely original 6 cylinder engine and truck. I have a manual choke on my '71 Bronco. It works better than a non-functional automatic choke. But it's impossible to feather it in and out as throttle position changes and as it warms up. If you've got a working automatic choke I'd count your blessings and keep it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG2020 Posted October 8, 2020 Share Posted October 8, 2020 I have a manual choke on my '71 Bronco. It works better than a non-functional automatic choke. But it's impossible to feather it in and out as throttle position changes and as it warms up. If you've got a working automatic choke I'd count your blessings and keep it.Thanks and true. I’ll see how it behaves now that I set it . On Thu, Oct 8, 2020 at 5:03 PM Nothing Special [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted October 8, 2020 Share Posted October 8, 2020 This is the mod I did on my choke, just had to buy cable.. FWIW... The fix I did on the AOD cable when it broke, used an electrical connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Hi All, Have not posted in a while. Thanks to George I have seatbelts now and can drive legally to shake this truck out more. I was having issues on the first start of the day. Then it would start right up. I discovered the choke was locked in the open position and the adjuster just spun. I set it to closed and locked down the choke cover. Started right up after. This choke just seems to have the copper coil from the manifold to the choke to open it up as it gets warm. The choke was full open about when the water temp reached 180. There is no electrical assist to it. There was no line on the choke cap to line up with the other lines on the housing. Anyone using a manual choke? I had an old international pickup and I loved pulling that knob out. Attaching some pics. I know I have the oil cap hose going to the right place on the cleaner. And the one from the heat flap is correct. Is the other one obsolete now that I have eliminated the computer system? And I assumed the PCV valve hosed went to to the matching open ports on the air cleaner? In some pics I have seen it looks like one of those might go to vacuum on the carb or vacuum tree? Also I bought the air cleaner hose that goes to the fresh air hole behind the grill. I can make it fit and shove it through the rectangular hole but I think I am missing a plastic housing that goes next to radiator. One more thing is the air cleaner has a down spout where a flexible hose looks like it should connect to somwhere on the manifold but there is nothing. Maybe because the previous owner put the dual exhaust manifold on the engine? Sorry for the long post! Thanks, Josh I agree with Bob, keep your electric choke if you can make it work. I got a manual choke carb with my rebuild and I'm regretting it, luckily I'm in central Alabama and I don't really need it much... As for the vacuum hoses, the second hose on the air cleaner needs to be connected(to the vacuum tree should be fine) as it provides the vacuum to the 'heat flap' system. The PCV valve also needs to be connected to the carb or vacuum tree. I haven't got a good picture of the housing for the cold air duct, but I'll take one and post it if you need it, but it will be obvious what you're looking for if you scavenge a 'pick and pull'. As for the hose that connects to the 'downspout' on the snorkel, I've never seen what that should look like 'stock' and would be interested to see it too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JG2020 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 I agree with Bob, keep your electric choke if you can make it work. I got a manual choke carb with my rebuild and I'm regretting it, luckily I'm in central Alabama and I don't really need it much...As for the vacuum hoses, the second hose on the air cleaner needs to be connected(to the vacuum tree should be fine) as it provides the vacuum to the 'heat flap' system.The PCV valve also needs to be connected to the carb or vacuum tree.I haven't got a good picture of the housing for the cold air duct, but I'll take one and post it if you need it, but it will be obvious what you're looking for if you scavenge a 'pick and pull'.As for the hose that connects to the 'downspout' on the snorkel, I've never seen what that should look like 'stock' and would be interested to see it too.Thanks for that info ! Only thing I noticed this morning is the truck starts right up now but is rough until it warms a little. I am guessing the choke is closed all the way and needs a small gap on a cold start. Since my pvc has 2 ports should one go to the vacuum tree and one to the side of the air cleaner where the fiberglass little filter is ? I’ll check the choke out and report back. Thanks,Josh On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 1:25 PM Sac79 [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 I agree with Bob, keep your electric choke if you can make it work. I got a manual choke carb with my rebuild and I'm regretting it, luckily I'm in central Alabama and I don't really need it much... As for the vacuum hoses, the second hose on the air cleaner needs to be connected(to the vacuum tree should be fine) as it provides the vacuum to the 'heat flap' system. The PCV valve also needs to be connected to the carb or vacuum tree. I haven't got a good picture of the housing for the cold air duct, but I'll take one and post it if you need it, but it will be obvious what you're looking for if you scavenge a 'pick and pull'. As for the hose that connects to the 'downspout' on the snorkel, I've never seen what that should look like 'stock' and would be interested to see it too. I know it doesn't help with picturing what stock looks like on the 300 but for a universal approach for anyone running headers, Headman has a "Hedman Hedders Hot Air Kit". Not much to it. Does the 300 have the shroud (heat stove) that goes over the exhaust manifold like the 460 does? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 I know it doesn't help with picturing what stock looks like on the 300 but for a universal approach for anyone running headers, Headman has a "Hedman Hedders Hot Air Kit". Not much to it. Does the 300 have the shroud (heat stove) that goes over the exhaust manifold like the 460 does? Interesting. Yeah, you probably don't even need the housing/adapter. I imagine it would be just as effective if you clamped the end of that hose directly to the header pipe or in our case to one of the EFI manifold collector pipes. LMC sells that 'pre heater duct' for $6.95... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 The large port on the PCV valve goes to your vacuum source(carb or tree), not sure where the top one is suppose to go... Mine was capped when I bought my truck and now I use it to pull the vapors from the charcoal canister. The emissions diagram on your core support should show you, but if you've removed the computer I'm sure you're fine to cap it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 The large port on the PCV valve goes to your vacuum source(carb or tree), not sure where the top one is suppose to go... Mine was capped when I bought my truck and now I use it to pull the vapors from the charcoal canister. The emissions diagram on your core support should show you, but if you've removed the computer I'm sure you're fine to cap it. Mine is run the same way, top to the evap cans, larger to a vacuum port. Now something to know if you just run a vacuum hose from the top port to the canisters you will need to restrict the vacuum or you will have a vacuum leak ask how I know Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 The large port on the PCV valve goes to your vacuum source(carb or tree), not sure where the top one is suppose to go... Mine was capped when I bought my truck and now I use it to pull the vapors from the charcoal canister. The emissions diagram on your core support should show you, but if you've removed the computer I'm sure you're fine to cap it. Mine is run the same way, top to the evap cans, larger to a vacuum port. Now something to know if you just run a vacuum hose from the top port to the canisters you will need to restrict the vacuum or you will have a vacuum leak ask how I know Dave ---- Uh, please tell me more Dave... I was just following your lead and am unaware of your vacuum leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts