WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Same here. I am thinking of taking the premade Holley harness and chopping it up. Since I have this small fuse/relay box I have to figure out a place to mount it under the hood I have a couple relays left over I think I want to have the relay in the box vs bolting the relay to the fender.

Was the whole point of getting the relay box was I hated having three relays hanging off the fender. I just am a little apprehensive of routing the blue fuel pump power wire from the relay down along the frame to the fuel tank. part of me is concerned it might interfere with some other electronics being wired through the auxiliary box as well such as my cb and cb amp.

I did get a lot of hands on experience at work this last couple weeks making looms up with this woven loom material that I like. I got the loom material just wasn't sure how I would do the break outs for break out wires that have to go another direction. Well I think I got that down pat and it looks so nice having that same loom material hiding the pigtails coming out of the sniper.

Im also anxious to sit my NOS aircleaner on the throttlebody and see how it fits. It has locating cutouts for OE aircleaners and it states it fits most stock air cleaners. I don't think I should have a problem as the dimensions of it is basically a 4150 holley which isn't much different in dimensions than a ford 4100 carb.

This is the fuse/relay box I got, wasn't too expensive and it is universal and fairly compact. Holds 6 fuses and 6 relays with 5 relays being your traditional relays and a 6th one being a unique relay that I had originally planned on using for my choke on my summit carb. Have to see if that relay is the same amperage rating as the one supplied via holley then ill just splice the fused circuit through the fuse and to the relay and out to the fuel pump.

You have the same box I do.

That 6th relay is 40A continuous.

Sitting a little crooked there.

[Rusty_S85]

You have the same box I do.

That 6th relay is 40A continuous.

Sitting a little crooked there.

Yep it is, the relay that goes there is supposed to be a small rectangular one. But I figure it would be a good relay to use for my fuel pump if it exceeds the specs of the one the holley kit comes with.

In my mind I am going to run auxiliary wiring for the fuel injection along with the OE wiring and then wrap it all with the woven loom and use cloth tape to seal the ends where possible. Im not sure where I will put the box I am leaning towards on the core support, make a plate to bolt to the core support itself where the driverside knock out plate is for fresh air duct to go. Then I figure I would run the wiring along with OE wire to the driverside fender then break out to the front of the truck to the core support. Im thinking about routing the main power wire to the auxiliary fuse box across the engine the same way. Just not sure what gauge wire I can run Since I wont be bussing all the fuses now using one fuse and relay for the fuel injection I might be able to get by with using a 10ga power wire. Not sure if I can go larger than 10ga. Would have to get some larger gauge wire and see if it will fit my bussed fuse terminals I think 8ga would work but the place I am buying my wire from doesn't offer automotive SLX wire in 8ga closest would be 6ga which I think is too big.

Hopefully running a main power wire like this doesn't introduce interference to fuel injection or anything else I know its a possibility but I think I will be fine as I believe only ignition components have the most likely chance of introducing interference causing problems

I also want to pick up a stock looking mega fuse holder since I am going to upgrade to 3G since I am pushing my limits now without adding fuel injection. I am thinking of mounting my fuse to the plastic fender as there are a bunch of holes already in the fender for OE components such as the vacuum canister for the A/C system which I don't have as I have dealer A/C without vacuum controlled doors.

[kramttocs]

I also want to pick up a stock looking mega fuse holder since I am going to upgrade to 3G since I am pushing my limits now without adding fuel injection. I am thinking of mounting my fuse to the plastic fender as there are a bunch of holes already in the fender for OE components such as the vacuum canister for the A/C system which I don't have as I have dealer A/C without vacuum controlled doors.

I started out trying to stick with a stock look in this regard also but due to space constraints went in a little different direction.

Just for some visual ideas-

I made aluminum platforms that use standoffs in the holes you are referring to so nothing new had to be drilled in the truck. Did this for the large fuse block, fused relay ssVEC box, and vacuum canister on the passenger side. Driver side has the large fuse block, duraspark, and a spot for an ssVEC if ever needed.

Originally I was going to use the diesel platform but it didn't pan out.

I think the later model setup that Gary is using has standoffs so you might be able to use those and make another close to stock looking platform. Or just bolt the stuff right to the fender as another stock look

[Rusty_S85]

I also want to pick up a stock looking mega fuse holder since I am going to upgrade to 3G since I am pushing my limits now without adding fuel injection. I am thinking of mounting my fuse to the plastic fender as there are a bunch of holes already in the fender for OE components such as the vacuum canister for the A/C system which I don't have as I have dealer A/C without vacuum controlled doors.

I started out trying to stick with a stock look in this regard also but due to space constraints went in a little different direction.

Just for some visual ideas-

I made aluminum platforms that use standoffs in the holes you are referring to so nothing new had to be drilled in the truck. Did this for the large fuse block, fused relay ssVEC box, and vacuum canister on the passenger side. Driver side has the large fuse block, duraspark, and a spot for an ssVEC if ever needed.

Originally I was going to use the diesel platform but it didn't pan out.

I think the later model setup that Gary is using has standoffs so you might be able to use those and make another close to stock looking platform. Or just bolt the stuff right to the fender as another stock look

My thing with the box I have, it mounts on its side so I would have to get a different fuse/relay box than what I have to mount like you have shown. It looks nice and that will be something I will keep in mind in the off chance the mega fuse holder wont line up with two pre drilled holes in the fender.

I just have to plan it out because I was thinking on it and the box I have has 6 fuses and 6 relays. Two relays are used for the headlights (high beam/low beam), one relay for my KC driving lights which leave me 2 full size 5 pin relays and 1 midsize 5 pin relay. The midsize relay I will probably use for the main fuel pump relay for my fuel injection setup which brings me to a total of 4 relays used and two open. If I decide to have my York compressor pass through a relay to allow my sniper stealth to provide a ground so my fuel injection can shut the compressor off at wot or in a case of a overheating condition then that leaves me one relay. Then if I want the AC kick I need to use the final relay to provide a ground for when the compressor is on so the IAC will kick up to lessen/prevent a drop in engine speed when the AC comes on which I thought this was a idle up but it doesn't idle the engine up with AC it just helps stop a drop in rpm and surge. Something I will probably go with as my compressor does cycle to get different vent temperatures.

This leaves me no relays available in my box which means if I add a roll bar with a set of 2 or 4 lights I wont have a spot in the box to add the circuits. So I am thinking on the AC circuits if I truly need them with my fuel injection. I do like the thought of having it kick the AC compressor off when at wot, these old York compressors really eat up a lot of power. But at the same time if my engine is making 300hp would I really notice the difference compared to OE stock where my 302 was only making 125hp as the factory rated the 302.

[kramttocs]

My thing with the box I have, it mounts on its side so I would have to get a different fuse/relay box than what I have to mount like you have shown. It looks nice and that will be something I will keep in mind in the off chance the mega fuse holder wont line up with two pre drilled holes in the fender.

I just have to plan it out because I was thinking on it and the box I have has 6 fuses and 6 relays. Two relays are used for the headlights (high beam/low beam), one relay for my KC driving lights which leave me 2 full size 5 pin relays and 1 midsize 5 pin relay. The midsize relay I will probably use for the main fuel pump relay for my fuel injection setup which brings me to a total of 4 relays used and two open. If I decide to have my York compressor pass through a relay to allow my sniper stealth to provide a ground so my fuel injection can shut the compressor off at wot or in a case of a overheating condition then that leaves me one relay. Then if I want the AC kick I need to use the final relay to provide a ground for when the compressor is on so the IAC will kick up to lessen/prevent a drop in engine speed when the AC comes on which I thought this was a idle up but it doesn't idle the engine up with AC it just helps stop a drop in rpm and surge. Something I will probably go with as my compressor does cycle to get different vent temperatures.

This leaves me no relays available in my box which means if I add a roll bar with a set of 2 or 4 lights I wont have a spot in the box to add the circuits. So I am thinking on the AC circuits if I truly need them with my fuel injection. I do like the thought of having it kick the AC compressor off when at wot, these old York compressors really eat up a lot of power. But at the same time if my engine is making 300hp would I really notice the difference compared to OE stock where my 302 was only making 125hp as the factory rated the 302.

If you do decide to change the relay box to have spares, I can highly recommend this one:

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46055/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-31S-000-0-ssVEC/

I am currently using it for:

High

Low

Choke

Blower motor

Rear view camera (not really needed to be on a relay but prefer it this way)

Fog lights

Can't say it looks like stock though with the colored terminals.

[Rusty_S85]

If you do decide to change the relay box to have spares, I can highly recommend this one:

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46055/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-31S-000-0-ssVEC/

I am currently using it for:

High

Low

Choke

Blower motor

Rear view camera (not really needed to be on a relay but prefer it this way)

Fog lights

Can't say it looks like stock though with the colored terminals.

Ill keep that in mind. what drew me to this one is the ATC/ATO fuses it uses which is the same fuses in the truck. But I have to give it a try and see if I can figure out a way to mount it that I like. I already tried and think one possible mount location is make a plate to mount it to my core support on driverside. but I just don't know how that will look.

[kramttocs]

Ill keep that in mind. what drew me to this one is the ATC/ATO fuses it uses which is the same fuses in the truck. But I have to give it a try and see if I can figure out a way to mount it that I like. I already tried and think one possible mount location is make a plate to mount it to my core support on driverside. but I just don't know how that will look.

I don't think it would look bad at all there. That is where I made another aluminum plate and mounted my onboard battery charger. There are several holes in the uprights to bolt the plate to.

Depending upon the thickness of your box you might be able to do the same on the drivers side if you want it less visible (and also less accessible...). That's where a PO had mounted a smaller onboard charger.

[Rusty_S85]

I don't think it would look bad at all there. That is where I made another aluminum plate and mounted my onboard battery charger. There are several holes in the uprights to bolt the plate to.

Depending upon the thickness of your box you might be able to do the same on the drivers side if you want it less visible (and also less accessible...). That's where a PO had mounted a smaller onboard charger.

Currently I have my headlight relays and a power/ground junction block bolted to is the core support on the driver side. I used a couple of existing holes and used a J clip to screw into. That's why I am thinking place the box there as it puts me near a bunch of wiring that I can slip my wiring into as I will be covering all my wiring with the woven loom material. Only thing I am not too crazy about is running a main power cable from the battery across the engine and to the fuse box for power. Currently my wiring runs along the core support but never been happy with this routing it just doesn't look nice. Might be able to come up with a better way with the woven loom material and making a harness that is properly shaped to fit the area.

Im not too big on hiding it, I just want it to look right like it belongs there and not an after thought. That way if I have any problems I can check it and possibly swap relays/fuses to get me home without having to go digging into my truck to get to it. Hiding stuff is good for show vehicles but for a driver, making it look nice while accessible is what I look to.

[Gary Lewis]

Currently I have my headlight relays and a power/ground junction block bolted to is the core support on the driver side. I used a couple of existing holes and used a J clip to screw into. That's why I am thinking place the box there as it puts me near a bunch of wiring that I can slip my wiring into as I will be covering all my wiring with the woven loom material. Only thing I am not too crazy about is running a main power cable from the battery across the engine and to the fuse box for power. Currently my wiring runs along the core support but never been happy with this routing it just doesn't look nice. Might be able to come up with a better way with the woven loom material and making a harness that is properly shaped to fit the area.

Im not too big on hiding it, I just want it to look right like it belongs there and not an after thought. That way if I have any problems I can check it and possibly swap relays/fuses to get me home without having to go digging into my truck to get to it. Hiding stuff is good for show vehicles but for a driver, making it look nice while accessible is what I look to.

Does this look like it belongs? If so, you can read about how I did it here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-tp28014p55302.html

[Rusty_S85]

Does this look like it belongs? If so, you can read about how I did it here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Big-Blue-s-Transformation-tp28014p55302.html

that's kind of how I did mine but its just taped wire and its just hanging there as I didn't have an idea for attachment. Will check the link out though looks like something that would work for me considering I am looking at mounting my auxiliary fuse box on the core support brace in the middle of your photo. Would have to see if I can loop it down and under as the entrance for the fuse box base is on the other side facing away from the radiator.